Tag Archive | "review"

Sexy and Stylish Seaside Dining

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By Tim Slivinski

­­Sea Level Restaurant
Marriott Harbor Beach
3030 Holiday Drive
Fort Lauderdale, FL
954-765-3041

Many of us are familiar with the Marriott Harbor Beach Resort’s signature restaurant called 3030 Ocean. However, we may not even be aware that this fine hotel on the beach offers another dining option. Sea Level is a restaurant that is, quite literally, on the sand. In order to find it, you have to walk through the resort’s main floor and then wind your way past the gorgeous pool area with its plethora of lounge chairs, all lined up just so. Once you find it, it is a treat to look at the gorgeous water with its swelling waves, to feel the beach breeze, and to hear the power of the water. Tables are “beachy” looking, many of them dressed in sea green and ocean blue with chairs looking equally seaside in wicker and cushions. There are high-tops, dinner tables, and padded wicker sofas for lounging. An outdoor bar offers cocktails, and it is quite acceptable to come directly off the beach for lunch or dinner.

My partner and I stopped in on a warm, breezy Sunday evening when a dinner in a noisy crowded restaurant just did not seem appealing. As we sat down at our table, the roar of the ocean’s waves was at once calming and soothing, despite its power. We were greeted by Brittany, our smiling server and ordered cocktails.

Intrigued by something called crab salsa ($16.00), we decided to start our relaxing dinner with an order. When it arrived, it was a traditional salsa that was topped by lump crab meat, sprinkled with Old Bay seasoning. It looked delicious and seemed appropriate for our dining environment. Our first tastes did not disappoint. The coolness of the crab was a great foil to the spicy zest of the salsa. The sprinkling of Old Bay seasoning also helped to give this appetizer a bit of a kick. It was a bit messy to eat on the strips of tortilla that accompanied it, but that was part of the fun of the dish.

As we melted further into our chairs and looked out over the ocean, we pondered our main courses. Sea Level offers several cuts of steak with accompanying add-ons and sauces as well as a nice array of sandwiches and burgers. We, however, were craving seafood. Fresh fish options and preparations change regularly, so be sure to ask your server what is being offered. They are also printed on a large chalkboard inside the small area at Sea Level that offers indoor dining. From the choices, I selected scallops ($36.00) while my partner chose halibut ($35.00).

When our entrees arrived, they were plated with an eye toward color, making them look appetizingly beautiful. My scallops were quite large, but they were perfectly pan seared on the outside, giving them that little bit of crunchy glazing that makes scallops so delicious.

They were moist and slightly sweet on the interior, not in the least bit overdone, a sure way to ruin a scallop dish. Boniato mash, a root vegetable that is akin to potatoes, accompanied my scallops. They have a slight sweetness which is pleasant, though not quite as sweet as a yam or sweet potato. Grilled vegetables finished the plate. The b/f’s halibut was a sizable filet that was grilled and served atop a slaw. He pronounced his fish expertly grilled, as it flaked beautifully but was not at all dry. The herb used to season the halibut gave it an earthy, sort of smoky-woodsy quality that he found interesting and flavorful.

Realizing that both our entrees had been quite large, we did not have room for dessert, but opted to linger with after dinner coffee as we enjoyed our ocean view and breeze just a little longer.

Sea Level is open for both lunch and dinner seven days a week. It would make a great spot for after beach cocktails and munchies, and they offer special pricing on their appetizers between 5PM and 7PM.  Sea Level offers its diners a place that is very much about the beach, and yet gives them a touch of class and elegance. It would be a perfect spot for lunch with out of town guests. Delicious food and a great view—it sums up Sea Level simply and well.

 

Rockin’ Burgers – No Pretense, No Ceremony – Just Darn Good Food

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ROK:BRGR
208 SW 2nd Street., Ft. Lauderdale, FL
954-525-7656

I first visited and reviewed Rok:Brgr about nine months ago when they were still a fairly new kid on the block and there was a lot of positive buzz about the new gastropub in Himmarshee. Since that visit, many other gourmet burger spots have burst onto the scene, and at times, it almost seems like a sort of “burger wars” has descended upon us. I decided to return to Rok:Brgr to find out whether my initial impression—which was excellent indeed—would be confirmed.

On a Sunday evening at about 7:30p.m., we arrived at Rok:Brgr to find the pub filled with people and lively conversation. There was not a seat to be had at the bar, but very quickly a young server came over and informed us she could put two small tables together for the four of us. If crowds are a testament to a restaurant’s quality, then Rok:Brgr has nothing to worry about!

