Photo Right: A busy and pleasant night at the Faneuil Hall Marketplace

There was a time when Boston was one of the friendliest gay towns in America. Politicians mixed with school teachers, librarians and flight attendants—each in his uniform of choice and each socializing and melding. If not exactly uninhibited—for Boston has always had its form of quiet reserve—at the very least, it was happy.

Now that the major citywide construction project known as the Big Dig has been completed, and traffic and noise is under control, Boston has taken on a new, quiet conceit which is refined, proper and sophisticated. While this may work in a fine restaurant, hotel or art museum, it’s not exactly what the hot vacationing gay guy wants to discover while looking for a weekend of fun.

Of course, Boston is an architectural treat, reeking in history and tradition, with an incredibly efficient underground transit system that makes traveling between neighborhoods incredibly simple and an economic joy. Must sees: Faneuil Hall Marketplace (incorporating Quincy Market) is a combo eatery, tourist trap, and historic landmark, located at 1 U.S. 1; the Museum of Fine Arts (465 Huntington Ave.) has major collections of French impressionists and post-impressionists, including Gauguin, Manet, Renoir, Degas, Monet, Van Gogh, and Cézanne; the State House (206 Washington St.), built in 1713, is the old surviving public building in Boston (Paul Revere’s house is the oldest standing building, constructed in 1680); and the John F. Kennedy Presidential Library and Museum (220 Morrissey Blvd.), designed by architect I. M. Pei, and the official repository of the Kennedy papers as well as unpublished manuscripts by Ernest Hemingway.

Boston is a network of neighborhoods that line the Charles River and Dorchester Bay. Each section has its own unique charm with great Italian restaurants in the North end, Fenway Park in Kenmore Square (Go Red Sox!), and Irish Pubs to the South. Like London, Boston is a fusion of old traditions and new arrivals that make it the cultural hub it is today.

When staying in Boston, your hotel options are nearly limitless. The time-honored choice is the Taj Boston (15 Arlington St.), which was originally built as the first U.S. branch of the Ritz-Carlton Hotel chain in 1927. Although it’s luxury at its finest, it is not nearly as much fun as staying at the Chandler Inn Hotel (26 Chandler St. at Berkeley St.) which is connected to the Fritz, South Boston’s gay sports bar. Expect to see lots of suits, ties and Ralph Lauren shirts in this crowd.

For the stand-and-pose junkies, try the nearby Club Café (209 Columbus Ave. at Clarendon St.). Go to the Club and get three bars in one— the Main Bar and Lounge out front, the Back Room, which is where the regulars congregate to dance, and the Napoleon Room Piano Bar— which is exactly what you’d expect but less. The Club has been around for 27 years, and while it may not be Cheers, it does have its loyal clientele.

The Eagle (520 Tremont St. at Dwight St.) is a one-room monument to its former self. No longer the denizen of leather and whips, this version of the Eagle chain is attempting to reinvent itself as something that’s not quite crystalized into earthenware. The bears in Boston hit the North End at The Alley (14 Pi Alley at Court Sq.). Here again, it’s a one-room windowless collection of smells and stains the less you know about the better.

In Boston, you’re safer sticking to cultural events, and saving playtime for a visit to Provincetown, Cape Cod’s gift to equality.

Robert Elias Deaton is a world-traveling epicure who enjoys the finer things in life.

Portland, Oregon, is the third most populated city in the Pacific Northwest (after Seattle and Vancouver). Its warm, dry summers and wet, cold winters are perfect for growing roses, and grow roses they do. The 4.8 acre International Rose Test Garden (850 SW Rose Garden Way) is world renowned and stands in the shadow of Mount Hood.

The garden c o n t a i n s over 7,000 roses from 550 varieties, making it one of the most i m p r e s s i v e displays of the woody p e r e n n i a l in the entire United States. Roses blossom in this vibrant city through Halloween, so travel now before the rainy season puts an end to your fun.

