Florida Agenda

When Realtor Caleb Ben-Avram and school teacher Tim Slivinski learned that a small wine store in the business district of Wilton Manors was on the market, they decided to investigate. “We both always loved exploring wine stores, whether locally or when we traveled,” says Ben- Avram. “At the time, The Naked Grape only sold wine by the bottle, and did not have ‘by the glass’ sales. We decided that if we were to purchase the business, we would change the format to a wine bar,” adds Slivinski.

Caleb Ben-Avram and Tim Slivinski

“It’s hard to believe,” recalls Ben- Avram of that day in 2007. The partners knew that success would bring changes. “We used to listen to people who would stop in for a glass of wine. We’d hear, ‘We’re going to grab a bite to eat and we’ll be back.’ Of course, most times they never did come back after dinner,” Slivinski recalls. That oft-repeated scenario motivated the duo to find a location where they could offer food service to their patrons. That brought them—and their successful operation— up the Drive a few hundred feet, to 2163 Wilton Drive, next to Karl Grace Insurance (and the old offices of Guy Magazine). It was a wise decision.

“We consistently get four-and-a-half [out of a maximum of five] stars on Yelp.com,” notes Ben-Avram. “Our food is always fresh. I go to green markets throughout the area. I refuse to use anything that is prepackaged. That’s one of the things that set us apart,” he adds.

Slivinski says that they are regularly fine-tuning The Naked Grape to better serve their regulars and new patrons. “We have reduced the amount of bottles from our retail area. We do sell lots of bottles near the holidays, and of course for dinner parties as hostess gifts, but we are really concentrating on our food.

Of their addition of an alfresco outdoor dining and conversation area, he adds, “People enjoy being able to sit outside with a book and sip their wine or one of our gourmet beers.”

The oenophiles (look it up) have lots to offer wine-lovers who can’t get enough of the juice of the grape. “In addition to our Tuesday and Wednesday half price bottles for on-premise consumption, we are offering ‘Pairings’ on Thursday night: Three food items and three wines for one price. Sometimes we will pair desserts with wine, and other times it may be cheeses,” Slivinski explains. “We always have one of the wine reps at these tastings to answer questions. We call it ‘Wine with No Pretense.’”

As for the rest of the year, “Every year around Thanksgiving we have a Holiday Tasting. This year the date is November11, from 3 to 5 p.m.,” notes Ben-Avram. “It’s always well-attended and a great time. I may even bake one of my blue cheese cheesecakes,” he adds—teasing palates and threatening waistlines across the Island City. The same as it ever was.

For more anniversary specials, visit nakedgrapewinebar.com, and tell Caleb and Tim you read about them in Agenda. Cheers!

J-Mark’s
1245 N Federal Hwy
Fort Lauderdale, FL 33304
(954) 390-0770

By TIM SLIVINSKI

It is nearly a rhetorical question:  Have you been to J Mark’s yet? After all, on any typical evening, it seems that you run into several of your friends and acquaintances when you walk in.

And that, of course, is a testament to the appeal of this popular dining spot. It is a place that makes every guest feel comfortable and important—from the minute they enter. There are always smiles at the hostess stand, and Rebecca, with her infectious smile and graceful charm, is sure to stop by your table for a chat at some point. The bar is always humming with conversation and peals of laughter, and very soon, one of the best dining patios in Fort Lauderdale will be crowded once again.

Liking the hubbub and friendliness of the bar, my partner and I often opt for a seat there. J Mark’s is one of those places where the appetizers can easily constitute a meal, so after ordering a drink, we peruse our options. Though sliders have become a bit ubiquitous, I am a huge fan of the A-hi Tuna Sliders. At $13.99, they are a great deal and superbly delicious. Perfectly seared tuna with a zingy Cajun crust arrives on freshly made mini-buns. Avocado, red onion, crispy wontons and a remoulade all combine with the tuna to make a wonderful explosion of flavor in the mouth. Turn up the heat by adding a bit of wasabi and soy ginger. These sliders never fail to please. My partner prefers the Prime Rib Sliders ($12.99), though claiming not to be a prime rib fan. He loves the texture and perfectly cooked temperature of the prime rib and how it is layered on the mini-bun. They arrive with basil pesto and creamy horseradish, which kicks up the heat a bit. Dip them in warm au jus, and don’t worry if it dribbles down your chin. Sliders are plated with a small batch of fries, so it is easy to make them an entrée.

When my appetite is a bit more on the hearty side, I tend to opt for J Mark’s Rib-eye ($24.99). It is an ample portion of steak, and it consistently arrives at my requested temperature. The menu serves it with Yukon Gold Mashed Potatoes, which are terrific and enough to feed four, but I often ask for a baked potato instead, highlighting another fact that makes J Mark’s so popular: They gladly and willingly make substitutions. There is never a quibble.