We ordered cocktails and specialty beers from the menu’s impressive list and began to discuss our level of hunger. We all decided that a couple of starters were needed as it looked as though it would take us some time to read and to decide from the menu’s many burger options. Tempura Battered Zuchini ($6.00) and Fried Pickles ($5.00) were ordered as we settled in to sip our drinks and discuss our options. Our starters arrived in timely fashion, and the kitchen at Rok:Brgr knows how to handle deep frying. Neither of our choices were at all greasy; instead they were delightfully crunchy on the exterior and soft and juicy on the interior. The dips that accompanied each choice, a garlic aioli for the zucchini and a smoked ranch dip for the pickles, added a bit of cool zest to the crunchy goodies we had chosen. We liked both of them.


When it was time to order sandwiches, I opted for the Chicken Dance ($12.00), a ten-ounce chicken burger topped with provolone cheese, hickory smoked bacon, tomato, lettuce, and red onion on a sesame bun. When it arrived with its own little fryer basket of hand-cut French fries – which are superb– it was a sight to behold. I cut it in half so I could manage it better, and that was first sign that this was going to be good. The chicken burger was juicy, not at all dried out as can often be the case with poultry. Flavorful and juicy, it was messy to eat, but that’s part of the fun at Rok:Brgr. No pinkies up here! I particularly liked the mayo as an alternative to traditional catsup and mustard. It added flavor while not overpowering the chicken or the cheese.

The sudden quiet at the table let me know that everyone, not just me, was enjoying his selected sandwich. One friend built a burger from the Burger Bar side of the menu, starting with a certified Angus beef patty ($9.00) and then adding cave aged gruyere ($1.50), exotic mushrooms ($1.50), and avocado ($.50). He ordered it cooked medium, and it arrived perfectly grilled. He nodded “yes” when asked, indicating his delight in his personally built burger.

The boyfriend ordered a feature in honor of the holiday: a Thanksgiving burger ($12.00). A turkey burger was topped withcranberry cheddar cheese, stuffing, and the traditional toppings. He loved it and its texture and flavor combinations. The fourth in our party decided that Las Olas ($16.00) was calling his name.

This one offers a ten-ounce waygu kobe beef burger that is topped by cave-aged gruyere, caramelized onions, and garlic aioli on a brioche bun. Once again, it was grilled to perfectly pink medium.  He commented that the onions were the star as their sweetness offered a great flavor element to his sandwich.

So, am I still impressed with Rok:Brgr? Absolutely. It’s a fun, noisy, happening place with food that fits its funky pub atmosphere. Sometimes we all just need to put down the knives and forks and eat with our hands. That is exactly what Rok:Brgr invites you to do. No pretense, no ceremony – just darn good food and a fun vibe that almost dares you not to have a good time!

Amazingly Delicious and Unpretentious – Dine Al Fresco at the Water’s Edge

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By TIM SLIVINSKI

 

Coconuts Waterside Grill
429 Seabreeze Ave., Ft. Lauderdale, FL
954-525-2421

On a recent balmy evening with a friend visiting from Brooklyn, where it has already tumbled down to thirty degrees, we found ourselves heading to Coconuts. He wanted to maximize his outdoor time before returning north, so an al fresco dinner on the Intracoastal held great appeal for him. The fact that we could eat waterside just sweetened the idea. Coconuts now offers valet parking, so you no longer have to circle its small but crowded lot looking for a space. Just let the valet do it!

We were shown to a table on the lower deck directly on the Intracoastal, and settled in for a relaxing evening looking at the water, the stars in the sky, and getting caught up. It was a Tuesday evening, but the entire place was buzzing with conversation as it was quite crowded. On Monday and Tuesday evenings, Coconuts offers 50% off all bottles on their wine list, a deal that is difficult to pass up.

Even better, the wine list carries some unusual varietals and labels, giving diners the option to order something beyond the usual suspects on most restaurant wine lists.

In keeping with the outdoorsy feel that we were enjoying, my friend and I ordered a bottle of Whispering Angel Rosé from Provence. It is on the list at $28.00 a bottle, so it’s a steal at 50% off. It’s a light, slightly dry Rosé with a bit of fruit, not at all sweet; light, crisp, and refreshing. Jason, our friendly server, brought us a chiller, and informed us of that night’s featured appetizers.

We decided to share Coconuts famous heirloom tomato salad ($15.00), as Jason informed us that it would be large enough to split and that it was the restaurant’s biggest appetizer seller. When it arrived, we could see why. Beautiful, yellow, red, and purple heirloom tomatoes are tossed with a light vinaigrette dressing and crumbles of blue cheese, topped with crispy croutons. Each tomato was bursting with juicy goodness, tasting like the tomatoes you could grow in your own garden. The dressing was piquant and tangy, and the salad was not overly dressed. We enjoyed each forkful as the salad quickly disappeared.