The most convenient flights from Fort Lauderdale airport to Portland are on United Airlines that makes a brief pit stop in Houston on the way. Current economy fares run around $320 round-trip. The Red Line of the Tri-Met Rail System can transport you directly in the walking-friendly downtown area were a rental car is not required.

While Portland has its share of luxury hotels and budget bed-and-breakfasts, our favorite place to stay has always been The Nines (525 SW Morrison St.), an exclusive inn situated in the historic Meier & Frank Building, built in 1909 as the largest department store west of the Mississippi. The structure currently houses a branch of the Macy’s Department Store chain on the lower levels with the top nine floors remodeled as the 330-room The Nines Hotel.

Play, relax, and luxuriate in the sophisticated elegance of this luxury hotel where kingbedded rooms start at $199.

The Nines is conveniently located across from Pioneer Courthouse Square, a public space known as Portland’s Living Room, so popular is this bricked plaza. It’s also the site of the MAX Light Rail system, where the Red, Blue, Green, and Yellow lines converge, and can get you anywhere in the city within a few minutes, including to the array of gay clubs this illusive city has to offer.

The hottest dance club in town at the moment is C.C. Slaughters (219 NW Davis St.- – 1 block west of the MAX Red & Blue line stop on 1st Ave, Old Town), with a large packed dance floor, adjoining show lounge, and no cover charge ever. Sunday is swimsuit night; Wednesday it’s time for underwear. If you need to be more undressed than that, head over to Silverado (318 SW 3rd Ave.—Oak/SW 1st Ave. MAX station).

The Eagle Portland (835 N Lombard St.) follows the theme of most Eagle bars appealing to leather men and the boys who love them. Stop by Thursday and play naked billiards. That’s the one with the balls and the cue stick. At the other end of the club scene, Portland’s elegant piano bar and lounge is Hobo’s (120 NW 3rd Ave.) located in Old Town. The dinner menu is a diverse affair with a delectable Blackened Cold-Water Salmon ($19) that is seared and roasted with a cucumber wasabi tarter sauce that will clear your sinuses if not your wallet. Jim Blackburn is on the piano Wednesday through Sunday beginning at 8 p.m.

Hobo’s is also the starting location for the Shanghai Underground Tour, (503-622-4798) an hour-and-a-half guided exploration of the brick-arched tunnels that criss-cross under the streets of Old Town Portland (formerly the city’s Old North End), where white slavery was rampant during the early 1900s. Tours begin at 6:30 p.m., with extra tours scheduled for Halloween. An underbelly never looked so fascinating.

Way back in the mid-seventies, which seems like a lifetime ago, we would go to the gaslight district in downtown San Diego for the sailors who hung out there in all the saloons, tattoo emporiums, porn shops and massage parlors that populated the area. It was a run-down fun place in those days, when the city itself was known for its military population, and its proximity to Tijuana, Mexico.

Now the area has been totally gentrified, is officially called the Gaslamp Quarter Historic District, and is a colorful and eclectic assortment of restaurants, bars, shops, lounges and live music venues, that is a must-see for any visit to the second largest city in California. Yes, there are gas lights on the streets, as well as historical art deco buildings that take you back to the turn-ofthe-( last)-century.

Two things you should know about S.D. right from the start: A) you’ll need a rental car. The gay areas and sights are strung throughout the town from one end to the other. B) There are three main gayborhoods here: Hillcrest, University Heights, and North Park.

Hillcrest is really the center of all things gay, bordered on the north by University Heights and the East by North Park. Stroll along University Avenue to get a feel for the place, with its coffee shops, stores, and assorted bistros.

Rich’s San Diego (1051 University Ave. between 10th and Vermont) is the oldest and most popular dance club in the city. We also love the Brass Rail (3796 5th Ave. at Robinson) with its Latino base and an outside patio, which allows you to take a breather as you people-watch out front. For those who like their action on the dirty side, The Loft (3610 5th Ave. at Brookes) is the local dive where hankypanky and stiff drinks are the order of the night.

