Florida Agenda

By PAUL RUBIO

Read: The Many Sides of Bali Part I: “New Bali”

Found along the island’s east coast and deep in its interior, the area known as “Traditional Bali” captures the island’s timeless spirit, still flourishing in today’s globalized world and unwavering in its cultural foundations. It is here, far removed from the chaos of the modern world, where you’ll lose yourself in the heartfelt hospitality of daily village life, the rewarding treks through rice fields, the burgeoning indigenous arts and craft scene, the odalan ceremonies held at Bali’s “1000 temples” and the pilgrimages to reach them. This is the Bali of fairytales and coffee table books, a land of spiritual awakenings and an invitation to journey to a time bygone.

Coastal brilliance notwithstanding, the country’s rich interior is the pinnacle of the island’s aesthetic and ethnic grandeur. The city of Ubud and its proximate villages showcase the island’s living culture, where eclectic artists interpret the modernization of traditional living, where esteemed Balinese architecture abounds, where village elders trek through the gates of mountaintop luxury hotels to fetch holy water from the temples below, and where the Agung River breathes life into all who grow around her. A seamless amalgamation of alternating levels of dense forest and rice terraces – an unwavering landscape of everlasting vertical and horizontal greens – this is the Bali of legends, the realization of wanderlust and life experience.

Within this sphere of Zen, it is possible to reside either in the heart of the cultural action or on the periphery, engrossed in the natural environment. The centrally located, luxury boutique hotel, Uma Ubud (uma.ubud.como.bz), and the more lavish Amandari (amanresorts.com) lie in the epicenter of Ubud’s prolific arts scene. Both boast the full throttle Eat, Pray, LOVE Ubud experience and are a short drive from renowned yoga centers, cooking schools, and convivial villages where healers, wood carvers, and silversmiths carry on the customs of generations past. A bit further afield, the COMO Shambhala Estate (cse.como.bz) is the evergreen of Ubud inspiration and enlightenment, providing breathtaking backdrops, utter luxury, and outlets for physical stimulation, combining for an end product of unparalleled mental invigoration.

Organized as 3, 5, and 7-day wellness programs, the personal sojourn at COMO Shambhala Estate begins with a consultation from the in-house Aryuvedic doctor, who prepares a bespoke itinerary for time spent at The Estate. Days alternate between spa treatments, hilltop yoga and Pilates classes, jungle treks, and unapologetic relaxation, interspersed by guiltless indulgence in innovative organic meals and revitalizing juices. The suggested structure leaves ample time for a cathartic journey of self, where getting lost around the 23-acre estate and exploring the natural spring pools hugging the mountain’s edge, delighting in the sounds and sights of nature at the riverbank, reflecting on personal achievement, or testing physical fitness at the bonafide “jungle gym” are all options.  Accommodations are structured as five luxury “residences” and five “retreat villas,” with the full gamut of haute resort offerings showcased through individualistic motifs like fire, water, and earth. For example, Tejasuara or “Sound of Fire” is a residence where understated design flawlessly tempers the darkness of

the dominant Sumba stone and black bamboo, illuminated by the fire pit that burns beside the sparkling infinity pool.

Indeed, it seems ironic that an island celebrated for its coastal majesty boasts some of its greatest treasures inland. In fact, Bali’s fortunes are everywhere – superbly distributed over its vast volcanoes, lush mountains, and its remote and crowded beaches where timeless villages and show-stopping resorts co-exist in harmony. This multi-faceted island has evolved as a land of diverse escapism, ripe with endless opportunity for adventure, vacation, and self-reflection in the presence of living history and natural wonder.

Next week, Part III: The Rustic East

By PAUL RUBIO

Bali. The name alone parlays an image of tranquility, wanderlust, exoticism, and romanticism. It conjures visions of a far-off land, blessed with eternal natural beauty and time-honored culture. This island utopia, sandwiched between the Indian Ocean and the Bali Sea, captivated hoteliers more than three decades ago, who took the risk of developing property on a densely forested, volcanic sand beach in a village called Seminyak. It was difficult to predict then that, from the late seventies onward, a mad scramble for Bali’s coastline would ensue, desperately satiating the world’s growing appetite for sun-drenched bliss and cultural tourism smack in the heart of the vast Indonesian archipelago.

For village elders, modern day Bali is hardly recognizable in its highly globalized southernmost reaches. This area, dubbed “New Bali” by locals and expats alike, consists of the southern mainland and a small peninsula housing the highly popular and populated regions of Nusa Dua, Uluwatu, Jimbaran Bay, Kuta, Legian, and Seminyak. It is here where the majority of high-end tourism development continues, often delivering show-stopping flagship hotels and iconic resorts well worth the exhausting long haul.

However, limiting an epic journey within “New Bali” or South Bali forgoes the essence of Southeast Asia’s island gem – “Traditional Bali,” which we’ll explore in the second and third part of this series.