The boyfriend leans toward the pasta portion of the menu. He is particularly fond of the Veggie Lovers Pasta ($11.99). It offers an array of vegetables: broccoli, sun-dried tomatoes, roasted eggplant, peppers, and kalamata olives. Tossed in an olive oil and walnut basil pesto with penne, it has become a “go to” dish for him. Half of the overly generous serving almost always goes home for the next day’s lunch.

One of the newer offerings at J Mark’s is Saturday and Sunday brunch, featured from 11 a.m. until 3 p.m. Spicy bloody Marys or mimosas at $3.00 each get your late morning started in just the right way. Brunch offerings are listed on a separate menu and tempt with some unusual preparations. On a recent slightly less humid and cooler Sunday, our gracious and exceedingly competent waiter, Ralph, kept us well liquefied in brunch cocktails and coffee. I have fallen in love with the Filet and Eggs ($12.99). Certified Angus Beef Tips are grilled to your desired temperature, and the dish arrives with beautifully poached eggs, homemade Hollandaise sauce, and breakfast potatoes, which are crispy, but not too much so. It is a hearty way to get my day going after a late Saturday. (Dining hint: I love to dip my breakfast potatoes in the Hollandaise. Yummy!)

For something completely unusual, try one of my partner’s favorites: the Cheese-burger Bennie ($13.99). Two superbly grilled patties, again done to your desired temperature, with cheddar cheese placed atop toasted English muffins. They are then finished with poached eggs and Hollandaise sauce. It sounds messy, and it is, but it is oh so good! I would never have believed it if I had not tried it. Other brunch choices include an egg white omelette ($9.99), an egg croissant sandwich ($9.99), breakfast egg rolls ($9.99), and several more variations on the traditional eggs benedict ($11.99-$15.99).

A comfortable bar and dining area, many menu options and price points, attentive and well-trained servers, great cocktails – it is all a part of the winning formula that keeps customers coming back to J Mark’s. Whether you want to enjoy a drink and an appetizer or a full-on meal, you will be graciously cared for.

J Mark’s does it and does it well.

View more food reviews at SurprisingDining.com

By TIM SLIVINSKI

Those of you with a history in Fort Lauderdale will remember the old Brownie’s on South Andrews. It was legendary; it was an institution. The old Brownie’s is now the new Tap 42, opened since mid-November. For years burgers were relegated to fast food spots. That was then. Tap 42 serves new style burgers, truly gourmet. In the 40’s and 50’s, classic cocktails made with bourbon, such as the classic Manhattan, were all the rage. Then vodka took over. Bourbon is new again–42 varieties in fact–at Tap 42. Beer was once America’s drink of choice. Then wine surpassed it. At Tap 42, 42 draft beers, most of them craft beers and small production, have all the nuances and flavor profiles of fine wine. Everything old is indeed new again.

On a recent Monday night with a slight chill in the air and a rather strong breeze, the b/f and I decided to check out Tap 42.

We had heard great buzz about it and decided to go see for ourselves what was all about. First, the renovation on the old Brownie’s is nothing short of stunning. A long bar with several high top and dining tables along the wall give Tap 42 a very urban, sleek look. There is an outdoor area of the bar along with a patio in the back for taking advantage of our great South Florida winter weather. First impression: Excellent!
We decided on two stools at the outdoor bar, and soon after claiming our spot, Savannah greeted us with a warm smile and inquired about our choice of drinks. I am a bourbon fanatic, so I asked to see the bourbon list. The list not only indicates the name of each bourbon, but it further describes individual flavor profiles. I was like a kid in a candy store. I asked for Savannah’s help, and she pointed out a couple that are customer favorites. I selected her first suggestion, and she sent off to mix me a Manhattan. Meanwhile, the b/f was drooling over the selections of craft beers from the U.S. and around the world.

He decided to try a pomegranate beer–no joke. Once we had our drinks in hand, we relaxed and took in the cool vibe surrounding us.

Feeling famished, we decided to order a couple of bar snacks from the menu. Do not–I repeat do not–overlook the starters at Tap 42. They are creative, interesting, and unique with each one sounding as delicious as the next. We decided on the Berkshire Crispy Pork Belly ($13) and the Wild Mushroom Tostada ($8.50). Savannah assured us we had made wise choices.

Indeed, we had. When the appetizers arrived, we were taken in immediately by the creative plating and the outstanding aroma of each dish. The pork belly, melt in your mouth tender, was glazed with huckleberry jam and sherry vinaigrette, sitting atop a salad of farro—another old/new grain—and watercress. Outstanding! The portion was ample enough to easily be a small plate meal for one. The Wild Mushroom Tostada offered a blend of earthy, aromatic mushrooms in a creamy mushroom sauce sitting on a toasted baguette. Comforting and delicious. Too messy to eat with your hands, it was nonetheless a flavorful dish that fits the heartiness of both bourbon and beer.

