Florida Agenda

Sandwiched between two major metropolises, “The City of Brotherly Love” has long suffered from middle city syndrome, taking a back seat to the “Big Apple’s” larger-than-life personality and D.C.’s historic and political magnetism. Combined with its tarnished reputation as a run-down, crime riddled wasteland, Philadelphia was far off the tourist map for those unwilling to invest in bulletproof vests, crack pipes or combat boots.

But in the last few decades, elected reformists and determined denizens have grabbed Philly by the balls – Giuliani-style – laboring towards widespread gentrification, revitalization and some boomtown sophistication. Flash forward to present day, when Philadelphia triumphs as one of America’s hottest and trendiest cities. Restored historical relics, charming gayborhoods, sprawling parks, a burgeoning cultural and arts scene and  a globally renowned restaurant scene is just the beginning. With homeboy Rocky Balboa’s gloves firmly in hand, Philadelphia is now ready for the big-city boxing ring, eager to compete against neighboring New York City and DC, and finally show us what’s it made of!

Like most urban renewals, the GLBT community rests at the heart and soul of this extreme makeover. Point in case: lesbian power couple, Marcie Turney and Valerie Safran, who have double-handedly revived an entire block along south 13th street, personally owning and operating a half-dozen eclectic restaurants and boutiques. More than creating a cozy village atmosphere, these lovely ladies dish out some of the country’s (yes country’s) best food, with restaurants themed after their global travels.  For example, the menu at Barbuzzo (110 South 13th Street, 215.546.9300, www.barbuzzo.com) was inspired by Marcie and Valerie’s jaunts through Italy, after which Marcie added her modern American flair to classic Italian dishes, resulting in some rather intense food orgasms for her patrons (think: house-made “Pan Seared Gnocchi” with smoked corn, baby tomatoes, wood roasted mushrooms and homemade truffle butter, “Roasted Beet-Goat Cheese Ravioli”, again house-made, with orange zest, balsamic-brown butter and crushed almond amaretti, and “Salted Caramel Budino” with dark chocolate crust, vanilla bean caramel and sea salt.

However, it’s not just 13th street that’s buzzing with frenzied foodies.

Exalted Iron Chef Jose Garces has seven restaurants (and counting) throughout diverse pockets of the city, each one more popular than the next. His latest, J.G. Domestics (2929 Arch St., 215-222-2363, jgdomestic.com) elevates American cooking to the next level, with farm-to-table ingredients from artisanal producers, resulting in mouth-watering dishes like “Barnegat Light Dayboat Scallops” over cauliflower, black truffle, and kumquat. Restaurant impresario Stephen Starr has also revolutionized the restaurant landscape with seventeen individualistic eateries, like the famed, Asian-inspired see-and-be-seen trendsetter, Buddakan (325 Chestnut Street, 215-222-2363, www.buddakan.com). Furthermore, Philly’s wildly popular BYOB craze has enabled the massive student population, and the more money-conscious crowd, to indulge in the restaurant scene while holding tight to the drinking kitty for some late night libations.

Fortunately, locales for after-dinner hedonism are always just around the corner – and often stumbling distance from one another. For the GLBT community, this is especially so within Midtown Village gayborhood, bordered by Chestnut and Pine streets, South 11th and Broad Streets, packed with enough awesome small bars and clubs to land Philadelphia the title “Best U.S. Destination” by LOGO. But regardless of where you begin your pub-crawl in the square, everyone invariably ends up at Woody’s Bar (202 S. 13th Street, 215.545.1893, www.woodysbar.com), a multi-level drink and dance palladium that’s become an institution in gay Philadelphia. There’s just no escaping it!

It’s likely that you’ll want to not just drink in the gayborhood, but stay there, too. The adorable, 24-room boutique Independent Hotel (1234 Locust St., 215.772.1440, theindependenthotel.com) is an adaptive reuse of a Georgian-Revival building on the National Register of Historic Places. The personality-driven rooms boast varying combinations of exposed brick walls, cathedral ceilings, French windows and loft-style furnishings, all technologically savvy and equipped with kitchenettes (as well as curtains that kind of look like the dress my sister wore to my Bar-Mitzvah, but I digress…).