Anchored by the surfer hotspot, Kuta, South Bali has evolved as the archetypal holiday destination, catering to all budgets and lifestyles. While Kuta fulfills a niche for HOT Aussie backpackers living on $20/day, neighboring Seminyak and Legian house a mix of mid-range and high-end accommodations to complement the world-class shopping, restaurant and nightlife scene that have advanced this highly touristic zone. Though not recommended as a stand-alone reason to visit Bali, all visitors invariably end up at Seminyak and Legian at some point on their journey, due to its proximity to the international airport or because they are eager to experience Indonesia’s most progressive metropolis equivalent. Big-city sophistication concentrates on this small stretch of dark volcanic sands, including obligatory sunset cocktails at the legendary and gay-friendly Ku De Ta or the worldly, rooftop SOS Supper Club, and dinner at the restaurant leading Bali’s foodie revolution, Sarong. Come late night, most of the bars, gay or otherwise, are located along Seminyak’s nightlife thoroughfare – Jalan Dyana Pura. Since the main gay club, Q Bar, closed down for repairs and has yet to set a reopening date, the gay scene tends to congregate on weekends at Bali Joe and Mixwell, with their wildly popular drag shows and campy pop music.

There’s even a loose version of a gay beach in Seminyak, referred to as Taman Ganesha Beach or Petitenget Beach or Callego Beach (near the Oberoi Hotel, in front of Callego Café). It’s not the nicest stretch of sand and you’ll hardly find more than a handful of wanderers also searching for this elusive gay beach. The main problem is that lounge chairs are prohibited on the beach; and the beach itself is dangerously rough, so there’s no reason to “hang out” on the beach more than a mere stroll or amble.

In general, Bali’s definitely more of a couples’ than a singles’ destination, though gay Javanese guys often make the trek here to free themselves of the conservative confines of their home island. It’s a hotspot for Asian-Western gay couples living in Asia or gay westerners experiencing SE Asia, looking for some of the world’s coolest and eclectic hotels.

Speaking of hotels, the all-suite Anantara Seminyak (online at bali.anantara.com), is ideal for a weekend jaunt immersed in “New Bali’s” young hustle, bustle, and evolving vanguard scene. The gregarious pool scene, the crowd, and the modern luxury design stand reminiscent of South Beach’s preeminent trendsetting hotels, with the added bonus of an outdoor Jacuzzi and daybed to watch Bali’s sunsets from the privacy of your own balcony. With just 59 suites and stellar staff, the Anantara Seminyak delivers a more personalized, boutique version of its mammoth party-time neighbor, the W Retreat & Spa Bali (online at whotels.com/baliseminyak).

Further afield, along the southernmost tip of the peninsula, The Banyan Tree Ungasan (banyantree.com), also flaunts an ultra-glam factor, about half an hour from the rapidly beating pulse of “New Bali.” The remarkable all-villa enclave straddles a picturesque precipice, emphasizing the perfect contemporary design blend of height, light, and space. While its sumptuous fusion of outdoors and indoors echoes a constant “wow” factor, one feature indisputably impresses the most – the glass-paneled doors opening directly onto each villa’s frangipani-fringed infinity pool.

Finally, sagacious beach lovers gravitate towards Nusa Dua on the peninsula’s east side – one of the only spots on Bali to sport luscious, golden and white, downy sands. The superlative hotel here, Amanusa (amanresorts.com), towers over the manicured gardens and forest patches, perched on a hillside that offers stunning panoramas of sparkling greens and oceanic blues. Unlike Nusa Dua’s recent cookie-cutter construction, Amanusa’s 32 spacious villas retain a distinctive indigenous flair, each temple-like structure complete with a full suite of luxury offerings, including the decadent outdoor shower and queen-sized bale, and private pool in nine suites. The quintessential relaxing “beach vacation” materializes over long, lazy days at Amanusa’s Beach Club, via the idyllic mingling of crystalline waters, impeccable service, and exclusivity.

Click to Read : The Many Sides of Bali Part II: The Rich Interior

By Paul Rubio

Part Vegas. Part Miami. All fabulous. The recent re-launch of the iconic Fontainebleau Miami Beach has forever changed the landscape of Miami Beach. After a whopping billion dollars in upgrades and additions, the 22-acre, 1504-room oceanfront mega hotel stands as a self-contained world of hotel indulgence, great shopping, exceptional dining, wild partying, and beachside relaxation and frivolity.

Though the hotel’s reinvention has brought it back into the spotlight as one of Miami’s hottest hotels, the Fontainebleau Miami Beach has a long history of being Miami Beach’s “it” hotel. In fact, the mystique of Fontainebleau Miami Beach has hypnotized the world since the art deco movement reached its peak in the subtropics in the 1950s. Morris Lapidus’ masterpiece was seen as a paragon of fashion, glamour, and evolving avant-garde, presenting a worldly style unknown to most parts of the United States in tandem with a fledgling progressive beach culture. The hotel became a magnet for Hollywood film stars and the backdrop of movies like “Scarface,” “The Bodyguard,” and “The Specialist.” The Fontainebleau became synonymous with Miami Beach.