Needless to say, we cleaned both those plates. I ordered another Manhattan with a different bourbon, while the b/f selected another craft beer. Reading the descriptions of the 9 oz. Gourmet Burgers, I began to narrow down my selection. I finally opted for the Drunken Goat ($14). It offers a beef/lamb blend burger topped with tomato jam, arugula, bourbon red onions, goat cheese, and Dijon on brioche. All burgers are served with fries. My partner’s eye was caught by an Herb Marinated Skirt Steak ($19) near the bottom of the menu. It was a 10 oz. skirt steak served with steak fries, Brussels sprout hash, arugula salad, and beef jus.

Creative fun plating came through again when our entrees arrived.  My burger offered an array of flavors with the sweetness of the bourbon onions playing off the tanginess of the tomato jam. The burger itself was perfectly grilled to my medium request—juicy and full of flavor. A beautifully medium pink sliced skirt steak graced my b/f’s plate. It was spicy, but not overly so, still allowing the flavor of the beef to shine through. He particularly enjoyed the Brussels sprout hash, saying it was different as well as delicious. Between mouthfuls we assured Savannah that we were greatly pleased with our choices.

Will we go back to Tap 42? Most definitely, and that’s perhaps the highest compliment a patron can give a restaurant. It has a friendly staff that fit the high energy, urban vibe of the room. The bourbon and craft beer list have thought, whimsy, and creativity behind them. The food was creative, fun, and, most of all, delicious. I look forward to my next visit.

Tap 42
1411 South Andrews Ave.
Fort Lauderdale, FL
954-463-4900

By Tim Slivinski

­­Sea Level Restaurant
Marriott Harbor Beach
3030 Holiday Drive
Fort Lauderdale, FL
954-765-3041

Many of us are familiar with the Marriott Harbor Beach Resort’s signature restaurant called 3030 Ocean. However, we may not even be aware that this fine hotel on the beach offers another dining option. Sea Level is a restaurant that is, quite literally, on the sand. In order to find it, you have to walk through the resort’s main floor and then wind your way past the gorgeous pool area with its plethora of lounge chairs, all lined up just so. Once you find it, it is a treat to look at the gorgeous water with its swelling waves, to feel the beach breeze, and to hear the power of the water. Tables are “beachy” looking, many of them dressed in sea green and ocean blue with chairs looking equally seaside in wicker and cushions. There are high-tops, dinner tables, and padded wicker sofas for lounging. An outdoor bar offers cocktails, and it is quite acceptable to come directly off the beach for lunch or dinner.

My partner and I stopped in on a warm, breezy Sunday evening when a dinner in a noisy crowded restaurant just did not seem appealing. As we sat down at our table, the roar of the ocean’s waves was at once calming and soothing, despite its power. We were greeted by Brittany, our smiling server and ordered cocktails.

Intrigued by something called crab salsa ($16.00), we decided to start our relaxing dinner with an order. When it arrived, it was a traditional salsa that was topped by lump crab meat, sprinkled with Old Bay seasoning. It looked delicious and seemed appropriate for our dining environment. Our first tastes did not disappoint. The coolness of the crab was a great foil to the spicy zest of the salsa. The sprinkling of Old Bay seasoning also helped to give this appetizer a bit of a kick. It was a bit messy to eat on the strips of tortilla that accompanied it, but that was part of the fun of the dish.

As we melted further into our chairs and looked out over the ocean, we pondered our main courses. Sea Level offers several cuts of steak with accompanying add-ons and sauces as well as a nice array of sandwiches and burgers. We, however, were craving seafood. Fresh fish options and preparations change regularly, so be sure to ask your server what is being offered. They are also printed on a large chalkboard inside the small area at Sea Level that offers indoor dining. From the choices, I selected scallops ($36.00) while my partner chose halibut ($35.00).

When our entrees arrived, they were plated with an eye toward color, making them look appetizingly beautiful. My scallops were quite large, but they were perfectly pan seared on the outside, giving them that little bit of crunchy glazing that makes scallops so delicious.

They were moist and slightly sweet on the interior, not in the least bit overdone, a sure way to ruin a scallop dish. Boniato mash, a root vegetable that is akin to potatoes, accompanied my scallops. They have a slight sweetness which is pleasant, though not quite as sweet as a yam or sweet potato. Grilled vegetables finished the plate. The b/f’s halibut was a sizable filet that was grilled and served atop a slaw. He pronounced his fish expertly grilled, as it flaked beautifully but was not at all dry. The herb used to season the halibut gave it an earthy, sort of smoky-woodsy quality that he found interesting and flavorful.

Realizing that both our entrees had been quite large, we did not have room for dessert, but opted to linger with after dinner coffee as we enjoyed our ocean view and breeze just a little longer.