While in the Hillcrest area, don’t miss a stop at Hash House a Go Go (3628 5th Ave.). It’s our favorite big-portion restaurant, and a legend for breakfast according to locals who have made it an institution. Our favorite item on the menu is the Hash Cobb Salad, served later in the day.

Balboa Park, which borders Hillcrest on the South, is a 1,200-acre bounty of hiking and biking, museums, historic expositions buildings, and the world-famous San Diego Zoo (home of the Giant Pandas). Get to it via public transportation or the Cabrillo Freeway. Go early and spend all day exploring this green haven. For the rougher side of gay San Diego, head to North Park, where you’ll find the only real leather bar in town. The San Diego Eagle (3040 Park Way at Ray Street—one block parallel to University) is small, sexy and exactly what you’d expect, which is a good thing. At Pecs (2046 University Ave. at Alabama), there’s no indication you’re at a gay club. Just look for the “Open” sign and march right in to find the hottest cruising in all of San Diego. Want to find a date? This is the place.

If you’re young and posing is your thing, head immediately to Bourbon Street in University Heights (4612 Park Blvd. at Madison). There’s something adorable about watching 22-yearolds trying to look cool. Okay, maybe it’s not so adorable, but this is the place to find it in any case. Regardless of what turns you on, this land of sunshine 300 days-a-year has a bit of it available somewhere or other. San Diego— guaranteed fun.

Romance is in the air in Paris—from the architecture to the food to the sexy, exciting people that strut down the rues as if on the catwalk of life. Discovering the real Gay Paris is an exciting event that will leave you charged, re-energized and smiling ear to- ear.

Your adventure begins and ends at L’Open Café (17 Rue des Archives), a bar that doubles as an eatery, starting at 11:30 in the morning. This is the place to people-watch early in the day, and late at night. It’s at the intersection of Rue des Archives and Rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie, in the heart of the gayborhood, Le Marais. The closest Metro to this point is the Hôtel de Ville station. Enjoy some food, the passing view, and a few drinks, and get set to bar crawl the entire night away.

The nearest bar to L’Open Café is Le Cox (15 Rue des Archives). This small and smelly beer dive has the distinction of having the longest Happy Hour in the area (from 6-9 p.m.). Liquor up on the cheap and then keep on moving.

Should you need a full-course dinner during your pub crawl, do not hesitate to try the relatively new Café Voulez-Vous (18 Rue du Temple). The restaurant is run by the legendary Thibault Jardon, who ran the Les Bains Douches before it shut down, and was the artistic director of the iconic Queen nightclub on the Champs Elysée (now a straight club.)

One of our favorite hangouts in the neighborhood has long been the Banana Café (13 Rue de la Ferronnerie). Here you’ll find the Banana Boys, go-go dancers so smooth they’ve either just come from a bikini wax or have genetic hair loss. Either way, they are young and beautiful and prancing for your benefit on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday nights. The rest of the week, the Banana is a cute local hangout with a tropical theme.

Should you pass the Eagle (33 Rue des Lombards), forget any preconceived notion you might have of the leather bars that populate so many gay areas around in globe. In Paris, the Eagle is as homogenized as whole milk, and is more a flashy dance bar with house music and expensive drinks.

If a place packed with hot bodies, rubbing sweat to sweat is your scene, look no further than Freedj (35 Rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie), the popular club of choice this season for the pretty boys who are peaking in both beauty and muscle. If you’re unfortunate enough to be doing neither, you’ll get the once-over at the door and may or may not gain admission—it’s that kind of place.

Far less picky, and far more friendly is the Duplex (25 Rue Michel Le Comte). The attitude is laid-back, welcoming, and popular for that very reason, which, for many, is quite enough, thank you.

If you are of a certain age, and still feel the need to mix and match in open competition, there is always either Alex’s (2 Rue de Marivaux) or MicMan Bar (24 Rue Geoffroy l’Angevi)—two places where mature is in. If size matters, the largest gay dance palace is Raidd (23 Rue du Temple), where busy, loud and pricey is a way of life. Great music is always on tap here, so prepare to hit the floor keeping pace with the crowd.