As we savored the wine and the breeze, Jason returned to go over dinner features. Coconuts is a place where it is imperative to listen to your server go over the features. The kitchen turns out interesting, unique, flavorful dishes that always delight me every time I venture to try something new. This night, however, the paella ($28.00) cooking on the outdoor deck under the watchful eye of a chef caught my friend’s attention. This savory and hearty combination of seafood, sausage, and chicken in saffron rice was calling his name. When it arrived, he swore he would never eat it all, as the portion is very generous. Wrong! His plate was clean. He said the flavors of all the ingredients were well-married, with no one item overpowering the others. It had simmered and cooked to perfection, offering a meld of savory, spicy flavors.

I, on the other hand, had my heart set on one of my favorite entrées at Coconuts: the Barbecued Back Ribs ($22.00). I am not a rib eater, but I fell in love with them long ago when coaxed by a friend to try one rib from her order. I was hooked – immediately. I do not order ribs in any other restaurant, but I find myself craving Coconuts version of this eat-with-your-fingers dish. They are “fall off the bone” tender in a BBQ sauce that combines just the right amount of tang, heat, and sweetness, without letting any one of them take over. I dove into my entrée, also thinking that a portion would go home for lunch the next day. They never made it. I ordered them with a side of mac ‘n cheese, which was very cheesy (in a good way) and a side of roasted cauliflower, my nod to healthy eating.

The cauliflower was actually delicious, as roasting it brings out a flavor profile in the vegetable that no other preparation can match.

As we enjoyed the remaining wine in our bottle, I realized why Coconuts beckons me to return so often. It is a comfortable outdoor venue in a beautiful setting that serves amazingly delicious food in an unpretentious and unfussy way. The wait staff is always friendly and knowledgeable of their menu’s food. It is a place that is dog-friendly, and the sight of so many people relaxing and enjoying themselves is calming. Coconuts’ motto is “be nice.” They are very nice and expect the same from their patrons. Somehow, I can’t imagine not being nice at a place that makes dining do delicious and comfortable.

Get Back to Galanga. A Dining Force With Which to be Reckoned

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By TIM SLIVINSKI

I won’t tell stories; I will be honest. It has been quite a few months since I have visited Galanga. There was no real reason, but word on the street was that things were not so good. It’s time to put those stories to bed – for good. A recent visit on a Tuesday evening for dinner had me thinking that Galanga is back and is again a dining force with which to be reckoned. When I first arrived, I had the good fortune to speak with Adrian, the new general manager, and he wants to let South Florida know that Galanga is ready to treat all of you with amazing dishes, whether you select Thai or Sushi. The hiring of a new chef directly from Thailand is a testament to the authenticity of the food that Galanga is serving to its customers.

I wanted to start my dinner with something from the sushi menu. Adrian pointed me in the direction of the Kobi Tuna ($11.00), assuring me that if I were a tuna fan – which I am – that I would love it. He was more than right about that. When it was brought to my table, I was struck by the beauty of the dish’s presentation. The plating reminded me of a painting of a lobster, with its wasabi cream and masago painted from the sides of the thinly cut and overlapping tuna slices. The tuna was deliciously rare and topped with crispy flakes of tempura. The crunch of the tempura was a perfect foil to the creamy texture of the seared tuna. I wanted to inhale every bit of it. It is a starter that I will return for soon!

One of the soups on the menu, the Tom Yum ($6.00), caught my attention, so I decided to give it a try before my main course. I asked it for it to be prepared medium-spicy. I also selected chicken as the protein in the soup, though seafood and vegetarian are other menu options. It arrived as a bowl brimming with a rich broth, spicy but not overly so. It offered flavors of rich stewed tomato and lime. It reminded me, strangely enough, of a bloody Mary – in all the right ways. The chicken pieces were large enough to be identified and not overly diced. They offered texture to the richness of the delightfully tangy broth.

When it is time to select a main course, Galanga offers a vast array of options from seafood to poultry (including duck) to beef and vegetarian. You can choose from traditional Thai dishes to various chef-prepared sushi or sashimi dishes. Once again, Adrian was there to guide me, pointing me in the direction of the Unbelievable Sea Bass ($28.00), as he could sense I was clearly in a seafood mood that night. For a restaurant to call an entrée “unbelievable” may seem like a little too much chutzpah – but it definitely lived up to its moniker. A perfectly moist and grilled filet of Sea Bass covered in basil-garlic sauce, but not overly smothered, was accompanied by flavorful jasmine rice and grilled vegetables. The flavors and textures were amazingly balanced, and the delicate flavor of the sea bass was allowed to shine rather than being diluted. It was a beautifully prepared dish, appealing to the eyes and most appealing on the palate.

I should have stopped there as my hunger was superbly satiated, but Robert, my attentive server, tempted me with Galanga’s sweet offerings. All sounded richly delicious and decadent. I tried to be “kind of” good and asked him to bring me the Green Tea ice cream ($6.00). After all, green tea has health benefits! The cooling effect of the ice cream was a great ending to the various flavors I had consumed during my dinner. The ice cream is drizzled with thin ribbons of honey and chocolate and accompanied by crispy won tons that are similarly drizzled. Elegant, simple, and wonderfully refreshing.