Thankfully, the majority of the Art Deco architecture and treasures that once defined the Fontainebleau Miami Beach remain with the post-millennium reinvention. They’ve just had a slight nip and tuck to look fresh and young and sparkle with a veneer like shine. In fact, right before reopening the hotel earned its place in the prestigious list of US National Register of Historic Places.

Since then, it’s been all about keeping history in style while taking the Miami Beach experience to yet another level.

The hotel’s massive expansions are a size queen’s fantasy, with arcades of shops and world-renowned restaurants (including Gotham Steak by Michelin-star chef Alfred Portale, Scarpetta
by Scott Conant, Michelin-starred Hakkasan from London, Blade Sushi and La Côte), big pimpin’ nightclubs, and several pool areas. And lest we forget Bleau Live, which has hosted headlining tours by the likes of Lady Gaga, Maroon 5, Katy Perry, Miami’s own Pitbull and our LGBT favorite Ricky Martin. (Don’t miss Ricky live again Saturday Nov. 26 and do yourself a favor and make a weekend out of it!)

With its uber-sexy lobby, super-hyped nightclub LIV, live music venue, restaurant juggernauts, and plethora of common spaces, the hotel reigns as the place to see and be seen in Miami Beach. Indeed, it reinstates the fashion novelty that placed it on the map more than half a century ago and reminds us of a Golden Era glamour when Elvis Presley and the Rat Pack once performed at the hotel and partied like it was 1999 in their rooms. The legend of beautiful people, celebrities, fashionistas, and hipsters has generated a self-fulfilling prophecy, as stunning men and women from around the world come to the hotel to outshine one another and hence keep the Fontainebleau an upscale alternative to the South Beach scene.

For the ultimate Miami Beach staycation or vacation, visit fontainebleau.com; 1-800-548-8886.

By PAUL RUBIO

One of the world’s hottest LGBT destinations just got a bit hotter. In early 2011, the Riviera Palm Springs Resort & Spa (psriviera.com, 760-327-8311) removed the bandages from a 75 million dollar facelift to the iconic Palm Springs Hotel; and the city hasn’t been the same since!

Just like Timberlake brought sexy back, the Riviera is bringing Palm Springs glamour back. The eccentric and eclectic hotel pays homage to the hotel’s former glory years with a vintage luxe edge that keeps history in style. This forward thinking throwback bursts with energy, originality, and pimped out personality.

Spread over vast acreage in the shadow of the towering mountains of the Coachella Valley, the Riviera Palm Springs is a retro design fantasy come to life. The chocolate and mint “face off” in the hallways honors a color palette of a decade when the Palm Springs Hotel was synonymous with the term “swingers” while the tufted headboards and the Neapolitan striped throw pillows are another example of fabulous sixties redux.

The conservation piece furnishings and art in the common lounge will have you tweeting a zillion characters per second. The mirror-partitioned lobby lounge is adorned with larger than life facial portraits of Hollywood vixens, constructed from old Central American coins (think “Half Breed” Cher in silver) and then complimented with British country-style Chesterfield couches and maroon shag carpets. Throw some tufted gold lounges in the mix with a glittery pool table and some wild glass chandeliers, and the gentleman’s club-inside-a-disco-ball theme gets over-the-top fabulous.

Head to the lobby proper and the white patent leather seats have been sewn together to form an innovative high-rise couch seat platform, topped with Victorian lanterns that reflect off the roof’s twinkling skylights. Go even further and land in the hotel’s signature restaurant, Circa 59, decked out in red leather upholstered booths and chairs, backlit lattice cutouts, and jumbo crystal chandeliers that spill onto the hotel’s renowned center of attention, the historic pool area.

Yes … this is the pool featured in the 1963 film “Palm Springs Weekend” with Connie Stevens and Robert Conrad, the pool where the Hollywood elite partied hard in the 1960s, where the Rat Pack, Elvis, Sonny & Cher would unwind and help develop a global ideology of “Lifestyles of the Rich & Famous.”

The hedonistic overtones of the 1960s prevail around the swimming pool, where an intoxicating mix of cocktails, sunshine, and vacation mentality catalyze days of naughty fun and relaxation. Unlike the sixties, however, there are now private cabanas, glowing fireplaces, and gays who can serve openly in the military splashing around. Still don’t expect things to get too crazy around the pool.

This hotel may have a history of “swinging times” but it’s not the clothing-optional shenanigans of All Worlds Resort
(allworldsresorts.com) or Camp Palm Springs (camp-palm-springs.com). Palm Springs’ repeat LGBT guests know that there is a difference in where to stay and where to play. You stay at the Riviera Palm Springs. You play at one of the resorts with a day pass or visit the city’s prolific offerings of gay bars by night.

