Florida Agenda

By ROBERT ELIAS DEATON

Mention the word “cruise,” and we all know where your mind goes. Lingering stares across a room, a hint of a smile upon your lips. There is, of course, another kind of cruising that’s a little more expensive (or on second thought, maybe not). It’s the type of cruising where you pack your bags, get on a ship, and eat and play to your heart’s content while you move magically from port to port without mussing your hair (well, again, on second thought, a little muss can be fun).

To help you plan your next cruise, or perhaps your first, GUY MAGAZINE serves up the best in cruising for Summer and Fall, 2012.

ITALY, GREEK ISLANDS & ISTANBUL

Sail aboard the Celebrity Equinox with 2,700 gay men and lesbian women departing from Civitavecchia, the port just west of Rome, Italy, in this cruise organized by Atlantis Events, the grand poo-pah of gay and lesbian travel. Leaving August 24 and returning September 3, this 11-day vacation is nothing short of an once-in-a-lifetime event with pit stops in Mykonos and Santorini, Greece; Kusadasi, and Istanbul, Turkey; the island of Malta; plus the Sicilian capital of Palermo. With lots of flesh and hard bodies, Atlantis cruises are quickly sold out. There are, however, often last minute cancellations as well. (www.atlantisevents.com)

HAWAII

This 15-day cruise is organized by one of our favorite gay travel agencies, Manhattan’s Pied Piper Travel, aboard the luxurious Celebrity Century. Although totally refurbished in 2006, this 1,808-passenger ship has an old-world charm. Expect more baby-boomers on this cruise line, where elegance and refinement dictate dress code and behavior. Sugar Daddy alert! There is no denying the sundrenched lure of Maui, the Big Island and Oahu, however, so grab your number 50 lotion for this cruise that departs on April 5 from San Diego, returning April 20. (www.piedpipertravel.com)

BAHAMAS

While the Bahamas are our closest island cruise destination, when left in the hands of Source Events, the place becomes a totally different experience altogether. Source is the official producer of the Miami Beach Pride Cruise, departing on April 16 for fourdays aboard the Norwegian Sky. The ship has a capacity of 2,000 with Source Events promising a Tropical Fantasy Costume Party, a trio of tea dances, an exclusive gay movie screening, and assorted treats (or was that “tricks”—we’ll check and get back to you). Pride or not, this is a mixed cruise, so no nude sunbathing by the pool. (www.sourceevents.com)

PRAGUE AND THE DANUBE RIVER

While it may seem strange to start a cruise of the Danube in the Czech Republic’s capital Prague, through which the Danube does not flow, it was a natural choice for Brand G Vacations, who put this package together. Ever since porn director William Higgins left Hollywood and made Prague his homebase, the place has become a very gay-friendly destination. You’ll definitely want to check out these cobbled streets and back-rooms before hopping on a bus and making a mad dash over to Nuremberg, Germany (with a pee break in Carlsbad). Once there, you’ll board the Amadeus Waterways’ MS AmaCerto. No, you’re not on the Danube yet, but rather on the Main- Danube Canal which eventually runs into the River. Once you eventually hit the Big D (which by the way is no longer Blue as Strauss once claimed), get set for a leisurely float down the river to Vienna, where you’ll spend two days riding bikes and waltzing, if that’s your thing. It all begins on August 21 for 10 days, with the boat dropping you eventually in Budapest, Hungary. (www. brandgvacations.com)

Ahoy.

Continuing with last week’s castle theme, we’ll examine the jewel of coastal Scotland, Glenapp Castle, and the magic city that lies between all of these storybook fortresses – Edinburgh.