Sea Level is open for both lunch and dinner seven days a week. It would make a great spot for after beach cocktails and munchies, and they offer special pricing on their appetizers between 5PM and 7PM.  Sea Level offers its diners a place that is very much about the beach, and yet gives them a touch of class and elegance. It would be a perfect spot for lunch with out of town guests. Delicious food and a great view—it sums up Sea Level simply and well.

By RICHARD HACK

She’s naked and she’s hot, and hiding in plain sight right on Wilton Drive. We’re speaking, of course, of the Naked Grape Wine Bar, which manages to mix cozy with industrial in a welcome mat of stainless steel, plush seating and dark walls mixed with a friendly cliental that seemed to flow as couples throughout a recent Saturday night visit.

Nutritional counselor and fitness trainer Andy Kress joined me to taste our way through the Grape’s new tapas menu with features flatbread pizza, panini sandwiches and an assortment of crisp and tempting salads. But it was the cheese sampler plate ($15) that attracted Andy’s palate. Three half-servings from the extensive cheese case sounds like it should be a gourmand’s dream, but making a choice from their huge selection was hardly simple.

The first taste of  Humboldt Fog ripened goat cheese, with its layer of edible vegetable ash, combined creamy texture with a tangy overglow. A great start to a varied assortment. The cave-aged gruyere made with cow’s milk was far subtler, but no less tasty.

Perfectly creamy while still maintaining its shape. Our third sample, the  sheep’s milk manchego, the definitive Spanish cheese, had a piquant, buttery and nutty flavor, distinguishing it from the trio, which came with British biscuit crackers and was accompanied by a caramelized Vidalia onion compote.

While still on the Small Plates section of the menu, we were lured by Manny’s Lower East Side Chopped Liver ($5) that was supposed to be served with a French baguette, but instead came with saltines. Either way, Manny knows his stuff—for the thick and rich chopped liver was laced with onions and eggs and a symphony of ethnic undercurrents.

The freshly prepared lump-crab cakes were easily the best deal on the entire menu at a scant $10 for two. Served on a bed of arugula, the crab cakes featured a sun-dried tomato finishing butter that left a lingering taste of garlic, basil and oregano just behind our smiling lips.

Our ever-informative server Johnny sold us on trying a dish called Three Little Pigs ($10), which at that point in the evening was exactly how we were beginning to feel as we loosened our belts and continued to graze the way Americans increasing do these days. As it turned out, the “pigs” of the title were actually slightly-larger-than-cocktail-size wieners, snuggled in a fresh bun and decorated with a host of accessory items that gave each a regional twist.

Not surprisingly, the least inspiring and tasty was the American: with its roasted red pepper catsup and mustard relish. Far more of a standout was the Mexican: an excellent combination of corn relish, jalapeno, and chipotle mustard dressing. Hot, sweet and delicious. But the triple-crown went to the out-of-the park Greek: a baby weiner covered in feta cheese, diced cucumber, Kalamata olives with a Greek tahini dressing. All three were served were can’t-stop-eating-them blue potato chips. Yum!

As I went wondering through the bar-restaurant, chatting up customers and joining in various celebrations in progress, it was evident that the Naked Grape is a happy place. There’s a fireplace warmth to the space without a fireplace. That glow you feel is from the friendly faces and outstretched hands. Not only are you encouraged to linger here, there are scattered board games—Yahtze, Monopoly, Trivial Pursuit among them—to keep you fastened to your seats.

At the far end of Naked Grape, a retail section features jars of specialized chutneys, antipastos, jellies, relishes plus warm and cold dips, fresh from the Virginia Chutney Company in Arlington. And then, of course, there are the walls of wines—available for purchase by the bottle, glass, or two-ounce taste beginning at $2.50. What a clever way to explore the vineyard without committing half-a-paycheck in the process.

Co-owner/proprietor Caleb Ben-Avram is always in the kitchen, positioned right next to the eight-seat bar where the cute bartender Ben is a blur of activity and effervescence, while co-owner Tim Slivinski works the room.

Walk through the door at the Naked Grape and you’re family. And like family, you’ll immediately feel at home, and come back again and again.

By TIM SLIVINSKI

Coconuts Waterside Grill
429 Seabreeze Ave., Ft. Lauderdale, FL
954-525-2421

On a recent balmy evening with a friend visiting from Brooklyn, where it has already tumbled down to thirty degrees, we found ourselves heading to Coconuts. He wanted to maximize his outdoor time before returning north, so an al fresco dinner on the Intracoastal held great appeal for him. The fact that we could eat waterside just sweetened the idea. Coconuts now offers valet parking, so you no longer have to circle its small but crowded lot looking for a space. Just let the valet do it!

We were shown to a table on the lower deck directly on the Intracoastal, and settled in for a relaxing evening looking at the water, the stars in the sky, and getting caught up. It was a Tuesday evening, but the entire place was buzzing with conversation as it was quite crowded. On Monday and Tuesday evenings, Coconuts offers 50% off all bottles on their wine list, a deal that is difficult to pass up.