Galanga is still a beautifully appointed space that invites its patrons to relax and savor the aromas and flavors of their many menu options. And now that our South Florida weather is becoming comfortable, do not forget that Galanga offers an outdoor patio so you can dine al fresco on our wonderfully cool and breezy evenings. The name Galanga, I am thinking, comes from “galangal,” a perennial from Southeastern Asia with an aromatic root.

It is a name that fits. The aromas of the excellently prepared dishes guarantee that Galanga is certain to be a perennial along the Drive.

 

Galanga
2389 Wilton Drive, Wilton Manors, FL
954-202-0000

When Straight Critics Like a Gay Themed Movie Better Than Gay Critics; What Does it Mean?

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By Warren Day

In “Weekend,” we finally have a well-received 2011 movie where the love story at the center is between two people of the same sex. Not where it’s a sidebar, as  it was with the excellent “Beginners” that opened in July. And this British independent film is receiving even better reviews, particularly from straight critics. Now why would straight reviewers react more positive to it than gay ones? And why should that bother me or you?

What is undisputed is that Great Britain has given us some of the best gay-themed movies ever made – “Maurice,” “My Beautiful Launderette,” “Prick Up Your Ears,” “Wilde,” “Sunday Bloody Sunday,” “The Crying Game,” “Beautiful Thing,” “Another Country,” “Velvet Goldmine,” and many others. Also fifty years ago it was a British film, “Victim,” with Dirk Bogarde, that was the first major release to ever say the word “homosexual” and to deal with homosexual persecution. So “Weekend” is a part of a distinguished lineage, even if its working-class British accents can be a little hard to understand.

It tells the contemporary story of Russell, a lifeguard for a community pool in Nottingham, England, a place most Americans probably haven’t heard mentioned since a certain sheriff was chasing a certain guy in green tights through Sherwood Forest. One Friday night, he attends a potluck dinner thrown by some straight friends whose happy relationships and contented lives make him even more aware of the loneliness in his own.

Somewhat in desperation, he stops off in a non-descript gay bar on the way

home and is ignored by Chris, the one guy who seems to interest him, but then when Chris can’t score with the guy he wants, he decides he’ll settle for Russell and a one-night stand. Since this isn’t an opportune beginning and since there’s no expectations beyond a fleeting hook-up, they’re less on-guard with each other, less concerned with projecting a calculated image. Over the first 24 hours, they become more honest and open than usual – the result of which is they catch themselves developing some mutual feelings, feelings that are intensified when it’s discovered, for a reason I won’t reveal here, that the relationship cannot continue beyond the weekend. Is a 48-hour weekend time enough to know someone well enough that you’re willing to walk away from a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity in the hope you’ve found your once-in-a-lifetime love?

This film has been rightly praised for the naturalistic way in which their small disclosures and small discoveries about each other leads to something that seems both real and rare, and how the movie’s ending seems genuinely unforced and realistic. To critics who’ve long ago OD’d on the cutesy and predictable formulas of Hollywood romantic comedies (think Jennifer Aniston), this naturalism in both story and acting can be very enticing.

So while this difference from usual rom-com movies may give an understandable cause for straight critics to praise “Weekend,” the fact that it deals with a situation many gays have known either personally or from the experiences of their friends, may give it a tired and ever-so-familiar ring. While on the other hand, seeing two gay men in this situation may provide a fresh spin to straights that it won’t have for us, because you can hear this story being told almost any night in almost any gay bar.

Harvey Fierstein, who wrote and starred in both the play and movie-version of “Torch Song Trilogy,” said that when straights told him they felt his story wasn’t really a gay story, but a universal one, he would protest, saying he’d spent decades transferring heterosexual romances into terms he could understand, and he wasn’t willing to have his gay story homogenized into something generic. There are too few gay stories, Fierstein said, to have them tailored into one-size-fits-all. And as he further stated, he’d be offended if someone claimed that “Schindler’s List” could just as well be about some WASPs in Grover Corners, New Hampshire.

Good stories do have some universal truths, but not at the expense of its particular characters and their often unique struggles.

What I’d like to do is what critics should do more often and say you should probably ignore any reservations I’ve expressed here; chances are you’ll be glad you saw “Weekend,” and will find it to be that rare movie that expresses gay life in a non-exaggerated and non-cartoonish way. The fact that this film may remind you of similar incidents in your own life will make it personal and that will make it powerful.

Coping with the Dark Side of Our Heroes Caldwell Theatre Company Premieres “After the Revolution”

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The year-round Caldwell Theatre Company in Boca Raton is an A-1 class act.