A few blocks opposite the gayborhood, greater Philadelphia teems with historic landmarks and sites like Independence Hall (Chestnut St., between 5th & 6th St.), where the Declaration of Independence was signed, the Liberty Bell Center and our nation’s first hospital, Pennsylvania Hospital (800 Spruce St., 215.829.3270, pennhealth.com/pahosp). The exquisite and enlightening Philadelphia Museum of Art (26th Street and Benjamin Franklin Parkway, 215.763.8100, philamuseum.org) towers over the city, approached by the iconic stairs made famous by Sylvester Stallone’s pit-drenched victory jog (queue: “Gonna Fly Now”). Close by, the recently expanded Rodin Museum (22nd St. & Benjamin Franklin Parkway, 215.763.8100, philamuseum.org) houses the largest collection of the artist’s sculptures and drawings outside of Paris. And a bit further afield, the freakishly fascinating Eastern State Penitentiary (22nd St. & Fairmont Ave., 215.236.3300, easternstate.org) reveals our nation’s twisted history of confinement, psychiatry and punishment. Tours through this mega incarceration experiment, once the most expensive prison  in the world, are spellbinding and downright heart-pounding. Around Halloween time, the Penitentiary transforms into a haunted house extravaganza called Terror Behind the Walls, which is by no means for the faint-hearted. Be prepared to scream at the top of your lungs, drown in anxiety and collapse in fear as the prison walls and ghosts come to life, recalling the terror of the Penitentiary’s 19th century heyday or an average day on the streets in Philadelphia in the late eighties.

For more fun and fabulous Philly 411 go to www.visitphilly.com.

FORT LAUDERDALE, FL – Tourism operators in Fort Lauderdale are hoping that New York’s gay marriage law will bring new business to the sunny Florida city.

“This is a great opportunity,” said Richard Gray, the owner of the Royal Palms Resorts and Spa. The 50-room luxury hotel, whose clients are exclusively gay men, launched the Royal Bliss honeymoon package on Monday.

For $6,400 the Royal Palms will treat guests to a six-day vacation that includes limo pick up at the airport, spa treatments and champagne lunches by the pool.

Some of Gray’s local competitors are also promoting honeymoon packages that celebrate gay marriage in New York. The Preferred Pride package at the Atlantic Resort and Spa offers oceanfront rooms starting at $159 per night.

Hotels are not the only businesses seeking to profit from the hundreds of daily wedding celebrations that began to take place in New York on Sunday.

But Fort Lauderdale is one of the first cities outside New York State, to try to cash in on the Marriage Equality Act.

On Sunday its tourism bureau placed an ad in the style section of the New York Times.

“After Your I Do’s Consider Our Proposal,” it said, encouraging readers to visit the city’s official visitors site, for
the chance to win a free Fort Lauderdale honeymoon.

The move underscores the importance of gay travelers – and New York tourists – to Fort Lauderdale. The city of 165,000 has more than 30 guesthouses that cater to homosexual visitors, and a vibrant gay community centered in Wilton Manors. There is also a large population of retired New Yorkers.

“Most hotels have a romantic package (for same-sex couples) of sorts,” said Jessica Taylor, a spokeswoman for the Greater Fort Lauderdale Convention Center and Visitors Bureau. “With the fact that a large part of our customer base comes from New York, this is a great opportunity.”

Local tourism officials estimate the city hosted 1 million gay travelers in 2010. New York to Fort Lauderdale is the busiest air route in the country with more than 8.5 million passengers per year.

A COMPETITIVE MARKET

Wesley Combs, a market analyst who helps companies to tap into the lesbian, gay, bisexual and transgender (LGBT) market, said that Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Hawaii and San Francisco are also well positioned to provide honeymoons to New York’s newlyweds.
Combs said some hotels in these cities are making the effort to celebrate gay relationships just like they celebrate heterosexual weddings. They picture homosexual couples in ads and teach staff to cater to the needs of LGBT couples, avoiding awkward moments when a same-sex couple checks in.

Combs’s analyst firm, Witeck-Combs Communications, conducted a nationwide survey of gay households with Harris Interactive earlier this year. It found 65 percent of gay and lesbian adults planned to take a leisure trip this summer.

Cities most likely to attract gay honeymooners, Combs said, are those where there is a tolerant atmosphere.

“A simple act of holding a hand for a gay couple can be viewed as inappropriate” he said.

“When you celebrate something as momentous as a honeymoon, you want to make sure you are free to enjoy who you are, without any fear of stress, or any kind of repercussions, because you’re trying to express your love and affection for your significant other.” he said.

By Paul Rubio

Photo: When relaxing in St. Maarten, you too can charter this luxury yacht to sail the high seas.

With modern jetsetters looking beyond commercial cruises and traditional resorts for their next upscale vacation, private yacht charters have upped the ante to provide the ultimate bespoke vacation. Professional yacht charter brokers like Ulla Gotfredsen of “Amazing Charters” (www.amazingcharters.com) function as maritime matchmakers, pairing clients with beautiful boats, seasoned crew and tailored agendas that suit their whims, tastes and personalities. Chartering a crewed yacht is like “creating your own floating luxury boutique hotel,” explains Ulla. The  destinations, the cuisine, the drinks, the hospitality and the activities are all at clients’ discretion.  Plus, amenities like flatscreen TVs, WiFi and iPod docking stations are identical to those in high-end hotels. Ulla navigates us through some key tips for a floating vacation with endless opportunity.