Finally, Daddies aren’t forgotten completely in Paris. Your spot of choice is Bear’s (6 Rue des Lombards), a honey pot for bears, chubbies, Daddies, and those who love them. Vive la difference!

PARIS Part I – The Moveable Feast

Robert Elias Deaton is a world-traveling epicure who enjoys the finer things.

“If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a young man, then wherever you go for the rest of your life, it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast.” Or so wrote Ernest Hemingway. Then again, Papa Hemingway killed himself, proving, we suppose, that an occasional refresher visit to Paris is never out of place.

As with most things in life, the gays among us have a special gift for appreciating art, culture, rudeness, and depravation. And Paris has all four in abundance. Fortunately, the Parisians, in their love of all things flamboyant, have grouped the homosexual community mainly in an area known as Le Marais (”The Swamp”), in the 3rd and 4th arrondissements.

The average vacationer in Paris will make the rounds of the standard top ten must-sees: Musée du Louvre (1st arrondissement– Porte des Lions, Galerie du Carrousel, or Pyramid entrances), the world-famous museum situated in a French palace housing the Mona Lisa and the Venus de Milo; Notre Dame Cathedral (Place du Parvis de Notre Dame, 4th arrondissement), the most architecturally stunning Gothic Cathedral in the world; Eiffel Tower (Champ de Mars in the 7th arrondissement [midwest Paris]), the iconic symbol of Paris for much of the world; Musée d’Orsay (1 Rue de la Legion d’Honneur, 7th arrondissement), a bright and airy gallery housing the largest collection of painting, sculpture, and decorative objects produced between 1848-1914; Sorbonne University which forms the historic soul of the Latin Quarter (Place du Sorbonne, 5th arrondissement), the center of scholarly pursuits in the city; the Arc de Triomphe which crowns the end of the Champs-Elysées (Place Charles de Gaulle, 8th arrondissement), the most famous shopping street in all of Paris; the Centre Georges Pompidou (Place Georges Pompidou, 4th arrondissement), a monstrous architectural anomaly that attracts street performers, art historians and students using its library; Montmartre (18th arrondissement), a neighborhood with its art-drenched history and charming, village-like streets located at the summit of Paris with its beautiful Sacre Coeur Basilica; the Père Lachaise (Rue de Repos, “Porte du Répos,” 20th arrondissement); according to an old lover of mine, it is the most hauntingly lovely cemetery in the world, where Chopin, Collette, Marcel Proust, and Jim Morrison are laid to rest; and a Boat Tour up the Seine (rhymes with “den”) River, the equivalent of taking a gondola in Venice, but on a larger scale.

There are two airports in Paris—Charles de Gaulle and Orly, with CDG the airport of choice since American Airlines and Air France fly non-stop from Miami. (Trivia point: In the current economic climate, there are no non-stop first class flights from either Miami or Fort Lauderdale.) All business-class airline, OpenSkies, flies from Newark into Orly, but is of little interest to those of us down here in the hurricane zone.

There are many reasonably-priced hotels (and many, many more unreasonably priced ones) in the city. But for high camp, there is nothing that outdoes the Hôtel du 7ème Art (20 Rue Saint Paul, 4th arrondissement). A twin-bedded room with private bath at the Hôtel du 7ème Art will set you back 75 euros per night. It’s in the center of Marias, it reeks with romance thanks to the posters from classic American throughout the place, and you’re guaranteed to hear a recording of Frank Sinatra singing “I Love Paris” at least ten times a day. “We’re with Frank on this one.”

Next week, we’ll cover the waterfront and the hottest clubs in town. Jusqu’alors.