By Warren Day

The class shows in the challenging plays they perform, and not the endlessly-repeated comedies and classics that compose the repertory of many a theater company. The class shows in the sets, which are not only beautifully designed, but also add meaning to the characters and the story. It also shows in the theater building itself, the Count de Hoernle Theatre, one of the most effective and pleasant performing spaces in all of Florida. And usually, the class shows in the high-quality of the acting, with their casts filled with professional talent who’ve earned their Actors Equity union cards. Under the creative leadership of Clive Cholerton, it’s simply one of the best theatre companies in the Sout

Their premiere production for the 2011- 2012 season, “After the Revolution” by Amy Herzog, hits the mark on most of its high standards and speaks well for the season ahead.

First of all, the play was picked by the New York Times as one of the ten best of 2010. It deals with a situation and a theme that has an importance and an appeal outside of its own historical context. What do you do when you discover that the pride of your family, someone who you’ve emulated in your personal and professional life, turns out to have a secret that reveals a much darker side to his character? To some degree, we all need heroes in our lives, but it can be quite dicey to have a family member as one, because if anything should go wrong, the fallout can extend into so many relationships.

In “After the Revolution,” the pride of the family is the grandfather, a kind of Alger Hiss character who achieved fame in the 1950s by not naming names at the McCarthy hearings and for being a spokesperson against the witch hunts of the times that treated every person on the far left as a traitor. The play takes place in 1999, 18 months after the grandfather has died. His granddaughter Emma has just graduated from law school and started a legal defense fund to promote his ideals. Her dreams, values, and career are tied up with the heroic image of her grandfather, and then she learns he wasn’t who he seemed to be.

It’s a dilemma that’s been faced by other families, such as the televangelist who’s caught paying for the services of a male prostitute, the politician who highly embellishes his military service or family background, or the father who everyone thought was a genius businessman but instead has been running a ponzi scheme, and, of course, the lesser and more common experience of finding out at sixteen that your parents simply aren’t as perfect as you once thought they were at six.

The drama and the comedy of “After the Revolution” is in how Emma reacts to learning about her grandfather’s unsavory past, a past about to be revealed to the world in a new book. And it’s also where the play (and casting) runs into some trouble. Emma is not a sympathetic character because she suffers from the same fault of almost everyone on the far left or far right – she’s filled with self-righteousness. The fault is partly in how she’s written, and even more so in how she’s played by Jackie Rivera, who goes more for the anger than the hurt, more for the petulance than the vulnerability. You begin to feel sorrier for her family and boyfriend than you do for her. The rest of the cast find more shadings and nuance in their performances, such as Gordon McConnell as her father, Nancy Barnett as her stepmother, and particularly Howard Elfman as a kindly and wise benefactor who learned long ago that the bigger the man, the more likely, the bigger the fault.

 

One Year Later and Still Going Strong

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J Mark’s Has Left Its Mark on the Fort Lauderdale Dining Scene

By TIM SLIVINSKI

It is nearly a rhetorical question:  Have you been to J Mark’s yet? After all, on any typical evening, it seems that you run into several of your friends and acquaintances when you walk in. And that, of course, is a testament to the appeal of this popular dining spot. It is a place that makes every guest feel comfortable and important—from the minute they enter. There are always smiles at the hostess stand, and Rebecca, with her infectious smile and graceful charm, is sure to stop by your table for a chat at some point. The bar is always humming with conversation and peals of laughter, and very soon, one of the best dining patios in Fort Lauderdale will be crowded once again.

Liking the hubbub and friendliness of the bar, my partner and I often opt for a seat there. J Mark’s is one of those places where the appetizers can easily constitute a meal, so after ordering a drink, we peruse our options. Though sliders have become a bit ubiquitous, I am a huge fan of the A-hi Tuna Sliders. At $13.99, they are a great deal and superbly delicious. Perfectly seared tuna with a zingy Cajun crust arrives on freshly made mini-buns. Avocado, red onion, crispy wontons and a remoulade all combine with the tuna to make a wonderful explosion of flavor in the mouth. Turn up the heat by adding a bit of wasabi and soy ginger. These sliders never fail to please. My partner prefers the Prime Rib Sliders ($12.99), though claiming not to be a prime rib fan. He loves the texture and perfectly cooked temperature of the prime rib and how it is layered on the mini-bun. They arrive with basil pesto and creamy horseradish, which kicks up the heat a bit. Dip them in warm au jus, and don’t worry if it dribbles down your chin.

Sliders are plated with a small batch of fries, so it is easy to make them an entrée.

When my appetite is a bit more on the hearty side, I tend to opt for J Mark’s Rib-eye ($24.99). It is an ample portion of steak, and it consistently arrives at my requested temperature. The menu serves it with Yukon Gold Mashed Potatoes, which are terrific and enough to feed four, but I often ask for a baked potato instead, highlighting another fact that makes J Mark’s so popular: They gladly and willingly make substitutions. There is never a quibble.