Indeed the Riviera Palm Springs is wildly popular with a younger gay demographic for its style, funk, welcoming  (and easy-on-the-eyes) crowd, and pampering essentials – exceptional spa, amazing eats, excellent gym. There’s no shortage of quiet spots around the property to appreciate the gifts of Mother Nature, from towering trees and majestic canyons to the bluest of blue skies that dazzle with constellations come nightfall. Yet Palm Springs is so much more than this awesome historic hotel, cocktails around the pool and trouble in clandestine corners! It is also super stargazing, great hiking, intrepid adventure, and mind-boggling landscapes. Though it’s sometimes hard to break away from anything within stumbling distance of the hotel, shake off your hang over one morning or evening to go beyond Palm Spring’s downtown and appreciate the region’s natural magnificence.  You won’t regret it (though you may regret that last cocktail once you’re 8,516 ft high over vertical cliffs of Chino Canyon!)

For an amazing gay-friendly Palm Springs getaway, head to the Riviera Palm Springs Resort & Spa – psriviera.com,
760-327-8311.

By Paul Rubio

Outside of plane delays and unforeseen inclement weather, one of the biggest frustrations of traveling overseas is the challenge of money loss via bad exchange rates. Simply put: nobody likes to see money devalued in a Madonna-esque “Impressive Instant.” It doesn’t seem like the US dollar will triumph the Euro or the British Pound anytime soon, but you can save 3-10% of your dollar value by adhering to a few essential tips on your international travels.

Charge Away – A number of credit cards have upped the incentives for charging purchases abroad. The American Express Platinum Card has removed its 3% foreign transaction fee, charging purchases at the official market rate. Several Chase credit cards have followed suit – including the British Airways Visa Signature Card and the Chase Continental Presidential Plus Mastercard. Using these “no transaction fee” credit cards is the best way to save money; you even earn points on your purchases (and you can track your spending).

Cash Reserves – It’s always a smart idea to carry cash if traveling somewhere remote. If you need ready money, don’t bother exchanging currency before your trip. All major international airports have ATMs in the arrivals area; and official bank ATM exchange rates via debit card withdrawal are superior to the rates of exchange counters (e.g. Bank of America charges only a 1% currency fee on cash withdrawals abroad).

Get with the times – American Express Travelers Cheques are as dated as $40 barrels of oil.

True, the cheques come with extra security if lost or stolen, but fewer and fewer places accept them. On average, your dollar is devalued by 5-10% by using travelers cheques because foreign banks offer inferior exchange rates upon conversion. If you are adamant about using Travelers Cheques, buy them online from American Express in the correct foreign currency before your departure (instead of US dollars).

Airport Exchange – If you are one of those people that physically enjoys changing currency as a right of travel passage, first verify the official market exchange rates online or on your high-tech phone. Exchange rate counters in airports prey on tourists unaware of the real market rate and often fool them with a “no commission” policy. There may be no commission per se, but these exchange rates are vastly different than market rates, resulting in large differentials against your favor. When in doubt, check XE – Universal Currency Converter (www.xe.com/ucc).

In total, you’ll never be able to avoid fluctuations in global currencies, but you CAN avoid the heavy fees and trickery designed to evaporate your riches!

By Paul Rubio

Photo: The lovely Kuala Lumpur skyline

Often overlooked on the Southeast Asia tourist trail, Malaysia shines as the continent’s cultural melting pot, where disparate flavors, trends, and customs create a single nation. Though the country stands divided ethnically and politically between its diverse Malay, Chinese, and Indian populations, for the average tourist Malaysia is a cultural wonderland, flaunting a world showcase of intriguing opulence, bizarre foods, and social conundrums.

Most Americans will recognize the country’s capital, Kuala Lumpur (called by “KL” locals), from the 1999 hit film, Entrapment, with Sean Connery and Catherine Zeta-Jones. The then-world’s tallest buildings, the Petronas Twin Towers (petronastwintowers.com.my), formed the backdrop for the characters’ final heist, engulfing the skyline, jetting 1200 feet towards the heavens. Though the Petronas Twin Towers lost its tiara as the world’s tallest building in 2004 to a Taiwanese skyscraper, it’s still one of Kuala Lumpur’s most impressive, mind-boggling attractions and just the beginning of a city filled with unexpected surprises!

Malaysia’s Grand Dame

An entire village dedicated to both business and leisure envelops KL’s twin towers. The surrounding Kuala Lumpur City Center or KLCC (klcc.com.my) houses outdoor parks, recreation centers, and the mother of all shopping malls, with every upscale store imaginable spread over three connecting mega-malls, an entire floor of Asian restaurants, and two floors of food courts (You’ll quickly realize that shopping and eating are Malaysia’s two national pastimes). Naturally, the city’s premiere hotel, the Mandarin Oriental, Kuala Lumpur, (mandarinoriental.com/kualalumpur) is also found smack dab in the center of the KLCC neighborhood, doling out prime views of the twin towers and city’s magical skyline.