Use a broker: Yacht charter brokers are like free personal shopping experts. Good brokers know the intricacies of the myriad of private yachts available – everything from crew personalities to the ages and styles of the boats to the languages spoken by the polyglot captains (and crew). Best of all, the prices they provide are identical to those of direct bookings (which begin at $300/person/day).

Go all-inclusive: Clients can choose between bareboat and luxury crewed yacht charters. Like the name implies, bareboat charters provide the insured boat only and are recommended for experienced sailors. Luxury crewed charters, on the other h and, are an all-inclusive package of boat, crew, unlimited food, drink

and unabashed pampering.

Pick a start and a  finish: International boating hotspots like the British Virgin Islands and the Mediterranean tend to have the greatest selection of yachts for the start of a sojourn. That said, brokers easily arrange a crewed yacht to begin and end at almost any reasonable location around a desired destination(s).

Find a match: The key to a successful charter experience is the perfect match between the clients and the boat/crew. Some yachts cater to romance, others to families. Some specialize in diving excursions. Others offer kiteboarding and watersport extravaganzas.

Set lofty goals: The best part of a personal charter is the ability to control your vacation. Price is based on the number of days and the yacht itself, not on the activities. Ulla encourages her Caribbean globetrotters to play golf in Anguilla, go shopping in St. Maarten and dine in St. Barth’s – all in the  same day. Likewise, she advises her Mediterranean jetsetters to enjoy morning croissants in France and dinner in Italy. And that’s only on day one!

By Paul Rubio

I once dismissed St. Thomas as nothing more than another homogeneous cruise ship destination chock full o’ fanny-packed freaks, tax-free shopaholics and predatory tourist operators, littering the streets, the mountainsides and bays with their daunting presence. Yet late last year, on my third trip to  the island, I was introduced to St. Thomas’ lesser-known eastern reaches and have since reaped the rewards of taking the road less traveled. My apologies, St. Thomas. I underrated you.

Far beyond the McDonald’s and the neon fanny packs, the sleepy towns in and around the east end have evolved as pockets of seaside glamour, a delicate blend of West Indian flavor and wealthy ex-pat investment. The serenity and laid-back vibe on this part of the island, often lumped as Red Hook Bay, reveal a  gentler, more welcoming side, and an ideal foundation for the US Virgin Island’s most esteemed resort, the Ritz-Carlton, St. Thomas.

Straddling the downy sands and crystalline waters of Great Bay, the Ritz-Carlton, St. Thomas, assumes its rightful role as ambassador to the island’s natural bounties and luxurious offerings. The hotel’s fortitude stems from an atypical equilibrium between traditional West Indian elegance and modern luxury. Even in its most recent renovation last year, the Ritz-Carlton St. Thomas kept a style true to its location and cultural surroundings, forgoing trends of hypermodern, minimalist overhauls. Its barefoot luxury and tropical elegance are constant reminders of the beach’s splendor and the Caribbean’s vibrant colors. Every room ends in a private terrace or balcony, the ideal spot for absorbing the azure serenity and the lush hilltops dotting petite peninsulas. The spa’s outdoor treatment pavilion edges over the bay’s crashing waves, ambushing your senses with everything ocean as the world’s best therapists work magic on your body. The resort’s 53-foot catamaran, Lady Lynsey, sails into the horizon come late afternoon, grabbing a front row seat for the sun’s awe-inspiring descent. Under the twinkle of starry nights, the hotel transforms Grand Bay beach into your own private open-air dining room, with champagne at the ready and a six-course meal at your leisure.

Given its prime waterfront location, the Ritz-Carlton, St. Thomas, teems with opportunity for taking full advantage of the sand and sea. Unlimited use of paddle boats, kayaks, Hobie cats, wind-surfboards and snorkel equipment means you’ll have way too much fun traversing Grand Bay in, under and above the water. Besides her sensational sunset cruise, Lady Lynsey sets sail for neighboring St. John several times per week for a quick evening island hop to indulge in St. John’s awesome dining and bar scene (note: the tuna at Rhumb Lines is epic). Those keener on poolside R & R can enjoy the postcard perfect views from the 125 ft. free-form infinity edge pool, cocktails in hand. And those feeling a bit more private can indulge in the vistas either from the comfort of the Club Lounge (with its full Cruzan Rum Bar and unlimited champagne) or there’s always your private deck.
More than a mere outpost of a high-end chain, the Ritz-Carlton, St. Thomas, discloses a multi-faceted spirit uncommon to the Caribbean. The hotel’s warm “come as you are” philosophy lends to a rare, genuine acceptance of gay travelers, especially in this vastly homophobic region of the world. Though dozens of Caribbean hotels do carry some kind  of “gay-friendly” label (especially in today’s desperate quest for the gay dollar), the Ritz-Carlton, St. Thomas, welcomed the GLBT globetrotter and alternative families long before it was politically correct or corporately mandated. There’s simply no faking the warmth and respect I received when  my partner and I vacationed here.