Even better, the wine list carries some unusual varietals and labels, giving diners the option to order something beyond the usual suspects on most restaurant wine lists.

In keeping with the outdoorsy feel that we were enjoying, my friend and I ordered a bottle of Whispering Angel Rosé from Provence. It is on the list at $28.00 a bottle, so it’s a steal at 50% off. It’s a light, slightly dry Rosé with a bit of fruit, not at all sweet; light, crisp, and refreshing. Jason, our friendly server, brought us a chiller, and informed us of that night’s featured appetizers.

We decided to share Coconuts famous heirloom tomato salad ($15.00), as Jason informed us that it would be large enough to split and that it was the restaurant’s biggest appetizer seller. When it arrived, we could see why. Beautiful, yellow, red, and purple heirloom tomatoes are tossed with a light vinaigrette dressing and crumbles of blue cheese, topped with crispy croutons. Each tomato was bursting with juicy goodness, tasting like the tomatoes you could grow in your own garden. The dressing was piquant and tangy, and the salad was not overly dressed. We enjoyed each forkful as the salad quickly disappeared.

As we savored the wine and the breeze, Jason returned to go over dinner features. Coconuts is a place where it is imperative to listen to your server go over the features. The kitchen turns out interesting, unique, flavorful dishes that always delight me every time I venture to try something new. This night, however, the paella ($28.00) cooking on the outdoor deck under the watchful eye of a chef caught my friend’s attention. This savory and hearty combination of seafood, sausage, and chicken in saffron rice was calling his name. When it arrived, he swore he would never eat it all, as the portion is very generous. Wrong! His plate was clean. He said the flavors of all the ingredients were well-married, with no one item overpowering the others. It had simmered and cooked to perfection, offering a meld of savory, spicy flavors.

I, on the other hand, had my heart set on one of my favorite entrées at Coconuts: the Barbecued Back Ribs ($22.00). I am not a rib eater, but I fell in love with them long ago when coaxed by a friend to try one rib from her order. I was hooked – immediately. I do not order ribs in any other restaurant, but I find myself craving Coconuts version of this eat-with-your-fingers dish. They are “fall off the bone” tender in a BBQ sauce that combines just the right amount of tang, heat, and sweetness, without letting any one of them take over. I dove into my entrée, also thinking that a portion would go home for lunch the next day. They never made it. I ordered them with a side of mac ‘n cheese, which was very cheesy (in a good way) and a side of roasted cauliflower, my nod to healthy eating.

The cauliflower was actually delicious, as roasting it brings out a flavor profile in the vegetable that no other preparation can match.

As we enjoyed the remaining wine in our bottle, I realized why Coconuts beckons me to return so often. It is a comfortable outdoor venue in a beautiful setting that serves amazingly delicious food in an unpretentious and unfussy way. The wait staff is always friendly and knowledgeable of their menu’s food. It is a place that is dog-friendly, and the sight of so many people relaxing and enjoying themselves is calming. Coconuts’ motto is “be nice.” They are very nice and expect the same from their patrons. Somehow, I can’t imagine not being nice at a place that makes dining do delicious and comfortable.

By TIM SLIVINSKI

I won’t tell stories; I will be honest. It has been quite a few months since I have visited Galanga. There was no real reason, but word on the street was that things were not so good. It’s time to put those stories to bed – for good. A recent visit on a Tuesday evening for dinner had me thinking that Galanga is back and is again a dining force with which to be reckoned. When I first arrived, I had the good fortune to speak with Adrian, the new general manager, and he wants to let South Florida know that Galanga is ready to treat all of you with amazing dishes, whether you select Thai or Sushi. The hiring of a new chef directly from Thailand is a testament to the authenticity of the food that Galanga is serving to its customers.

I wanted to start my dinner with something from the sushi menu. Adrian pointed me in the direction of the Kobi Tuna ($11.00), assuring me that if I were a tuna fan – which I am – that I would love it. He was more than right about that. When it was brought to my table, I was struck by the beauty of the dish’s presentation. The plating reminded me of a painting of a lobster, with its wasabi cream and masago painted from the sides of the thinly cut and overlapping tuna slices. The tuna was deliciously rare and topped with crispy flakes of tempura. The crunch of the tempura was a perfect foil to the creamy texture of the seared tuna. I wanted to inhale every bit of it. It is a starter that I will return for soon!

One of the soups on the menu, the Tom Yum ($6.00), caught my attention, so I decided to give it a try before my main course. I asked it for it to be prepared medium-spicy. I also selected chicken as the protein in the soup, though seafood and vegetarian are other menu options. It arrived as a bowl brimming with a rich broth, spicy but not overly so. It offered flavors of rich stewed tomato and lime. It reminded me, strangely enough, of a bloody Mary – in all the right ways. The chicken pieces were large enough to be identified and not overly diced. They offered texture to the richness of the delightfully tangy broth.