The Mandarin Oriental, Kuala Lumpur offers instant immersion into the finest ingredients of the KL melting pot, fusing western trends with Asian inspiration. The guest rooms and suites exude Mandarin Oriental’s signature sophisticated Asian style with elegant wood furnishings accessorized by tasteful gold and copper drapes, pillows, and linens that sparkle in the reflection of the KL skyline.

The view-heavy outdoor pool area satisfies the western hunger for sun-drenched afternoons filled with delicious cocktails and poolside relaxation. The hotel’s ten food and beverage outlets reflect the country’s diversity with venues that have become true social and eating institutions. For example, Lai Po Heen, the hotel’s contemporary Cantonese restaurant, teems with sexy, multinational businessmen and fabulous lunch ladies (ready to become the next Real Housewives of Kuala Lumpur) sampling traditional Chinese specialties like “Bird’s Nest Soup” and more regional items such as the “Crepe Durian Pancakes.“ Downstairs at Casbah, the party rages nightly at the hotel’s trendy Arabian-style lounge, packed with glamorous socialites in the latest couture.

A bit more understated, the Mandarin Oriental Club Lounge caters to both business travelers and leisure travelers with ample space for work and relaxation, along with multiple opportunities to delight in local and regional dishes at breakfast, afternoon tea or during cocktail hour.  You may not have quite the variety of the famed food hawker stalls of Jalan Alor but you may very well find your plate filled with dishes like pineapple fritters, curry fish head, banana leaf rice, roti canai, and otak otak.

Not to Miss

Though you can literally eat your way through the Mandarin Oriental Kuala Lumpur and endlessly bask in the hotel’s luxury offerings, it’s worth spending several days exploring the greater city. After living in KL for over a year, these are my top sights not to miss!

Lake Gardens and Independence Square – With postcard perfect views, Independence Square faces the elaborate and lavish Sultan’s building, also known as KL’s “Big Ben.” A short walk away, the highly manicured Lake Gardens area is home to the National Butterfly Park (once the largest in the world), a Deer Park, an Orchid Park, a Hibiscus Park, a Bird Park and a National Planetarium. Prepare to see curious monkeys by the roadside, in trees and on fences, preening each other, jumping from branch to branch, and trying to balance themselves on telephone wires.

Brickfields Blind Massage – This micro-enterprise supports the independence and prosperity of blind individuals, who are trained as massage therapists, using their impeccable sense of touch.  Everyone from the secretary to the cleaning people and the masseuses are blind; and the massages are divine!

Batu Caves – This sacred Hindu shrine on the outskirts of town is a must see. You’ll be out of breath after the 350 stairs to the cave entrance, but soon you’ll succumb to the overpowering nature of the cave. About half a million people come here during the Thiapuism festival in January, when Hindus repent by piercing their faces and bodies with spears and fishhooks. Most men will put about 50 large fishhooks through their chest or backs and stick a rod from one cheek to another, going through the mouth. You have to see it to believe it. Oh, and don’t feed the monkeys!

Kampung Kuantan – This day/evening trip to the Selangor River allows you to enjoy a night float down the river to watch masses of fireflies (kelip kelip) congregate and light up the entire sky!

Blue Boy – Malaysia’s oldest gay club is still its most popular. It’s definitely no frills and a bit rough around the edges but it’s a guaranteed good time! There’s an undeniable gay presence in Malaysia despite government efforts to quell the country’s  gay scene. Nightlife is often segregated between Muslim Malays, who patronize Blue Boy, and Chinese Malays who frequent an ever-changing array of “mixed” trendy nightclubs. Utopia-Asia.com provides up to the minute listings.

The pool at the Mandarin Oriental, Kuala Lumpur

A suite at the Mandarin Oriental, Kuala Lumpur

By Paul Rubio

More than an epicenter of historical and religious reverence, Israel (goisrael.com) is a land of amazing eats, gorgeous men, sensational beaches, superb wineries, big city sophistication, more gorgeous men, and iconoclastic multiculturalism.

On my recent trip to the Holy Land, I crammed in as much as possible in three short days. Beginning in Haifa, then heading east to Tiberias, south to Jerusalem, and finishing in Tel Aviv, Israel never failed to disappoint. Its diverse and eclectic vibe was infectious and completely won me over.

My 72-hour whirlwind journey started in Haifa, Israel’s third largest city. I ambled through the Baha’i Gardens and stopped for a number of Kodak moments overlooking the city on the slopes of Mount Carmel. Next on the agenda was the ancient Phoenician
and Crusader seaport of Akko (akko.org.il/English/ main/default.asp), a UNESCO World Heritage Site that teems with the modern sights and sounds of an Arab marketplace while standing tall as one of the oldest continuously inhabited sites in Israel. Towards the afternoon, I drove to the Sea of Galilee to tour some of the Christian historical and holy sites, including Capernaum, the “City of Jesus,” and the Mount of Beatitudes, site of the Sermon on the Mount.