Eighty-one countries deep into my travels, my time at the Ritz-Carlton, St. Thomas, goes on record as one of the greatest experiences of my travel-writing career. It’s undeniably one of the globe’s most well-rounded resorts, effortlessly fusing dissimilar elements of signature Ritz-Carton decadence with beachfront simplicity, facilitating a complete disconnect from the world at-large and inspiring an unexpected love for the quiet eastern shores of St. Thomas.

To experience the “Caribbean Queen” visit: www.ritzcarlton.com/StThomas or call 1.340.775.3333. There is no passport required for visiting the US Virgin Islands, including St.

Thomas.

By Paul Rubio

Since the birth of the “frequent flyer” in 1981, skepticism has clouded the longevity of airline loyalty programs. Nevertheless, not economic turmoil, terrorism, oil spikes nor bankruptcies have crushed these rewards juggernauts. Frequent flyer programs and their mileage offspring are here to stay. The terms and conditions of earning and using miles, however, are here to change. According to mileage guru and frequent flyer extraordinaire Gary Steiger of www.freefrequentflyermiles.com, collecting and spending frequent flyer miles has become a skillful economic game, but it’s still not difficult to maximize your rewards within the binding constraints of the small print.

Rack ‘em Up!

Inflated credit card bonuses. Rising from the depths of the recession – and swimming in government handouts – banks and airlines have teamed up to offer the most generous credit card signup bonuses in history. A 100,000 British Airways bonus mile promotion from Chase, and Citibank’s similar enticement of 75,000 American Airlines Aadvantage miles, have set a precedent for more outrageous offers to come in late 2011. Search Google to find these amazing credit card offers. Elite status multipliers. Loyalty to an airline eventually equates to a mileage multiplier – and usually a handful of free upgrades. For example, those who reach Gold status on Continental or Platinum on American Airlines (50,000 miles flown in one year) earn a 100% mileage bonus on all miles flown on the respective airline. Promotion Registration. Airlines often tantalize consumers with bonuses on new and specific routes, the use of hotel, car rental and shopping partners, or the completion of a suite of activities during mileage marathons; most of these bonuses require registration. Browse the “bonus offers” section of your chosen airline before booking your flights to find possible extras, or sign up to receive e-mails from mileage gurus like Gary through Websites like www.freefrequentflyermiles. com.

Spend and Save

Off-peak reward discounts. A major perk for traveling during an airline’s offpeak calendar is more value for your miles. US Airways lowers the mileage between the US and Europe from 60,000 to 35,000 round-trip in January and February, while American Airlines lowers it to 40,000 between October 15 and May 15; Free Spirit Mastercard holders can fly to any destination less than 1249 miles away for 5,000 miles round-trip during certain times of the year (Sept., Nov., Dec. and May). Use and abuse partners. Take a closer look at your favorite US-based airline partner reward chart and look for the bargains. While earning miles directly on foreign airlines is diffi cult, partner availability is often high on foreign airlines. One World Alliance airlines charge only 10,000 miles for internal oneway flights within Japan, Peru and Argentina, which normally cost $200-$400 each. Continental Airlines charges only 30,000 miles for a business class round trip ticket between North and South Asia on partners Asiana, Thai Airways and Singapore Airlines. “I just returned from a wonderful hiking trip in Bavaria and Switzerland, flying San Francisco to Munich on Lufthansa and returning from Zurich on Swiss Air in business class, using U.S. Airways miles, though I have never even flown on a U.S. Airways flight,” explains Gary.

Avoid taxes and fees.

It doesn’t really feel like a free ticket when taxes and fees amount to nearly $400.00 per person. British Airways Executive Club and Virgin Flying Club are notorious for charging outlandish taxes and fees with reward tickets. Miles from these two programs are better used with their US-based partners. Avoid miles hording. Miles do not earn interest. They even expire in short timeframes. The inception of the tiered rewards system, like the one used by Delta Airlines, now “makes tickets more expensive in terms of miles, thus devaluing the miles already earned,“ says Gary. Future changes are not likely to work in the consumer’s favor, so spend your miles now!

I  was completely content to have kept a low profile my first night back in West Hollywood. I definitely wanted to save my “mojo” for the mandatory Abbey weekend marathon (drinks and eye candy Friday night, Saturday night and Sunday afternoon), plus I had totally gorged on dinner and could barely move after a five-course extravaganza at The Belvedere at The Peninsula Beverly Hills (www.peninsula.com/belvedere, 310.788.2306).