When it is time to select a main course, Galanga offers a vast array of options from seafood to poultry (including duck) to beef and vegetarian. You can choose from traditional Thai dishes to various chef-prepared sushi or sashimi dishes. Once again, Adrian was there to guide me, pointing me in the direction of the Unbelievable Sea Bass ($28.00), as he could sense I was clearly in a seafood mood that night. For a restaurant to call an entrée “unbelievable” may seem like a little too much chutzpah – but it definitely lived up to its moniker. A perfectly moist and grilled filet of Sea Bass covered in basil-garlic sauce, but not overly smothered, was accompanied by flavorful jasmine rice and grilled vegetables. The flavors and textures were amazingly balanced, and the delicate flavor of the sea bass was allowed to shine rather than being diluted. It was a beautifully prepared dish, appealing to the eyes and most appealing on the palate.

I should have stopped there as my hunger was superbly satiated, but Robert, my attentive server, tempted me with Galanga’s sweet offerings. All sounded richly delicious and decadent. I tried to be “kind of” good and asked him to bring me the Green Tea ice cream ($6.00). After all, green tea has health benefits! The cooling effect of the ice cream was a great ending to the various flavors I had consumed during my dinner. The ice cream is drizzled with thin ribbons of honey and chocolate and accompanied by crispy won tons that are similarly drizzled. Elegant, simple, and wonderfully refreshing.

Galanga is still a beautifully appointed space that invites its patrons to relax and savor the aromas and flavors of their many menu options. And now that our South Florida weather is becoming comfortable, do not forget that Galanga offers an outdoor patio so you can dine al fresco on our wonderfully cool and breezy evenings. The name Galanga, I am thinking, comes from “galangal,” a perennial from Southeastern Asia with an aromatic root.

It is a name that fits. The aromas of the excellently prepared dishes guarantee that Galanga is certain to be a perennial along the Drive.

Galanga
2389 Wilton Drive, Wilton Manors, FL
954-202-0000

Portia’s – True Southern Cuisine

By TIM SLIVINSKI

Portia’s
199 E Oakland Park Blvd., Oakland Park, FL
954-616-8197

Just for the record, I am not from the South, nor have I ever lived in the South. I have actually spent relatively little time in the South, other than South Florida, which we all know is not really the South anyway. However, in my years of dining—and there are many because I am old – I have come to have an appreciation and a palate for the many cuisines of the world and of our great, diverse nation. Therefore, I know for certain that some of the best comfort food in the world comes from our very own South. It’s not fussy; it’s not fancy. It’s just flavorful good food, especially when it’s made right.

And the new kid (or should I say pig?) on the block, Portia’s, is doing it very, very right.

Located just a block or so east of Andrews on the north side of Oakland Park Blvd., Portia’s is a comfortable, warm, friendly place that will have you feasting on well-made comfort food and leaving satisfied. Walking in, there is a small dining room on the left with a larger dining area to the right.

White tablecloths and linen napkins add a touch of class to the friendly vibe.

On a recent rainy and windy night – just right for old-fashioned comfort food – we were shown to a corner booth and settled in to peruse the extensive menu offerings. In less than a minute, Bill, our most amiable and affable server, came to our table with cracklins, complimentary munchies, and enquired about our drink preference. We chatted for a moment about this being our first visit and then ordered two glasses of Pinot Grigio.

When Bill returned with our wine, he explained some details about the menu to us and offered some suggestions. This man knows his menu. We didn’t hesitate to place an order of Fried Green Tomatoes ($6.95) to feast on while we contemplated and discussed dinner decisions. When the appetizer arrived, it was clear they were freshly made in house. No, they weren’t perfectly round and even, and that’s all to the good. Freshly dipped in a great crunchy breading, they were crisp and tangy and not at all greasy. The accompanying dipping sauce was a mild horseradish sauce that had just the right amount of heat. We were out for a leisurely dinner, but they did not last long on the plate.

I am a devotee of fried chicken, but I rarely order it because I hate to waste the calories on fried chicken that is sub-par. This night, I decided to throw caution to the wind and indulge. Portia’s offers its fried chicken entrée in either a two-piece dinner ($10.95) or a three-piece dinner ($13.95). Even better you can select any combination of pieces you desire: breasts, legs, thighs, or wings. I opted for the two-piece dinner of a breast and a thigh. The menu states (and Bill told us) to allow up to 20 minutes for the preparation. Let me tell you, I would have waited twice that long once the entrée arrived and I tasted it. It is what Southern Fried Chicken should be. Crackly and crispy with secret spice batter on the outside that opens to reveal chicken that is juicy and moist. Decadently delicious.