After religious overload, I spent the night in Tiberias, the capital of the Lower Galilee, at the Scots Hotel (scotshotels.co.il), and gorged on platters of divine fresh seafood with hand cut fries and onion rings at the waterfront Decks restaurant (israel-guide.com/lidogalilee/decks/ index.html).

The following day, I ventured south through the West Bank to Jerusalem, beginning my day with the picture-perfect panoramic views of this ancient city from the Mount of Olives. Once inside the walls of the old city, I discovered all four quarters of Old Jerusalem, exploring every major historical and religious site like Via Dolorosa (Stations of the Cross), the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, and Judaism’s most sacred site, the Western Wall (but not before a break for Middle Eastern delights in the Arab Market.) I checked into the posh Mamilla Hotel, (mamillahotel.com) where eclectic modernist interiors prevail behind a splendid façade that camouflages with the old city. The new Mammilla Hotel is the country’s most design savvy, with a few surprise elements I’ve yet to see anywhere else in the world – like the tri-partitioned colossal glass bathroom, which turns from contemporary peepshow to private sanctuary when you push a switch to release liquid crystals to frost the enveloping glass walls. Sounds almost too cool to believe? Well it is!

Before leaving Jerusalem on the third day of our “Intense Israel” itinerary, I spent the morning at Yad Vashem (yadvashem.org), the National Memorial and Museum of the Holocaust – definitely heavy on the soul but beautifully and artistically presented. By mid afternoon, I had arrived in Tel Aviv, Israel’s bustling cultural center, ripe with a beachfront buzz, world famous nightlife, and its NYC – style frenetic pace. It was a Monday night, but there was no shortage of party options (and eye candy) to keep me going until the next morning! Though the nightclub Lima Lima fell from hetero-grace in late 2010, it’s Monday night gay night is the hottest ticket in town. At 1 a.m., the club was jam packed with way-too-many hot army boys, looking to start their week off with a bang … literally!

On a more serious note, throughout my visit, my tour guides always made it a point to explain Israel’s importance in world history, far more than its current role as a religious and political puppet. They introduced me to religions and peoples I knew little about – like the Baha’i and Druze – and how these groups prosper in modern-day Israel. They also made it a point to show me the Israel we never see or hear about – Muslims, Christians, and Jews working together, eating in each other’s restaurants, and living in their own world of mutual respect. I discovered an Israel so different than I had imagined – one, which quickly instigated an insatiable desire to return and explore further.

Photos courtesy, Paul Rubio

By PAUL RUBIO

Photo: Trevi Fountain in Rome, Italy

Last month, I ventured to the Holy Land on the sophomore voyage of the new Celebrity Silhouette (celebritycruises.com) cruise ship. With an itinerary that includes Italy, Israel, and Greece, the ports for Celebrity’s Holy Land tour are a far cry from the cheesy same-old, same-old like Nassau and Cozumel. Two of my favorite ports are highlighted below.

Rome
Never one to turn down time in the Eternal City, I often opt for a few nights of pre or post-cruise fun in Rome, the common point of embarkation for European voyages on the high seas. For my Celebrity Silhouette sailing, I arrived in Rome three days early, giving me enough time to adjust for jetlag and tear up one of my favorite cities in the world!

Upon arriving, I checked into my exclusive hotel, smack in the heart of the city in the shadow of the Spanish Steps – Portrait Suites Rome (lungarnocollection.com). This exclusive fourteen room micro hotel, above Rome’s famed Ferragamo store, bursts with the eclectic personality and refinement of its shoe-making, show-stopping owner, Salvatore Ferragamo.

These fourteen “Portrait Suites” exude understated elegance, but the best part of this hotel isn’t even the superb design-driven rooms. The view from the hotel’s rooftop lounge, exclusive to its discerning guests, is one of Rome’s most inspiring nooks. Absorbing the timeless rapture of Rome’s rooftops and the zenith of the Spanish Steps at sunrise, sunset, and every hour in between, while indulging in Portrait Suite’s fabulous full-scale rooftop honor bar, could easily go down in your personal history as your greatest moments in Rome! I did all the obligatory Rome sight seeing, including the gorgeous Trevi Fountain, camera in hand, snapping away at the hot security guards in action. I wandered for hours on what I like to call a “Piazza crawl” – losing and finding myself in and around Rome’s greatest piazzas (e.g. Navona, Venezia, and Minerva). I eventually ended up in Vatican City at St. Peter’s Basilica, splendidly quiet on a Sunday in August, giving me that much more time for sinful thoughts over the Vatican guards.