The Belvedere has been a staple in the L.A. dining scene since the early nineties, serving eclectic, innovative, and flavorful cuisine and receiving a long list of awards for its culinary ingenuity. The service here is impeccable. Career waiters and waitresses provide only the best service. Even the bus boys are refined and professional. And the food? Nothing less than spectacular. Each quality ingredient stimulates the senses, almost mocking the U.S. foodie revolution in which grease and bastardizing sauces have restructured the American conception of “flavor.” So what did I eat? Well to start: the “Saute?ed New Zealand Langoustines” with Chanterelle Mushrooms and Spinach, Russian Fingerling Potato Pure?e, Langoustine Reduction. Next, “Dungeness Crab Chowder” with Carrots, Basil and Dungeness Crab Souffle?; followed by “Golden, Red, and Chioggia Beet Salad” with Tangerines, Honey, Crispy Goat Cheese Pockets, Roasted Almonds and Saba. And for the main course, “Slow Roasted Scottish Loch Duart River Salmon” under Sun-dried Tomato-Yogurt Glaze with Chick Pea Fritter, Fiddlehead Ferns and Espelette Pepper Broth. So, really.

Who could party after a meal like that?

Well, it was now time to work off those zillions of calories, and start my day bright and early with a two-hour hard-core personal training session at The Bunker (www.beverlyhillsweightlosscenter. com, 310.860.0909), a private, innovative workout studio in Beverly Hills. Trainer Adam Ernster may be easy on the eyes, but he’s relentless when it comes to his tailored workouts and helping his A- to D-List clients achieve their goals. Adam’s “paparazzi- proof” clandestine studio makes him a favorite for celebs training for intense roles – like Ben Affleck in The Town, Bruce Willis for Die Hard 4 and Sylvester Stallone for Rambo 4. I admit that I was there for a private vanity party – to treat myself to the gospel of a true fitness guru and learn a fabulous workout routine to fit my crazy travel schedule. Adam left me delightfully crippled from our in-house session and all the wiser for keeping the body beautiful with the most random of objects in hotel rooms around the world!

After my workout, I ventured to the Spa Montage (www.spamontage.com, 310.860.7840) to relax the muscles I had so recently abused! I was scheduled for the signature “Surrender Experience,” which basically means that a highly trained “Surrender Therapist” creates a bespoke treatment based on personal preferences. I arrived an hour early to have the full spa experience and to relax in the co-ed mineral pool and enjoy a bit of time in the steam room. I wanted to treat myself to a deep tissue and, no doubt, my therapist, Rachel, stimulated the deepest of deep tissue. Her hands were absolute magic. I’m talking possibly the best massage I’ve ever had in my travel-writing career. I was also so impressed with the greater hotel product of the Montage Beverly Hills that I decided to book myself a room there on Sunday night to end my weekend in 90210-style.

By early evening, I made my way back to Rodeo Drive for my appointment at the House of Bijan (www.bijan.com, 310.273.644). On a street that defines exclusivity, Bijan stands out as ultra-exclusive. This internationally recognized, by-appointment-only store offers the latest menswear designs for the most discerning shoppers. The color coordinated upstairs private collection is displayed a like masterpiece of contemporary art – even the fresh flowers of these hyper-organized thematic closets match the intended color palate. Throughout his store and window displays, the dearly departed Mr.

Bijan pays homage to the myriad countries and world leaders who have shopped at the House of Bijan.

I was so caught up in the haute couture and perfume-bottle bling that I lost complete track of time during my designated hour. But, alas, the weekend had officially started. I was parched and need a drink! I had a big alcohol-infused night ahead. First up: “O” Lounge, followed by a stroll down Santa Monica and then drinks, boys, drinks, boys, boys, drinks and more drinks at the Abbey. (www.abbeyfoodandbar.com, 310.289-8410).

Return to Brokeback Mountain

By Paul Rubio

Since hitting the big screen that  fateful weekend in 2005, Brokeback Mountain ignited a fiery GLBT love affair (and profound carnal lust) for the cowboys and snow-capped peaks of Wyoming. The romance between Heath Ledger and Jake Gyllenhaal and that unforgettable “spit” scene renewed a lost bond between gay men and the American West. But more than phenomenal acting and a gratuitous soft porn scene, the movie showcased jaw-dropping landscapes that often stole the spotlight from Jake’s baby blues and pronounced crotch bulge.

Though “Brokeback Mountain” is a fictitious place, the raw nature of Wyoming is very much a reality. And while the 1960s homophobia depicted in the film prevails throughout much of Wyoming, tourist-centric Jackson Hole has evolved as a liberal enclave in the land of lassos, grizzlies and western studs. In fact, on the outskirts of Jackson Hole and Grand Teton National Park, Spring Creek Ranch (307.733.8833; www.springcreekranch.com) welcomes the GLBT community to bask in the frivolity and fantasia of one of America’s most beautiful natural playgrounds.

