By Jean Doherty
The origins of vichyssoise are a subject of debate among culinary historians; Julia Child calls it “an American invention”, whereas others observe that “the origin of the soup is questionable in whether it’s genuinely French or an American creation”.
Louis Diat, a chef at the Ritz-Carlton in New York City, is most often credited with its (re)invention. In 1950, Diat told New Yorker magazine: In the summer of 1917, when I had been at the Ritz seven years, I reflected upon the potato and leek soup
of my childhood which my mother and grandmother used to make. I recalled how, during the summer, my older brother and I used to cool it off by pouring in cold milk and how delicious it was. I resolved to make something of the sort for the patrons of the Ritz. The same article explains that the soup was first titled crème vichyssoise glacée – then, after the restaurant’s menu changed from French to English in 1930, cream vichyssoise glacée. Diat named it after Vichy, a town not far from his home town of Montmarault, France. The proper French pronunciation is “vee shee swahzz” and NOT “vee shee swah” because an “e” after the final “s” signals a “zzz” sound.
• 2 leeks, chopped
• 1 onion, chopped
• 2 tablespoons butter or olive oil
• 2 big potatoes chopped
• 2 pints chicken stock
• salt & ground black pepper
• 1 cup heavy whipping cream
Gently cook the chopped leeks and the chopped onion in butter or olive oil until soft, about 10 minutes. Do NOT let them brown. Add the spuds and stock to the saucepan. You may need to add a cup of water to cover, and salt and pepper to taste. Bring to the boil, and simmer very gently for 30 minutes. Puree in a blender or food processor until very smooth. Cool. Gently stir in the cream before serving. Garnish that with chives upon serving … I like to use fresh rosemary, but you choose, you are the chef!
Jean Doherty is the Chef and Owner of Le Patio Restaurant in Wilton Manors (954) 530-4641