Come nightfall, I was practically lip locked with the Coliseum and loving every second of it. How? It’s called AROMA (palazzomanfredi.com) – the rooftop restaurant of the Palazzo Manfredi hotel, situated across from the Coliseum. Flush with the top arches of the historic relic, situated at just the right distance from this postcard-perfect panorama rapture, AROMA delivers a mouth watering multi-course tour de force while you gawk at the Coliseum’s authority and fantasy about its history. This intimate experience with global grandeur never grows old! What’s more? AROMA is adjacent to one of Rome’s most popular gay bars, which fills the streets on weekends and Sunday evenings.

Santorini

Unlike neighboring Mykonos, Santorini is more about immersion in the foremost examples of traditional Greek architecture and culture rather than long days on the gay beach and late night parties with European couples looking for hot threesomes.

Santorini is undeniably sleepy compared to Mykonos, but it’s as impressive in person as it is in postcards. When I arrived in Santorini, I took the first tender off the ship to get a head start up to the cliff tops of Fara, the island’s capital city. I wanted to climb the massive zig-zagged staircase; but after a few dozen donkeys nearly decapitated me and I slipped on an unavoidable mound of donkey doo, I opted for the easier cable car option (an animal rights advocate, I didn’t have the heart to ride a donkey in 100 degree heat). Once on the touristy hilltop, I rented a car at Hertz for 65 euros, grabbed a map, and Santorini was my oyster. I traversed most the island in a single day, spending the majority of time in the north, at Oia, the picture-perfect town you see in every ad for Greece tourism. Blue capped, white-washed buildings stacked along the mountainside, peering over vibrant aquamarine waters, flanked by bustling tavernas and colorful small fishing boats. This is the Greece of timeless romance and unwavering culture – somehow frozen in time despite the pressures of globalization. I gorged on my best meal of 2011 at Taverna Kristina – a small restaurant on the waterfront, serving the classics better than ever– tzaziki, grilled calamari, eggplant salad, Greek salad – the works! I asked the jolly and stocky owner if she had a website to share for this travel article, but it was soon clear that nobody on this old school pier had probably ever used the internet!

St. Peter’s Basilica

By PAUL RUBIO

Last month I ventured to the Holy Land on the sophomore voyage of the new Celebrity Silhouette (celebritycruises.com) cruise ship. Over 3000 party-hungry men (and 17 brave women) had christened the ship two weeks prior on its maiden voyage from Italy to Israel and back, in association with Atlantis events. Though I chose to set sail on one of the regularly scheduled itineraries rather than indulging in the Atlantis hype, I found the Celebrity Silhouette exceptionally gay friendly, superbly service-oriented, and sensationally fun.

I’m no stranger to cruising but this was my first Celebrity cruise (I am a Carnival and Princess Cruiselines regular). Immediately, I was blown away by the style and sophistication of the ship. Each of the common rooms impressed me more than the next. The ship has a youthful, whimsical and super stylish feel, with sexy interiors highly reminiscent of my favorite “W” hotels.

The first days of the cruise were spent at sea. “Sea Days” tend to be my favorite days on any cruise, allowing me to relax completely without creating minute- to-minute itineraries for thoroughly exploring a new city or island in just a few hours. Sea days were a time to get to know the ship inside and out. My balcony stateroom was spacious and modern, including an extra large bathroom and a priceless view, as we sailed past Sicily and the Greek Islands. A lover of cocktails, I found the Martini Bar and Crush my favorite space on the ship (and the Raspberry Lemonade Martini arguably my favorite drink in the world!). Feeding off a 28-degree concept of deep glacial whites and blues with its Philippe Stark-style mega chairs and sleek chaise lounges, the oval-shaped bar comfortably seats a few dozen, sporting a counter made of solid ice. The Hideaway, two floors above, functions as an eclectic coffee and chill-out lounge area, where both relaxation and good conversation unfold over avante-garde seating areas resembling bird cages and nests.

The world-class Aqua spa is flanked by the most expansive, state-of-the art full-scale gymnasium I have ever seen on the high seas! Quasar, the ship’s main nightclub across from the shopping arcade (which includes Michael Kors and other retail shops) is a pimped out palladium that puts South Beach’s most popular trendsetters to shame!

Besides the constant eating orgies in the regular dining rooms and all-you-can eat buffets, the ship boasts ten – yes ten – specialty-dining restaurants on board, including the interactive Lawn Club Grill (think: upscale BBQ on the top deck where a Celebrity Chef helps grill your selections and you make your own flatbreads) and traditional fine dining at Celebrity’s most renowned restaurant, Murano.

Indeed, my sea days on the Celebrity Silhouette were long and lazy. I’d sleep in, order breakfast on my balcony and then head to the quiet Solstice deck on level 15 for some intense summer sunbathing. I caught up on my favorite  magazines in the Library lounge and participated in a workshop or two that peaked my interest – like the Riedel Wine Workshop, which demonstrates how the shape and quality of a wine glass affects taste and smell of various wines and the iMovie workshop, so I could finally learn to use this useful application on my Mac!