As the name implies, Spring Creek Ranch is indeed a ranch, but don’t expect strapping hunky cattle herders with chaps to interfere with your activities. This is a luxe “dude ranch,” catering to guests seeking a modern “Wild West” experience of horseback rides, toasty fireplaces, chuck wagon dinners, easy access to Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks, and the full range of woodsy, rustic chic cabins and mountain homes offering inspirational panoramas. Spread over one thousand acres of serenity, the ranch’s fabulous accommodations begin at the economical price point of $170/night for “Inn Rooms,” graduating to more spacious “Condominiums” and maxing out at around $2000 +/night for 5000 square foot “Mountain Villas.” Just because it’s super gay friendly doesn’t mean you’ll find rainbow flags in the lobby; it is simply an all-welcoming ranch that has staunchly supported the gay community since its opening day.

With each passing season, both the ranch and the surrounding landscapes assume new personalities, ultimately succumbing to the omnipotence of Mother Nature. Winter’s snow ushers in stark panoramas of white, snow-flaked elk scavenging for remaining plant life, opportunity for exhilarating dog sledding and snowmobiling, and of course award-winning skiing.

In fact, Spring Creek Ranch shares its downhill skiing slopes with uber-exclusive and ultra-expensive Amangani, a private enclave within Spring Creek Ranch. Amangani may garner accolades year after year as a top skiing destination, Wyoming’s colors are in full bloom by summer, when the national parks unveil the most brilliant blue skies and stunning layers of green in picturesque mountain meadows; and resident wildlife frolic and fraternize in what feels like extended summer recess. But more than mountains, buffalo, elk, and wolves, Yellowstone showcases the globe’s most extraordinary geysers and hot springs, facilitating a hydrogeological rapture that’ll blow your mind. Yellowstone’s active volcanic turf is home to half of the world’s geysers, none more predictable than Old Faithful, who shoots his load (of hot water and steam) like clockwork every 91 minutes. The liquid rainbows produced by bacteria living in the Giant Prismatic Spring rank as one of the most remarkable sights I’ve seen in 15 years of professional travel. Further north in the park, Yellowstone’s “Grand Canyon,” wows onlookers, a 900 feet deep, half- a-mile wide demonstration of nature’s sanctioned power and prowess.

I was seventy countries deep into my travels when I finally made it to the American West last July. I had combed the world over to pen my thoughts on Earth’s most exotic, remote and iconic locales, only to discover this pinnacle of beauty right here in America’s backyard. At risk of growing sentimental and even cheesy, I’ll conclude by telling you that a trip to Wyoming’s national parks is fantastically experiential and that Spring Creek Ranch is one place in the American West where you can live out that Brokeback Mountain fantasy. Jake Gyllenhaal won’t be there to guide you, but your own mountain memories will supplant and even triumph over the vivid movie in your mind.

Contrary to the intentional ostentation  on neighboring St. Barths, Anguilla is a  refreshing paragon of understated exclusivity. Long known in small circles as the Caribbean’s seductive secret  hideaway, Anguilla showcases the Caribbean’s most crystalline waters and boasts a judicious selection of unpretentious, upscale accommodations. The island’s most recent addition, Ani Villas (+1.264.497.7888, www.anivillas.com), is  redefining Caribbean luxury and taking a progressive stance in an otherwise homophobic part of the world. Indeed, Ani Villas welcomes the GLBT community with open arms and has already hosted the who’s who of the gay world just five short months after opening!

Distinguished and luxurious, yet humble and simple, the two-villa estate exudes an intrinsic magnificence much like its island host. Perched over the cliffs of magical Little Bay, the two villas function as either mutually exclusive entities or a single, grand estate. Separated as the North and South Villas, the two similar 5-bedroom, 10,000 square-foot luxury homes commingle tropical elegance with Scandinavian design prowess, championing a sleek modernism that feeds off the island’s core elements. The fundamentals of earth, air and water are evidenced by alternating walls of textured raw woods and exceptionally appointed hardwood furnishings, lofty floor to ceiling windows, glass balconies and an open floor plan five stories tall, complemented by tranquil water gardens echoing the sounds of nearby crashing waves. The design draws attention to the azure serenity beyond the cliffs and the striking natural panoramas.

Within the villas, every last detail honors the immaculate taste, sophistication and worldly sagacity of its jet setting developers, Ira and Bonnie Bloom. For example, bedrooms are endowed with one of the world’s most high-end mattresses – Serta Enrapture Double Pillow Top. Furnishing concepts were envisaged on the couple’s intrepid travels through Indonesia, resulting in timeless pieces like the custom-made 1700-pound hard-wood kitchen table, shipped from Asia as an entire tree trunk and the crafted in country. Furthermore, the clean Scandinavian design stems from Bonnie’s Danish heritage and passion for exquisite symmetries.
Indeed, the remarkable interiors are a strong opening act for

the sumptuous exteriors. Engrossed in an amalgamation of desert, tropical and indigenous landscaping, the seductive infinity pools, expansive lounge areas and raised hot tubs (positioned near the cliffs’ edge) channel sweet rapture, capturing the island’s beauty over vast panoramic vantage points. Come nightfall, polished tree stumps and dimly lit tiki torches welcome long nights of stargazing and contemplation.