The boyfriend leans toward the pasta portion of the menu. He is particularly fond of the Veggie Lovers Pasta ($11.99). It offers an array of vegetables: broccoli, sun-dried tomatoes, roasted eggplant, peppers, and kalamata olives. Tossed in an olive oil and walnut basil pesto with penne, it has become a “go to” dish for him. Half of the overly generous serving almost always goes home for the next day’s lunch.

One of the newer offerings at J Mark’s is Saturday and Sunday brunch, featured from 11 a.m. until 3 p.m. Spicy bloody Marys or mimosas at $3.00 each get your late morning started in just the right way. Brunch offerings are listed on a separate menu and tempt with some unusual preparations. On a recent slightly less humid and cooler Sunday, our gracious and exceedingly competent waiter, Ralph,  kept us well liquefied in brunch cocktails and coffee. I have fallen in love with the Filet and Eggs ($12.99). Certified Angus Beef Tips are grilled to your desired temperature, and the dish arrives with beautifully poached eggs, homemade Hollandaise sauce, and breakfast potatoes, which are crispy, but not too much so. It is a hearty way to get my day going after a late Saturday. (Dining hint: I love to dip my breakfast potatoes in the Hollandaise. Yummy!)

For something completely unusual, try one of my partner’s favorites: the Cheese-burger Bennie ($13.99). Two superbly grilled patties, again done to your desired temperature, with cheddar cheese placed atop toasted English muffins. They are then finished with poached eggs and Hollandaise sauce. It sounds messy, and it is, but it is oh so good! I would never have believed it if I had not tried it. Other brunch choices include an egg white omelette ($9.99), an egg croissant sandwich ($9.99), breakfast egg rolls ($9.99), and several more variations on the traditional eggs benedict ($11.99-$15.99).

A comfortable bar and dining area, many menu options and price points, attentive and well-trained servers, great cocktails – it is all a part of the winning formula that keeps customers coming back to J Mark’s. Whether you want to enjoy a drink and an appetizer or a full-on meal, you will be graciously cared for. J Mark’s does it and does it well.

When A Film Becomes Known By One Word

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“The Ides of March” – “Moneyball” – “50/50”

By WARREN DAY

Photo: Brad P itt

and Jonah Hill in “Moneyball”

Three of the best films of 2011 are in theaters right now, three films that deserved to be seen by the widest audience possible, and yet they stand in danger of being sidelined by one off-putting word that might keep you and others from seeing them.

For “The Ides of March,” it’s the word “politics;” for “Moneyball,” it’s “baseball;” and for “50/50,” it’s the scariest word of them all, “cancer.” To say these three excellent movies are about those three words is like saying the movie “Titantic” is about drowning.  They may have as their backgrounds those three things, but what they are actually about is something far different and of a much bigger interest to the average moviegoer.

“The Ides of March” is a psychological thriller about the high-stakes games people play when they want power and when they feel threatened in their efforts to obtain it. It takes place during a highly-contested presidential primary, but it could take place in Wall Street, a network news division, the company where you work, or any place where the selection of one person could make or break other careers. It stars Ryan Gosling as someone who’s torn between his conscience and his ambitions (most of us have been in that situation to some degree). Along with “Crazy, Stupid, Love,” “Drive,” and now this movie, Gosling is having one sterling showcase of a year.  George Clooney also stars as the flawed Democratic candidate, and he also directed, produced, and co-wrote the screenplay. He does all of those things admirably. My qualm is that this movie feeds too easily into our cynicism that all politicians (and their staff) are shady  characters – but in the present national mood, many Republicans, Democrats, and even those who are apolitical, would say “Amen” to that.

“Moneyball” is from the bestselling, non-fiction book by the same author who wrote “The Blind Side.” It’s also an inspirational story about someone who decides that the way a certain business has been run, a major league baseball team in this case, is wrong and sets about breaking all the cherished rules. Brad Pitt as the real-life Billy Beane is mesmerizing, and Jonah Hill almost steals the movie in his first  dramatic part. The always good Philip Seymour Hoffman plays the beleagued team manager (he’s also in “Ides of March”). You don’t have to know baseball (any more than you have to like politics with “Ides of March”) to really enjoy watching an underdog go up against an entrenched establishment. It’s the kind of David and Goliath story that we never get tired of, particularly when it’s as well done as this one.

No other movie of this or any recent year walks so many tightropes as successfully as does “50/50.” Like “Moneyball,” it is based on a true story, and it contains laughs and insights that could only come from a writer who’s lived it. “50/50” is one of the funniest films of the year, and yes it is about a 27-year-old (Joseph Gordon-Levitt) who has cancer. The laughs (and the tears) come from how he, his best friend (Seth Rogen in his finest role), his girlfriend, his therapist, and his mother (Anjelica Houston in a comeback role) react to that situation. It’s as emotionally moving as it is funny and one of the movies where you leave the theater feeling that sometimes the good guy does indeed finish first.