PARIS Part 2- After Midnight in the City of Lights

It’s taken a while, but Philadelphia, the largest city in Pennsylvania, is finally one of the gay friendliest spots in the nation. For over two decades, the city that hugs the Delaware and Schuylkill rivers has been struggling with an identity problem and population loss, which was finally halted with a large influx of gays. In a pattern we’ve seen worked successfully in Fort Lauderdale and Wilton Manors locally, the homosexual population has moved in, gentrified the area, and boosted real estate prices and the quality of life in the process. Philadelphia, in turn, has stretched out its historical arms and embraced the LGBT movement.

No matter what kind of amusement you ultimately want, there is a little of it somewhere in Philly. Philadelphia has more outdoor sculptures than any city in America, and the largest landscaped urban park in the world—Fairmount Park—that covers 9,200 acres, with its Georgian country mansions and 100 miles of trails, many unchanged since Revolutionary times. It also has the fantastic Philadelphia Museum of Art (26th St. and the Parkway), with its Van Gogh Vase with Twelve Sunflowers, and, yes, the statue of Rocky Balboa (from “Rocky” film fame).

The gay club scene in Philadelphia is nearly as historic as the city itself. Back in the 20s, there was an active established gay population of writers, artists, and performers who quietly went about seducing the young sailors who magically found their way to 243 S Camac St. All these years later, it’s still a gay club, now going under name Tavern on Camac. In addition to being the oldest continuously operating gay bar in town, it has the distinction of having the priciest drinks—$4.50 for a bottle of domestic beer—the best piano bar around PA, and the tiniest dance floor (upstairs) we’ve ever seen.

Leather studs call The Bike Stop (206 S Quince St.) home. Mondays the costume of choice is jocks straps; Wednesdays it’s underwear. Everyday it’s hot. For those more interested in cute young things, hot music and dancing, go nowhere else but Voyeur (1221 Saint James St. between 13th & 12th). There’s a bit of the haught with crystal chandeliers and red velvet in this three story dance palace that stays open to 3 a.m. There is a hefty cover charge that’s worth every penny if house music is your thing late at night.

Food in Philly offers far more than cheesesteaks and soft pretzels. Whether midday or late night, give Knock (225 S 12th St.) a try. This is an LGBT hangout, but even if it weren’t, we’d recommend it for the décor (mahogany paneling and grand piano lend a solid sophistication) and food (creative New American cuisine). Their Seared Salmon Oscar ($25) is worth a visit alone. People watch as you eat fresh salmon fillet, seared and oven roasted, topped with seasoned crab meat and cilantro-lime butter.

You may have to search for the Cucina Zapata roach coach, which travels the streets around 31st and Ludlow by the University of Pennsylvania. The world’s only Captain Crunch Talapia Taco is worthy of a special trip. $8 for three tacos and two bottles of water seems like a heavenly intervention, and it likely is.

Oh, and make an effort to cruise past Lord & Taylor department store at noon, to stand in front of the mighty eagle sculpture and hear a live performance of the one-time Wanamaker Department store pipe organ: It will take you back to a gentle time, of hats and gloves and doors opened with respect, not slammed in one’s face. A special town indeed!

READ PART I HERE:  Philadelphia – Brotherly Love, Steak Sandwiches, and Soft Pretzels

Robert Elias Deaton is a world-traveling epicure who enjoys the finer things in life.

When Philadelphia was nicknamed the City of Brotherly Love, they were originally speaking of Quakers, not gays. However, all that has changed within the past six years as this town of the Liberty Bell, Independence Hall, and the Betsy Ross House has evolved into a rather gay-hip collection of clubs, B&Bs, restaurants, and gyms.

To keep your history straight and your nightlife gay, the first thing you need to know about Philly is that many of the yellow-brick roads here are cobblestone, particularly in the historical district located in the Olde City, a square mile officially bordered by Race, South, Sixth, and Front Streets—or the Delaware River if you’re reading your guide map and walk too far East.

All the historical must-sees can easily be toured during a one-day outing, with locals dressed as town criers and the like to guide you down the appropriate alleys. Do not miss checking out this part of town, for there is something very humbling and essential in discovering the Birthplace of America for yourself. You don’t have to be gay to be proud in this section of town.