Read Here: CASTLES IN THE CLOUDS PART I: Ashford and Inverlochy

Glenapp Castle

High on the lush hilltops of Ballantrae, Ayrshire, gazing over Scotland’s pristine southwestern shores, Glenapp Castle (glenappcastle.com, +44-1465-831-212) embodies the mystique and the magic of the illustrious British castle experience. Glenapp’s 36-acre estate is a multihued wonderland of lavish walled and tiered gardens, reflection ponds, extensive moss-clad forest trails, and breathtaking panoramas of the Irish Sea. Arriving at Glenapp’s girthy wooden double doors, a set of Clue-type personalities (e.g. Colonel Mustard and Mrs. White) stand eager to greet. An uncontrollable sense of “Holy Cow! I’m staying in a real castle” excitement immediately ensues, a feeling that never quite ends as you live out the days of your fairytale fantasy. Enveloped by windows, natural light illuminates the imperial living room, adorned with plush maroon and cream furnishings accented by light gold trim. Similar to the stately dining room and the majority of the castle’s 17 rooms and suites, the living room delivers tremendous panoramic views of the manicured gardens, native foliage, crashing waves, and nearby islands – a sensational juxtaposition of jade forests and sapphire seas. The cuisine here completely defies the bland British food stereotype, (thank G-d) highlighted by a nightly five-course gastronomic extravaganza. With a more casual and approachable vibe than other Scottish castles, Glenapp achieves an exceptional equilibrium of formality and informality. You’ll feel right at home posing for your Facebook castle album in casual threads, using the 19th century quixotic decadence and decorum as your muse. You can sip lots of whiskey and then get lost on the numerous walking trails, which lead through the verdant surroundings to the Irish Sea. There’s no pressure here – just plenty of vacation-style unadulterated rest and relaxation.

Edinburgh Stopover

While most of Scotland and Ireland’s castles feel like they exist in lands far, far, and away, modernization and globalization remain within driving distance. You’ll need to travel to Shannon in Ireland or Glasgow or Edinburgh in Scotland to pick up your horse and carriage, I mean rental car, to head to greener pastures. Edinburgh, in particular, piques the interest of the GLBT traveler, with a wide range of gay-friendly accommodations, bars, nightclubs, and an intoxicating all-welcoming vibe that makes it one of the globe’s coolest cities. Though it sometimes tags on an extra hour drive to the scenic drives to and from castles (compared to nearby Glasgow), it’s well worth the stopover to this charming, medieval city. At the east end of Princes Street, near the heart of the GLBT action, and walking distance to Edinburgh’s renowned Royal Mile and Edinburgh Castle, the Apex Waterloo Place Hotel (apexhotels.co.uk) is the ideal starting or end point to any Scotland sojourn. An urban chic boutique hotel, the Apex Waterloo Place Hotel offers everything the young and sophisticated GLBT traveler could want housed in a historic architectural gem. The hotel is sophisticated but unpretentious and begins at an exceptionally awesome price point – 90GBP. Take it from someone who lived in the UK for years, a UK bargain is almost an oxymoron but this one is for real! It’s easy to navigate the entire city by foot from the hotel. Any “top” sight you’ve heard or read about is a short walk away. Come nightfall, Greenside Place comes to life with its collection of gay bars, including C.C. Bloom’s and Café Habana. Who knows? You might even meet your Prince Charming, go back to his castle, and write your own gay fairytale!

Paul Rubio is a Miami-based travel editor who has visited over 82 countries in his quest to showcase the world. A graduate of Harvard University, Paul is the author of “Out Traveler: South Florida” and caters to both avid voyagers and armchair travelers.

By PAUL RUB

Sprinkled along the Gaelic-rich countryside, historic relics and towering castles from the Middle Ages to the 19th century create fairy tale settings for reliving the histories of Scotland and Ireland. A number of these castles have been reinvented as hotels, doling out the Full Monty “Once Upon a Time” experience, combining “Harry Potter” scenery with moat-and-guard castle greatness, and some Clue and Scooby Doo-style mystery thrown into the mix (think: secret doors and passageways that lead to an entire underworld, face paintings with tracking eyes, and staff personalities that have you thinking, “it was Mrs. Peacock in the study with the candlestick”). From Inverlochy Castle, ambassador to the Scottish Highlands, to my personal favorite, Ireland’s 13th century Ashford Castle, venturing off Europe’s beaten path and heading to these remote pockets of living history brings a personal storybook to life.