The chef brines the chicken for 24 hours, helping to create that moist juiciness so often lacking in poultry. From a long list of signature side dishes, I had selected Macaroni and Cheese (big surprise) and Collard Greens. Both sides were pleasing, with the collards having just enough smoky pork flavor and the mac and cheese just gloppy enough – that’s a compliment in my book – to be like mom’s.

Fussy food? No, but so very delicious.

My partner has a thing for chicken livers ($12.95), so when he saw them on the menu, I knew there would be no other choice for him. When his plate arrived, a heaping portion of fresh chicken livers that had been coated with a secret flour mixture arrived in all their crunchy glory. He proclaimed them tender and moist with just the right amount of crunch as they began to disappear from his plate. As his sides, he selected Pickled Beets, another of his favorites, and the Macaroni and Cheese.

He relished the beets, saying they were just like he remembered at his grandma’s house when she cooked dinner. His portion was so generous that several of the livers were going home with him as lunch the next day.

Throughout our experience, Bill checked frequently to make sure everything tasted great—it did!—and to answer any questions we had as well as refill wine and water glasses. Portia’s menu has several entrees that are in my future. Chicken and Dumplings, Bacon Wrapped Meatloaf, Chicken Pot Pie, and Catfish with Hush Puppies all caught my eye. An appetizer—Potato Rolls with Cheese Dipping Sauce—will be on my table too. Two gentlemen near us were sharing it and raving about it. It looked very tasty.

Great food at reasonable prices in a comfortable atmosphere with attentive, knowledgeable service—Portia’s has it all going on. If you like Southern food and have not let yourself indulge in the real thing in quite some time, then head to Portia’s. They do a heck of a job with true Southern cuisine.

Casablanca Café
3049 Alhambra St., Fort Lauderdale, FL
954-764-3500

Putting the Aaahhh in Al Fresco

By Tim Slivinski

Aaahhh … those first few fall evenings in South Florida when the breezes are blowing, the humidity has dropped, and the air smells fresh and clean. That time of year when so much of the country is putting away the patio and deck furniture while we are preparing to put ours to good use.  South Floridians come out of their hibernation and get ready to revel in the outdoors for the next seven months or so. It is evenings like this that make us want to take advantage of our surroundings and dine al fresco.

One of those very recent evenings found the car making its way to Casablanca Café, that gem of an historic landmark overlooking our beautiful beach. With mild breezes blowing and a night when long sleeves felt appropriate and comfortable, we decided to dine at Casablanca. This a spot where dining outside is nearly mandatory. We were willing to wait for an alfresco table, which is often the case on busy nights, but our wait was not

long.

Comfortably seated at a two-top overlooking the ocean and with the soft breezes bringing an ever-so-slight chill, we were ready for a true Fort Lauderdale experience. Along with our cocktails, we decided to begin our evening with an order of Prince Edward Island Mussels ($11.95), in honor of our view of the sea. Large, succulent mussels arrived at the table in an aromatic broth – spinach-pesto cream, smoked bacon, and tomatoes. The mussels were tender and juicy, while the broth was beckoning us to sop it up with some bread. Casablanca serves an amazing basket of what I can only call “bread fingers.” Warm and brushed with olive oil and a sprinkling of Parmesan cheese, they are not mere bread slices or dinner rolls. Their texture and size were excellent vehicles for enjoying the tangy and smooth broth surrounding the mussels. It was oh so very good. We managed to consume very bit.

Time for a second cocktail and entrées. Casablanca offers a menu brimming with choices in poultry, seafood, beef, pasta and more.

Clearly there is something for everyone on the menu. The features menu caught our eyes, however, and we decided to order in keeping with our “dining by the sea” theme. I selected Basil Grilled Yellowfin Tuna ($26.95). I ordered it grilled medium-rare, as tuna should never be overcooked. It came to the table perfectly grilled to my order. It was nestled on a white truffle-portabella risotto and topped with crispy straw onions and micro greens. The tuna was flavorful and moist and complemented well by the risotto, which was also prepared beautifully. Neither mushy nor too tough, it had a little “tooth” to it, as a good risotto should. The addition of the crispy onions added an interesting and tasty texture contrast. The entire entrée was presented and prepared with care and skill.

My partner, Caleb,  chose the Moroccan Spiced Swordfish ($28.95), as he has always been a fan of the traditional Moroccan seasonings. His plate arrived with a nicely pan-seared filet of Atlantic Swordfish scented with cinnamon, cardamom and other aromatic spices. It was accompanied by cous cous, a cucumber relish, and a honey-yogurt sauce just to finish that Middle Eastern flair.  While he was at first skeptical about how it would all play together, he ultimately decided that not only did it work, but it workedvery well indeed. It was nearly like having a tzatziki sauce for dipping the fish. He devoured every bite, only later confessing that he is often not a fan of swordfish. He certainly was that night!