For the real fun, travel toward Washington Square West, home to the gayborhood and, as you might expect, the nightlife— ranging from cultured to sleazy and all within easy walking distance. This is particularly true if you lodge the bod in a place called the Independent Hotel (1234 Locust St., 215-772-1440), a 24- room boutique hotel which is not only on the National Register of Historical Places, it’s been given a total fluff-and-fold for comfort and style with rooms starting at $239.

The fitness center of choice is located nearby. More than just a workout gem, the 12th Street Gym (204 S 12th St., 215-985-4092) is 60,000 square feet of cruisy inspiration, with all the expected equipment and more. For tips on form, check in with baby Joe Burke, our recommended personal trainer.

For good local eats and plenty of it, try Lolita (106 S 13th St., 215-546-7100), owned by dolls and partners Valerie Safran and Marcie Turney. The ladies know their business and pack this place right out the front door. It’s a bring-your-own-tequila kinda place. They’ll supply the pitcher of fresh-squeezed margarita mixes (watermelon and wild mint) and you supply the hootch, which is available a block away at Premium Collection Wine & Spirits (1218 Chestnut St., 215-560–4380).

The girls also own Bindi (105 S 13th St., 215- 922-6061), the Indian restaurant across the street, as well as the one-stop-convenience shop Grocery and homewares store Open House next door.

After you roll out with full bellies and a smile on your lips, a wonderful local place to peoplewatch and experience Philly at its most literate is Giovanni’s Room (345 S 12th St., 215-923- 2960), the oldest gay bookstore in the country.

This particular place has the distinction of having been a gay and lesbian refuge during a time when the LGBT community was not so welcome in the Birthplace of America. Even if it didn’t have 7,000 books on its shelves— many of which you’ll find nowhere else—this bookstore is alive with our history. Get kissed by one of the staff—which, quite frankly is not so tough—and you’ll continue a love which began with Walt Whitman and was passed on to Edward Carpenter to E.M. Forster to Allen Ginsberg, then to Bern Boyle, one of the founders of Giovanni’s Room.

Next week, we’ll give you the inside scoop on the real Philly nightlife, and the basement you won’t want to miss.

READ PART 2 HERE: PHILADELPHIA II -Betsy Ross Would Be Pleased

Robert Elias Deaton is a world-traveling epicure who enjoys the finer things in life.

There are 125 or so brewers in Belgium, a country the size of Maryland. Now, we know this fact because we’ve visited, oh, a good 20 or so of these establishments where the beer and ale samples run freely. It was all very righteous, we assure you, since we were touring Trappist, Cistercian, and Benedictine monasteries when we happened upon the occasional brew. Our favorite was the Trappist Abbey of Saint Sixtus of Westvleteren, near Belgium’s border with France, where the monks produce three different beers. Each brand has a different color cap (green, blue and our favorite yellow), which also contains all the prudent information about the brew, since the bottles feature no other labeling. Clever monks.

It is, of course, the same with chocolates. Slightly less ecclesiastical in nature perhaps, but no less enjoyable. We discovered, while touring the capital city of Brussels, that the country annually produces 172,000 tons of chocolate, and nearly a ton of it is given away free on tours of factories and chocolate shops. Of these, we recommend the chocolate-making demos given each Saturday and Sunday at 4 p.m. at La Maison des Maîtres Chocolatiers Belges (Grand Place 4, 2-888- 6620). How can you not love a country that gives away candy?

Another tasty bit of trivia: Belgium has more castles per square mile than any other place in the world. Of the lot, our favorite is the Royal Palace (Place des Palais, 2-552-2020), the official digs of King Albert II and Queen Paola (though the pair actually live in a chateau on the grounds of the Royal Castle of Laeken). It is just as well, since the royals fling open the doors and allow mere mortals to haunt the halls from July 24 through September 9.