Directly below the villas, accessible by a short walking trail, the island’s top snorkeling spot teems with marine life. Outdoor enthusiasts will also enjoy the Villa’s private tennis court, mountain biking trails, clubs for use at the neighboring Greg Norman-designed championship golf course and kayaks for exploring Little Bay. And when privacy becomes too confining and the house staff all too familiar, the Caribbean’s most hospitable and gracious island eagerly awaits new explorers. Utilizing the compliment-ary house car, Anguilla’s burgeoning restaurant scene, laid back nightlife, and more of the island’s renowned crystalline waters are mere minutes away. And local boats can take you further afield to places like Sandy Island, a tiny stretch of sand with a restaurant shack and lounge chairs, serving freshly caught crayfish and lobster and Blue Rum Punch, a place that embodies the true island lifestyle.

The two villas can be rented separately or together as an Estate, but require a five-night minimum in either case. Prior to arrival, The villas managers help create a bespoke itinerary for each guest and facilitate desired activities.

For your escape to Ani Villas call 1.264.497.7888 or visit  www.anivillas.com

On my latest trip to Los Angeles, I decided to end my week in the “City of Angels” by going off the beaten path to remind myself that Los Angeles is indeed a coastal city. I don’t think I am alone in easily forgetting that L.A. borders the ocean. Like most, I definitely fall victim to the flash and fab vortex surrounding the Hollywood Hills and never make it to the see the great wide blue of L.A.

Instead of heading to Santa Monica, I journeyed further south to Redondo Beach, a relatively unknown California coastal delight. Redondo is actually a quick, straight shot south from LAX, which makes getting to the airport a hassle-free 20-minute experience, even during rush hour. In addition, this coastal area is a great spot for observing marine mammals.

Though Redondo lacks a five star property, the Portofino Hotel & Yacht Club (www.hotelportofino.com, 310.379-8481) is the next best thing (and they did recently add five new luxury suites as part of their $11 million dollar makeover). The Portofino is cozy, comfortable, and fits in perfectly with this seaside village and marina. The service is impeccable, the vibe totally relaxed. Half of the rooms face the rocky Pacific waterfront, inhabited by a gregarious colony of wild California sea lions. The hotel’s ocean-inspired lobby is modern and whimsical, continuing the maritime theme of surrounding King Harbor and the gorgeous yachts lining the marina.

As in most beach towns, the best part of Redondo Beach is old-fashioned fun in the sun. The Portofino provides complimentary bicycles to cycle along the beachfront and to enjoy the Strand Bike Path, which runs from Redondo Beach all the way to the Pacific Palisades. If you bike north, you’ll run into the Hermosa and Manhattan beaches, respectively, two of California’s surfing hotspots.

If your timing is right, it’s possible to witness the Gray Whale migration. Several fishing boats from the local pier double as whale watching excursions during the migration period. The migration ends now in late April, but will begin once again in December (provided the Japan’s toxic release into the ocean doesn’t kill the whales).

Another great outdoor adventure near Redondo is hiking in the Palos Verdes Peninsula and meandering through the majestic tidal pools of Malaga Cove. Hiking rapture can also be achieved on a rugged trail in search of The Dominator. The Dominator was a Greek freighter that crashed on the cliffs of Palos Verdes in 1961. The remains of the Dominator still exist and can be accessed from hiking trails originating on Paseo del Mar. If you are in to golf and want to support the Tea Party Comb-over movement, you can visit the 18 hole, par 71 Trump National Golf Course (www.trumpnationallosangeles.com), which is open to the public.

Furthermore, Redondo has a great dining scene. The Portofino’s restaurant, BALEEN Los Angeles (www.hotel portofino.com, 877-BaleenLA), is nationally renowned for its seafood-centric menu and its mesmerizing waterfront views. It attracts sizeable crowds from the greater L.A. area for an evening of seaside escapism. My entrée at BALEEN, the “Cane Sugar-Seared Ahi Tuna” with coconut rice, spicy papaya salad and, avocado/wasabi mousse, was nothing short of spectacular.

Close by, Casa Pulido is a neighborhood institution that has been run by the Pulido family for years. It’s a dive of a Mexican joint, but a must visit stop for a taste of Old Redondo Beach. In terms of nightlife, Redondo Beach doesn’t have any, nightlife scene, but Pier Avenue in Hermosa Beach (near the Portifino) has bars ranging from surfer drives to trendy cocktail lounges. For a gay fix, however, you gotta head west back into West Hollywood!