One thing all three of these films have in common is that they contain some of the best acting to be seen on the screen this year. Brad Pitt and Joseph Gordon-Levitt deserve nominations for Best Actor, and George Clooney, Philip Seymour Hoffman, Jonah Hill and Anjelina Huston warrant strong consideration in the Best Supporting category.

And these films remind us to be cautious whenever someone tries to sum up any movie, person, or idea in a single word, because we all know how wrong that can be when one word has been applied to ourselves–whether that word is gay or straight, young or old, white or black.

If you want to see a really depressing movie, then see the ridiculously bad “Abduction” with Taylor Lautner, but if you want an exciting and fulfilling evening at the movies, make your way now to “The Ides of March,” “Moneyball,” and “50/50.”  Your mind, your soul, and your funny-bone will be glad you did.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Startle the Taste Buds, Sooth the Senses

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Upscale Dining at Neighborhood Prices

MICHELE’S DINING LOUNGE
2761 E OAKLAND PARK BLVD,
OAKLAND PARK, FL
954-533-1919

By RICHARD HACK

Sweep into Michele’s Dining Lounge and enter a world of sophisticated elegance. Beige, browns and shades of mocha cradle customers in a warm embrace that stands in stunning denial of its strip mall home where the restaurant neighbors with a hair salon, a cigar emporium, and a day spa complete with thai massage.

Inside, however, is where the magic begins. A mirrored water-wall greets you at the entrance, while subtle lighting sets the stage for what promises to be a very special occasion. This is restaurateur Michele Bonarigo’s place, and she brings no small amount of talent to the table. She grew up in upstate New York working in eateries owned by her father and uncles, and learned her lessons well. Now it’s her turn to run the show, and Michele’s Dining Lounge has found an audience of swagged guests who fill the place to capacity on Tuesday through Saturday evenings.

The comprehensive menu comes equipped with clever LED lighting for the visually challenged – all the better to see the smart array of appetizers, entrees and desserts that tempt through descriptions that ooze with flavor even before you’ve made a selection.
We elected to start with flash-fried calamari with a pomodoro reduction ($10), escargots en croûte ($15)—snails in puff pastry in any other language, and a pan-fried jumbo lump crab cake ($15) with a spicy red pepper coulis.

All well-chosen selections, though slightly heavy on sauces that unnecessarily masked the delicacies of the dishes.

At $24, the grilled salmon entrée was a celebration in flavors – coconut, curry, and lime accenting a flawlessly prepared six-ounce portion. The medium-rare filet blue ($34), otherwise known as nine-ounces of heaven, was served on a square white plate that accented the amazingly juicy steak, sautéed asparagus and grilled portabella mushrooms, highlighted by a blue cheese sauce that drizzled perfection. And none of us could resist tasting the roasted pork tenderloin ($24) with wilted baby arugula in an apple/fig glaze that was presented on the plate in a design worthy of an art award. We’re told the dish is a specialty of chef Michael Kridlow.

We believe it!

Our server recommended the Francis Ford Coppola’s Director’s Cut Cabernet Sauvignon ($13 a glass), which displayed tones of cherry and chassis, and was such an excellent complement to the meal that seconds were ordered before our plates were licked cleaned.

Of course, there’s always room for dessert – at least at our table – with votes lodged for the lemon tart with raspberry sauce ($8), the apple streusel with ice cream and caramel sauce ($7.50), and the crème brûlée ($8) – three forks please. Since no one was eager to accept a proxy, we ordered them all and shared the decadence. Everyone knows that calories don’t count when you hold your breath, and that was exactly what we did at the first indulgent taste.

If you’re in the mood for a lighter nosh, there is a separate menu available only at the bar offering appetizers at $10 per item. A personal favorite is the dynamic Ahi Tuna Sliders with wasabi aioli and Asian slaw on a challah bun. Show up at barside for Happy Hour between 5 p.m. and 7 p.m. and get an amazing 50% off on food and drink.

Michele’s Dining Lounge is open for dinner Tuesday through Saturday evenings from 5 p.m. until 11 p.m. with lunch served Tuesday through Friday 11:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. Tuesday, by the way, is LA-TEA-DA night with $5 mojitos and cosmos filling the 10-ounce glassware. Wednesday night features the glamorous songstress Chris Janes. Her trilling begins at 7 p.m. sharp. Thursday evening, Cecilia Roy takes control of the white baby grand and adds jazz to the mix from 7 p.m.