For all the hundreds of palace rooms, you would think that finding a place to stay in Belgium would be a simpler task than it is. The bed-andbreakfasts tend to fill up quickly (having only one or two rooms apiece), and the classier hotels will cost you your first-born child, or some amount that seems as pricey. Fortunately, there’s a nice middle ground in the form of the Royal Windsor Hotel Grand Place (5-7 Rue Duquesnoy, 2-505- 5555) where a chic room will set you back around $115. Royal Windsor Hotel Grand Place is nestled in the heart of Brussels’ city center,within walking distance of the famous Grand Place, Galeries Royales, Sablon Antique Square, plus the Fuse Club (208 Rue Blaes/Blaesstraat).

Once a month, Fuse houses La Demence, one of the largest international gay parties in Europe. You’ll have to hustle to make the next one on August 14, starting at 10 p.m. and running until 11 a.m. the following morning.

Until the last decade or so, Belgians were conservative where gays were concerned. That all changed, of course, in 2003 when Belgium became the second country in Europe to recognize same-sex marriages. It also doesn’t hurt that they have an openly gay Prime Minister, Ello Di Rupo, who was born in 1951, seven years before the Belgian Waffle was showcased at the country’s world’s fair. In order to get the real thing in Belgium, look on the menu for a Brussels Waffle, where you find it as a dessert.

Ironically, the same is true for Belgian Lace, which you’ll find locally listed as Brussels Lace. The heart of the capital’s gay community is in the area around the Grand Place, Rue du Marché au Charbon and Plattesteen. Safe, busy, and they love Americans!

Robert Elias Deaton is a world-traveling epicure who enjoys the finer things in life.

Last week, we introduced you to that picturesque tip of Cape Cod known as Provincetown, a speck of history and tolerance celebrated as much for its Portugese bakeries as it is for its large permanent lesbian and gay populations. This town of 3,500 soars in the warmer months to 10,000 people, including tourists, transvestites, and Tea Party candidates searching for the last holdouts of liberal indifference.

If you arrive by ferryboat from Boston, have your camera ready. There’s an instant photo opportunity waiting night or day at MacMillan Wharf—home to the town’s fishing fleet, ferries, yachts, and assorted pelicans hoping for easy fast food. Most likely your bed and breakfast is a short walk from the pier, or the local taxi services (we recommend Black & White Cab—508-487-7800) will take you to any destination from the pier for $8.00 per person, including two bags of luggage. For your first dining-by-the-bay experience, book at Fanizzi’s by the Sea (539 Commercial St., 508-487-1964). Situated on the east end of Provincetown, the restaurant is so close to the water that high tide literally flows under the stilted frame of the building. Our favorite from the menu has always been the Baked Cod Stuffed with Crab Meat and served with a Newburg Sauce ($24.99), but the choices range from a simple burger ($9.99) on up.

Right in the center of town, look for the Portuguese Bakery (299 Commercial St., 508-487-1803), where the specialty is Malacadas—Portuguese Sugar Doughnuts that are rather addicting. While it’s true the bakery is a tourist trap, it’s equally as accurate to announce that they have the best stuffed sandwiches in town. We like them so much, that we’ve often waited in the no-itnever- gets-any-shorter line for a to-go lunch.

Herring Cove Beach is one mile from town at the end of Route 6. Follow the signs as you merge on to Province Lands Road, where you’ll discover two parking lots servicing the white sand. Since this beach is officially managed by Cape Cod National Seashore, there is a $10 parking fee. When you reach the water, turn to the left and discover the best gay beach in P-town. Continue a little beyond that point, and you’ll find sunbathers shedding their clothes to remove any trace of the Great Northeast tan line.

The Provincetown Public Library (356 Commercial St.) is a fun place to people watch, and check your email via the free public use computers. The ½ scale model of the schooner Rose Dorothea pays tribute to the town’s fisherman legacy, and is the showcase of the second-floor children’s section.

Mussel Beach Health Club (35 Bradford St., 508-487- 0001) is the cleanest, most u p – t o – d a t e facility for working your muscles to a fine tune. Free weights combine with elliptical crosstrainers and stairmasters in this popular gym that sells a week-pass for $90.