Paul Rubio, LGBT Travel writer, has authored numerous articles and an award winning book Out Traveler: South Florida. Paul can be reached at editor@FloridaAgenda.com

Relaxing in Downtown Los Angeles

By PAUL RUBIO

Up until a few years ago, Downtown Los Angeles was the city’s Achilles Heel, an urban wasteland riddled with crime and grime. But thanks to large-scale investment and optimistic intervention, downtown is now in the process of an Extreme Makeover, emerging as a rejuvenated princess in the land of glitz and glamor, ready to take on the world with a new attitude. The anchor of this redux? The Staples Center (home of the L.A. Lakers) and the surrounding L.A. LIVE area, which has attracted the likes of the Ritz-Carlton, loft developers and restaurateurs looking to create a new type of L.A. experience.

Exiting the 110 freeway, downtown’s nips and tucks are immediately obvious. Eclectic coffee shops have replaced crack houses, funky lofts have moved in where sketchy, abandoned towers once stood. I had not ventured to downtown L.A. in a decade, simply because I had no reason to! But it was already clear, I now had much to discover.
I pulled into the driveway of The Ritz-Carlton, Los Angeles, where a number of helpful valet attendants showered me with lots of attention and assistance (www.ritzcarlton.com/en/Properties/LosAngeles, 213.743.8800). The lobby of the Ritz was small and simple, the check-in process short. Like some of Tokyo and Shanghai’s greatest hotels, the focus at the Ritz-Carlton Los Angeles lies in the room product and the stunning panoramas from the upper floors, which actually house the hotel. In fact, the 123-room Ritz-Carlton begins on the 22nd floor and ends on the 26th, with the neighboring JW Marriott hotel comprising the lower levels and then spilling over to a second building. The Ritz’s speedy elevators lead directly to floor 22 and to the floors with amenities available exclusively to Ritz-Carlton guests (like the rooftop pool, the 26th floor gym, and the Club Lounge).

The rooms parlay a remarkable evolution of the Ritz-Carlton brand, with a contemporary yet refined interior design. I had seen the Ritz truly break out of its traditional comfort zone on my travels to Tokyo, Hong Kong, and Barcelona; it was refreshing to see this new product style implemented here on the home front. The exceptionally well-appointed furnishings boast clean symmetries, channeling attention towards the wall-to-wall panoramic window, lined with a sumptuous day bed, peering over the Hollywood Hills and greater Los Angeles. The mega bathrooms are separated into three sections, most notably a wet area where a rain shower and oversized Jacuzzi sit side by side, encased in glass, with perfect views of L.A.

It was one of those rare times I was so captivated by my hotel room, I suddenly lost the desire to do anything but enjoy an inspiring read or a glass of champagne in my temporary Zen den and forget the world around me. So, I went up one floor to the Club Lounge with the simple task of getting that glass of champagne. But when I got there, I was utterly and completely seduced by my surroundings. The Club Lounge was big and beautiful, teeming with celebrities, famous basketball players, and decorated with elaborate food presentations that quickly instigated pangs of hunger. So, it was now official.  I gave myself the rest of the day off to simply enjoy haute living at the Ritz-Carlton Los Angeles’ Club lounge – to eat far too many goat cheese stuffed peppers, sample some fine imported cheeses and French macaroons, eavesdrop on the A-list, chat with the Lakers’ competition, relish in birds-eye views of the city tableside telescopes and, of course, indulge in one too many glasses of champagne! After several weeks on the road, this good life at The Ritz-Carlton, Los Angeles, was no doubt a divine intervention.

I began the following morning with a swim on the hotel’s rooftop pool and an extended hot tub session to combat the chilly breeze. I then met friends
for lunch at Kerry Simon’s highly acclaimed L.A. Market Restaurant (www.lalive.com/eat/lamarket, 213.743.8800), located on the lobby level of the adjacent JW Marriot. Simon’s fresh comfort creations, like my “LA Market Green Salad” with crispy shallots, shaved asparagus, poached organic egg and topped with rosemary grilled shrimp, epitomize the farm to table trends of modern American cooking.

A few cocktails later, it was an afternoon of much deserved R &R at the Ritz’s first class spa pampering palace.

The sparkling snow-white spa provides the full throttle fabulous spa experience. The vanguard relaxation room boasts oversized reclining chairs and frilly, draped couches for delicious tranquility before and after treatments. The Eucalyptus steam room facilitates the ultimate in stress relief. The treatment rooms are stylish and cozy, unlike the stale, cosmetology office-types I’ve seen in way too many hotels. Indeed, I was ready to conquer the world after my 80-minute deep tissue and definitely ready to venture out into greater L.A.!

Paul Rubio, LGBT Travel writer, has authored numerous articles and an award winning book Out Traveler: South Florida. Paul can be reached at editor@FloridaAgenda.com