Ashford Castle

Once upon a time, in a reality of fairy tales and fantasia, medieval nobility and majesty prevailed throughout the emerald green island today known as Ireland. During the High Middle Ages, the Norman invasions gave way to settlements such as Ashford on the island’s far west, peppering the landscape with towering castles that epitomized power and period-appropriate ostentation. Nearly eight centuries after its naissance in 1228, Ashford Castle (ashford.ie, 1-800- 346-7007) triumphs as a functioning hotel and historical link to Ireland’s tumultuous past, a splendid adaptive reuse of the fortified residence built by the Anglo- Norman de Burgo family following their defeat of the native O’Connors Connaught. (History lesson now over. Whew!) A top-notch hotel in every facet of design and service, Ashford Castle keeps history in style deep in the remote stretches of western Ireland, about a two-hour drive from the nearest major airport, Shannon. The superbly manicured sprawling grounds, regal interiors, and touches of modern luxury bow down only to the original dramatic exterior, a perfectly preserved architectural and cultural treasure. Ashford Castle embodies the medieval mystery and magnificence that has inspired literary and philosophical greats, recalling an exalted yet eerie age of societal evolution. A protective moat, sharp spires, raised watchtowers, creaky stairways, and secret passageways are just the beginning (Zoinks!). Dimly lit libraries, quiet drawing rooms, draped canopy beds and plush Victorian interiors exude traditional luxury while extensive, labyrinth pathways cut through dozens of verdant acres, leading to on-site centers for falconry, archery, fishing, spa relaxation, golf, and equestrian endeavors. The seasoned and eccentric staff take tremendous pride in facilitating an allencompassing sojourn far back in time while dutifully attentive to the whims and wants of today’s discerning and pampered traveler.

Inverlochy Castle

Inverlochy Castle

One of Scotland’s most exalted hotels, Inverlochy Castle (inverlochycastlehotel. com, 1-888-424-0106), lies in the foothills of Britain’s tallest mountain, Ben Nevis, amidst the inspirational, striking scenery easily recognized by avid “Harry Potter” movie fans. Minutes away from the ruins of the original 13th-century Inverlochy castle, the hotel dates back to mid-19th century, its former life as the private home of Lord Abinger and a resting spot for Queen Victoria on her travels to the Scottish highlands circa 1873. (Insert condescending accent here). Nowadays, this country castle home welcomes globetrotters from around the world and hopeless romantics to receive their own royal treatment. The castle’s formal common areas and seventeen rooms and suites honor the décor and opulence of the late 19th century, none more so than the exquisite dining room, where Chef Philip Carnegie doles out decadent Michelin-starred cuisine. Be prepared to dress to the nines for dinner, gorge over six courses, and whisper the entire time in a dining room where you can hear a pin drop! Lush landscaping and lichen-rich trees envelop the property, flanked by two small lochs and surrounding walking trails ideal for short afternoon ambles. While most high-end Irish and Scottish castles function as stand-alone experiences in remote swaths of Gaelic country, Inverlochy is conveniently located within proximity of Fort William, gateway to the Scottish highlands, and within an hour of the Inner Hebrides and Loch Ness. It’s a fantastic home base or gateway for exploring greater Scotland and is located a two-hour drive from Glasgow or a three hour drive from Edinburgh.

Read Here: CASTLES IN THE CLOUDS PART II: GLENAPP AND EDINBURGH

Paul Rubio

Paul Rubio is a Miami-based travel editor who has visited over 82
countries in his quest to showcase the world. A graduate of Harvard
University, Paul is the author of “Out Traveler: South Florida” and
caters to both avid voyagers and armchair travelers.

By PAUL RUBIO

Anchored by protected lands that are teeming with extraordinary natural arches and seemingly-otherworldly dimensions of tiered red rock landscapes, Moab (discovermoab.com) has evolved as the gateway to one of Utah’s most impressive and popular parks, the 73,000-acre Arches National Park (nps.gov/arch). Unlike Capitol Reef and Monument Valley, Arches’ accessibility from Salt Lake City and its thriving airport means unleashing your Utah with a helluva lot of other visitors and tourists, who have also traveled from far and wide to witness the 2,000-plus natural sandstone arches, particularly the world-famous Delicate Arch.

From the Visitor’s Center, the heavily trafficked road climbs at a steep grade to the park entrance, ascending through twists and turns to various sightseeing points and hiking trails. These stops are wonderfully mapped out on the National Park’s pamphlet, but those who were savvy as kids in defining cloud shapes will quickly recognize points like “Park Avenue,” a large rock formation that resembles a long block of city skyscrapers. With such an abundance of arches and sights, you have to pick and choose which you’d like to see. What’s not to miss? First, the Devils Garden Trailhead to Landscape Arch is a three-for-one, also passing through Pine Tree Arch and Tunnel Arch. Fiery Furnace provides a terrific view of jagged and rough rock that resembles volcanic lava. And of course the three-mile trail to Delicate Arch is easily the highlight of any trip to Utah.

Strutting its beauty over a steep precipice, framing the best of Utah’s landscapes within its perimeter, Delicate Arch has rightfully become the icon of Utah, and a beacon for travel to this scintillating red rock country.