The A-House (6 Masonic Pl.) is the bar where twinks, bears, leather men, and muscle boys share the space. Actually three bars in one, the place includes the Little Bar with its cruisy men and a jukebox for sound, the upstairs Macho Bar where naughty is nice, and the large dance floor and patio called the Big Room—all open ‘til 1 a.m. There is no end of fun in this town of plenty, where a simple walk down Commercial Street is a kaleidoscope of gays, straights, lesbians, and the occasional fisherman—all living the dream on Cape Cod Bay.

Read Part 1 : TRAVEL: PROVINCETOWN- If the Pilgrims Could See Us Now

In 1620, the Mayflower, carrying 100 separatists from England and Holland, landed on the tip of Cape Cod and anchored just off the shore of what is now Provincetown. It was a brutal November day, as Novembers can be in P-Town. Within the week, the Pilgrims decided that the place was a little too rough and exposed for their needs, and they continued on to Plymouth Rock, directly across Cape Cod Bay on the mainland. Before they left the tiny tip of Cape Cod, however, they signed the Mayflower Compact, which established the laws that governed this group of religious extremists who formed the backbone of America’s original colonies.

The village of Provincetown was eventually taken over by Portuguese fisherman, who found the harbor a perfect launch point for their daily fishing runs. And so it remained until the mid-30s, when artists and writers discovered this remote spot, and began its rise into one of the gayest spots in America. You arrive in Provincetown through Boston International Airport, connecting to P-Town on Cape Air (866-CAPE-AIR), or via high-speed ferries (carrying people, pets and bicycles, but no cars). Book a seat on Bay State Cruises (877-PTFERRY), or the slightly slower and cheaper Boston Harbor Cruises (877-SEE-WHALE) with transportation provided at the airport in Boston to either ferry via water taxi.

From P-Town airport, taxis or shuttles make the quick five-minute haul into the center of the village, where you will find a choice of luxurious guest houses, family motels, or the famous Gifford House Inn (9 Carver St., 800-434-0130)—the original hotel which was the final stop of the stagecoach in 1858, and is still in business today. Run by Jim Fosse, The Gifford House provides straightforward rooms on three floors reached via the original stairs. While all the rooms have private baths, ask about A/C—some rooms have it, some do not-though that poses no problem, since the hotel was positioned on a crest overlooking the harbor, and receives cooling bay breezes year-round.

Rates start under $100 a night. The CastAways restaurant is open for breakfast and lunch, with the Lobby Piano Bar open nightly at 10 p.m. The Purgatory Leather Dance Bar is in the cellar and appropriately dark and nasty, particularly on Sunday nights when there’s always a line for admission. For the ultimate in luxury and she-sheindulgence, just across the street is the Crowne Pointe Historic Inn & Spa (82 Bradford St., 877-276-9631) where the innkeepers provide working fireplaces, p i l l o w – t o p p e d beds, homecooked breakfasts, and a heated pool complete with towel boys and drink service.

The Bistro at Crowne Point is a highly- recommended gourmet restaurant, where the views are nearly as splendid as the cuisine. Dress up and act the part. For longer stays, contact the legendary girls at Pied Piper Real Estate (199 Commercial St., # 8, 508-487-1528). Our favorites Betty Newman and Phoebe Otis are privy to all the choice rentals for a week, month, or throughout the whole season. Personalized treatment is the hallmark here, and you will end up recommending these gals to your friends.

They will be the first to tell you that a bike is the most you’ll ever need to get around, while much of the town’s action can be reached on foot, walking down the packed main throughfare, Commercial Street. Next week, we’ll fill you in on all the restaurants, clothing stores, clubs, galleries, cruise spots, and gyms—plus the oh-so-special public library, which is a must-visit on anyone’s vacation schedule. Like many things Provincetown, it’s old, it’s colorful, and oh-so-gay.

Provincetown, Cape Cod – Part 2