On Friday, the piano stylings of Sal Fazio hold court at 5 p.m., followed by the note  perfect Lavon the Sax Man Extraordinaire at full volume starting at 8 p.m. (Forget about talking when Lavon takes control of the mike.) Sal Fazio repeats on Saturday at  8 p.m. to finish the week with an elegant touch.

The restaurant boasts the slogan, “Upscale Dining at Neighborhood Prices.” While I don’t know what neighborhood you come from, from where I sit, this is not an inexpensive night on the town. However, given the quality of the food, the elegant setting, the friendly efficient staff, and the mix of movers and shakers who’ll become your new best friends, Michele’s Dining Lounge is worth every single penny. Save up your cash and go, ASAP.

PL8 Kitchen Is What Modern Diners Want – “Small Plates for Big Appetites”

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By TIM SLIVINKSI

Contemporary dining trends have been undergoing a quiet but steady revolution in the last couple years. Diners have moved away from ordering entrees that are often far too large and instead selecting appetizers as their main course. In realizing this ongoing trend, the owners of what was once the Himmarshee Bar and Grill have revamped their restaurant to accommodate the desires of today’s patrons. And that’s where PL8 Kitchen comes in. It offers a fun, eclectic menu of several small plate options designed for sharing, grazing, and nibbling. It’s a concept that allows diners to try several options on the menu rather than focusing on only one entrée.  Once you see the menu, you will be very glad that the small plate sizes allow for trying several of the delicious options.

It was a quiet Monday evening, threatening rain, when my partner and I decided to give PL8 Kitchen a try. As we were seated in the very industrial looking dining room, Rachel, our gracious and helpful server, efficiently explained the PL8 concept to us. We ordered a cocktail. (Note: The classic Manhattan I ordered was among the best I have ever had.) We then began the difficult task of narrowing down our choices from a menu that creatively uses ingredients to describe everything in a mouth-watering manner.

For our first round—we already knew there would be more than one—we selected a local arugula and corn salad ($8), the cast iron mac n’ cheese (a big surprise at $6), and the shiitake mushroom sliders ($8). As with most small plate and tapas-style eateries, food is prepared to order and served at the table when ready. First to arrive was the salad. Beautifully green, snappy, peppery arugula was dressed with a sherry vinaigrette. The salad was dotted with corn and smoked almond slices, which added texture and crunch. A sliced strawberry completed the presentation. It was light, fresh, summery, and tasty. Next came the mac n’ cheese, creatively served in a small cast iron skillet. It arrived bubbly hot, and I needed to dive in quickly. Each evening the cheese changes, so ask your server.

Rachel informed us that smoked gouda was the main cheese on our Monday visit. It was creamy and rich, and rather than being mere pasta and cheese, the dish offered broccoli, peas, and bacon. I was skeptical at first, but left not one bit in the skillet.

The shiitake sliders made their entrance next. Many may be weary of the slider trend, but creative chefs are moving beyond the burger slider to offer unique takes on the little sandwiches. That’s exactly the case at PL8. The shiitake sliders are a combination of spinach, grilled tomato, mozzarella, grilled red onion, and a balsamic aioli. They were rich and delicious, and we did not miss the beef at all. PL8 additionally offers sliders in chicken, scallop, bratwurst and beef varieties.

We took a break, sipped another cocktail before ordering round two. After glancing through our menu options,
we decided to try out the chicken “chimichangas” ($10) and the oh-so-decadent-sounding duckfat-roasted marble potatoes ($5).

When Rachel brought the potatoes to our table, the aroma alone told me I was in love. They are bite-sized potatoes that carry a hint of the richness of the duckfat, sprinkled with coarse sea salt. Simple, but delicious. The chicken “chimichangas” are unlike any other dish with this name that I have ever had. Put the deep-fried idea out of your mind. Deliciously seasoned chicken sits atop a crispy tortilla. The chicken is complemented by pickled shallots, sour cream, and chipotle cream. Another crispy ring that looks like a cookie sits on top. Somehow, it all works. They are well-seasoned, cool and hot, and fun to eat.

We were pleasantly full and enjoying winding down for the evening, but I had one more request.

I wanted to try one of PL8’s brick oven pizzas, reasoning that what we could not eat would easily become lunch the next day. We asked Rachel to bring us the meatball pizza option ($9). The pizza crust had a great crunch without being overly charred. The generous toppings offered rich and creamy ricotta cheese, tangy san marzano tomato sauce, mozzarella, and the meatballs. It was cut into six slices, perfect for sharing. Once again, we had scored a winner. (It was equally good the next day for lunch too.)

PL8 Kitchen is a great addition to the Fort Lauderdale dining scene as it clearly understands what today’s diners are looking for. I look forward to a return visit soon because there are still many “pl8s” I want to sample.

 

PL8 KITCHEN
210 SW 2nd STREET, FT. LAUDERDALE, FL
954-524-1818

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