Casablanca also offers a lunch menu, and it is open seven days a week. Happy Hour runs 4:00 p.m. until 7:00 p.m., Monday through Friday. There is a piano bar inside, and live entertainment is featured most nights in season. We enjoyed our early autumn evening at Casablanca theservice was friendly and prompt, and the space itself was perfect. Yes, it may, at times, be a little “touristy.” And, yes, at times it is rather crowded with tables quite close together. But put that aside. We live in an area where we are fortunate to enjoy beautiful weather while so much of our country does not. Casablanca is made just for those evenings. I know that we will return again before summer does. And I look forward to it.

J Mark’s Has Left Its Mark on the Fort Lauderdale Dining Scene

By TIM SLIVINSKI

It is nearly a rhetorical question:  Have you been to J Mark’s yet? After all, on any typical evening, it seems that you run into several of your friends and acquaintances when you walk in. And that, of course, is a testament to the appeal of this popular dining spot. It is a place that makes every guest feel comfortable and important—from the minute they enter. There are always smiles at the hostess stand, and Rebecca, with her infectious smile and graceful charm, is sure to stop by your table for a chat at some point. The bar is always humming with conversation and peals of laughter, and very soon, one of the best dining patios in Fort Lauderdale will be crowded once again.

Liking the hubbub and friendliness of the bar, my partner and I often opt for a seat there. J Mark’s is one of those places where the appetizers can easily constitute a meal, so after ordering a drink, we peruse our options. Though sliders have become a bit ubiquitous, I am a huge fan of the A-hi Tuna Sliders. At $13.99, they are a great deal and superbly delicious. Perfectly seared tuna with a zingy Cajun crust arrives on freshly made mini-buns. Avocado, red onion, crispy wontons and a remoulade all combine with the tuna to make a wonderful explosion of flavor in the mouth. Turn up the heat by adding a bit of wasabi and soy ginger. These sliders never fail to please. My partner prefers the Prime Rib Sliders ($12.99), though claiming not to be a prime rib fan. He loves the texture and perfectly cooked temperature of the prime rib and how it is layered on the mini-bun. They arrive with basil pesto and creamy horseradish, which kicks up the heat a bit. Dip them in warm au jus, and don’t worry if it dribbles down your chin.

Sliders are plated with a small batch of fries, so it is easy to make them an entrée.

When my appetite is a bit more on the hearty side, I tend to opt for J Mark’s Rib-eye ($24.99). It is an ample portion of steak, and it consistently arrives at my requested temperature. The menu serves it with Yukon Gold Mashed Potatoes, which are terrific and enough to feed four, but I often ask for a baked potato instead, highlighting another fact that makes J Mark’s so popular: They gladly and willingly make substitutions. There is never a quibble.

The boyfriend leans toward the pasta portion of the menu. He is particularly fond of the Veggie Lovers Pasta ($11.99). It offers an array of vegetables: broccoli, sun-dried tomatoes, roasted eggplant, peppers, and kalamata olives. Tossed in an olive oil and walnut basil pesto with penne, it has become a “go to” dish for him. Half of the overly generous serving almost always goes home for the next day’s lunch.

One of the newer offerings at J Mark’s is Saturday and Sunday brunch, featured from 11 a.m. until 3 p.m. Spicy bloody Marys or mimosas at $3.00 each get your late morning started in just the right way. Brunch offerings are listed on a separate menu and tempt with some unusual preparations. On a recent slightly less humid and cooler Sunday, our gracious and exceedingly competent waiter, Ralph,  kept us well liquefied in brunch cocktails and coffee. I have fallen in love with the Filet and Eggs ($12.99). Certified Angus Beef Tips are grilled to your desired temperature, and the dish arrives with beautifully poached eggs, homemade Hollandaise sauce, and breakfast potatoes, which are crispy, but not too much so. It is a hearty way to get my day going after a late Saturday. (Dining hint: I love to dip my breakfast potatoes in the Hollandaise. Yummy!)

For something completely unusual, try one of my partner’s favorites: the Cheese-burger Bennie ($13.99). Two superbly grilled patties, again done to your desired temperature, with cheddar cheese placed atop toasted English muffins. They are then finished with poached eggs and Hollandaise sauce. It sounds messy, and it is, but it is oh so good! I would never have believed it if I had not tried it. Other brunch choices include an egg white omelette ($9.99), an egg croissant sandwich ($9.99), breakfast egg rolls ($9.99), and several more variations on the traditional eggs benedict ($11.99-$15.99).

A comfortable bar and dining area, many menu options and price points, attentive and well-trained servers, great cocktails – it is all a part of the winning formula that keeps customers coming back to J Mark’s. Whether you want to enjoy a drink and an appetizer or a full-on meal, you will be graciously cared for. J Mark’s does it and does it well.