Lots of eye candy at the gym meant long hours of cardio and pumping iron to work off the colossal portions I had been consuming. I met some great people – both gay and straight – my first nights at the casino and at the “Friends of Dorothy” meeting, a group that proved to be tons of fun throughout the sailing. Throw some casino time in, lots of drinking, even more eating, late night dancing and some special events with the Captain – I probably would have been more than content with 12 “sea days!” But alas, Greece, Italy and Israel were calling; and our ports of call (including Rome, Santorini, and Haifa), were not to be missed.

To be continued next week with, Celebrity Silhouette Sets Sail, Part II: Ports of Call.

By Paul Rubio

Bordered by two of the world’s most popular GLBT cities, Hollywood, Florida, is often tossed aside as a sleepy side city, far removed from the queer Miami-Fort Lauderdale limelight. However, a burgeoning arts scene, an extreme beach overhaul, downtown gentrification and a booming restaurant scene has finally ushered in some much-deserved TLC for this underdog city. Those tired of Miami and Fort Lauderdale’s more predictable scenes will find Hollywood a breath of fresh air – a city more about tradition, community and enrichment than cheap booze or standing and posing.

Hollywood’s redux has unfolded on two main fronts – the beach and downtown. Hollywood beach continues to evolve as a more upscale destination with new construction set to unveil several trendsetting hotels in the coming years. These new hotels will delicately balance the traditional, old school throw back feel of the Broadwalk, where mom and pop ice cream shops and outdoor ethnic eateries reign supreme to commercial chains. Don’t expect Hollywood’s overly tanned old-timers to retire their 1940s clunky bicycles anytime soon. Embracing the full gamut of generations is one of Hollywood’s most charming factors. It’s the beach’s no-frills fun and frivolity that unites people of all ages, races, shapes, genders and sizes. So, it should come as no surprise that gays here do not need to confine themselves to a separate “gay” beach; singles, couples and alternative families can readily enjoy the beach’s downy sands in harmony with the French Canadian tourists, sun starved vacationers and eclectic locals.

To both the north and west of Hollywood beach, Florida’s environmental heritage has been sensationally preserved within the mangroves and virgin habitats surrounding Anne Kolb Nature Center and John U. Lloyd Beach State Park. A hop, skip and a jump from the city’s oceanfront action, old Florida awaits with endless opportunity for canoeing, kayaking, boating, picnicking and wildlife viewing. If you’re lucky, you may even spot manatees while kayaking through this pristine area. And, at John Lloyd State Park, there’s ample space for picnics, grilling or just chilling along the sugarloaf sand banks.

Heading west on Hollywood Boulevard, the circular Young Arts Park segues from beachfront bliss to downtown delights. With a sprawling mega playground, a state of the art amphitheatre hosting fabulous concerts, educational workshop spaces and lots of green space for quintessential outdoor fun, this urban park has become wildly popular with families from all parts of South Florida.

The park hosts fabulous events on a regular basis – like Food Truck Monday evenings, Friday glassblowing workshops for adults and kids alike, scheduled jewelry making classes, as well as a regular concert series which recently included gay favorites En Vogue and Expose in a free concert sponsored by the City of Hollywood.

At the western edge of Young Arts Park, Downtown Hollywood’s blossoming bar and restaurant scene commences along both Hollywood Boulevard and Harrison Street, leading to insider favorites like Mickey Byrne’s Irish Pub & Restaurant, upscale modern French dinging at Sage Café & Oyster Bar, sensational Merlots at Harrisons Wine Bar and decadent desserts at Sweetz Chocolate & Treats Café. Those looking for exceptional originality should definitely begin their citywide gastronomy tour with the restaurant leading the city’s foodie revolution – Lola’s on Harrison. Lola’s menu teems with innovative mouth-watering dishes like short ribs (or Portobello mushroom steaks for vegetarians like me) smothered in homemade Coca Cola BBQ sauce, topped by a tower of buttermilk onion rings alongside a helping of creamed corn; fresh ricotta gnocchi in a hearty wild mushroom cream sauce that melts in your mouth as you eat it; and the best crab cakes you’ll have outside of Baltimore! Three separate drink menus complement the food experience – an awesome and enormous beer menu with several dozen American and Imported Hand Crafted Beers, an extensive affordable wine list and a book of artisanal cocktails full of muddled, fruity goodness!

Beyond a day or evening trip to dabble in Hollywood’s beach and downtown offerings, the spectacular Hollywood Westin Diplomat is idyllic for a Hollywood vacation or staycation. With everything and anything you’d want from a grand hotel, combined with jaw-dropping views, quick beach access, plenty of swimming pools, excellent restaurants and bars (including one of my South Florida favorites – the Asian-inspired Azia), stellar service, a social vibe and a central location for enjoying Hollywood, Miami, and Fort Lauderdale – the Hollywood Westin Diplomat is one of South Florida’s best and most affordable hotel options.