Moab
In close proximity to Arches National Park, Moab is Utah’s equivalent to Jackson Hole, Wyoming – an upscale but homey town with plenty of places to stay, from the high-end to the mediocre, a variety of choices of food establishments, and booking facilities for all outdoor activities whether in summer or winter. One of the superlative lodge experiences is to be found at Sorrel River Ranch (sorrelriver.com), north and east of Moab along Highway 128, running contiguously to the Colorado River. Sorrel is a top-notch luxury resort that provides the full throttle “glamping” experience, with swimming pools, rustic-meets-modern-luxe cabins, and haute amenities, nestled among picturesque canyon walls along the path of the Colorado River. The Sorrel River Ranch offers horseback riding from its own stables in addition to providing bookings for river rafting, Hummer drive/rides, ATV rental, fishing, hiking, and other outdoor activities.

Salt Lake City
No matter what the middle chapters of your “Choose Your Own Adventure/ Utah” look like, your story will nearly always begin and end in the state’s capital, Salt Lake City.

Fear not, SLC is not nearly as scary in person as it seems on TV. In fact, the city surprises with its pockets of big-city sophistication, including the Sugar House gayborhood, with lots of fab real estate, a 24-hour fitness center that comes equipped with plenty of eye candy, and LGBT-friendly restaurants and shops like Diva’s Cupcakes & Coffee, and the 50-year old Finn’s Café.
While residential Sugar House merits a visit for getting your food and drink on, the city’s best accommodations are to be found downtown. Kimpton’s Hotel Monaco Salt Lake City (monaco-saltlakecity.com) is hands-down the best place to start and end your Utah sojourn. Ironically located just blocks away from Temple Square and the spires of the LDS Temple and Mormon Tabernacle (the home of its world-renown Choir), the Hotel Monaco SLC embraces the LGBT community with open arms: It hosts the annual LGBT “Red Party” fundraiser, a benefit for the Utah AIDS Foundation (utahaids.org), which turns into the dance party of the year on the Thursday before World AIDS Day. In summer, the Monaco also hosts the annual “Pink Party” to kick off Salt Lake City’s gay pride, which rounded up 35,000 supporters in 2011. And in any season, the hotel celebrates eccentricity and individuality through its gregarious staff and patrons, whimsical and funky guest rooms, and its see-and-be-seen restaurant, Bambara. An über-cool adaptive reuse of the former First Continental Bank, the Hotel Monaco SLC has retained some of the bank’s original elements including the vault, and the circa-early 20th century gold elevators, while completely re-inventing the interiors. In keeping with the freebie heavy traditions of the Kimpton brand, complimentary WiFi, coffee, and nightly wine hours are an added bonus. Almost every restaurant and coffee house near the hotel distributes Q Salt Lake, the city’s gay rag. If you want to know what’s up in SLC before heading west, check out their website qsaltlake.com. Most gay nightlife options like Jam, Pure, and Metro will require a 10-15 minute taxi, but it’s well worth it.

Finally, in the spirit of open-mindedness and learning about other cultures, take the time to stroll down a few blocks from the hotel to visit Temple Square, the headquarters of the LDS (Mormon) Church. Here, you’ll be approached by young women on mission, eager to show you around the square and tell you about life in the church and the doctrine of continuing revelation. You’ll be staring at larger-than-life photos of the church’s current president, Thomas S. Monson, whom they consider to be a modern-day “prophet, seer, and revelator,” as you listen to “recordings” of Jesus Christ. Honestly, it’s fascinating. They might even try to convert you, as they did me. When the girls asked me to join the LDS church, I told them, “Sorry girls, I can’t join. I am gay.” To this they replied: “That’s ok. We can get you help. And it’s okay to be gay. You just can’t practice it.” Luckily for me, I’ve had plenty of practice, much of it in Utah, unleashed.

To learn more about southern Utah, Monument Valley and Utah in general, visit utahscanyoncountry.com,
navajonationparks.org, and utah.travel

Utah Unleashed Part I: Capitol Reef & Torrey

Utah Unleashed Part II: Monument Valley and the Byways Beyond

By Paul Rubio

Near the Utah-Arizona state border, Monument Valley (navajonationparks.org) has long served as Hollywood’s quintessential Western back lot, beginning with John Ford’s Stagecoach in 1939 and continuing to more modern blockbuster films such as Mission Impossible II and Back to the Future III. This vast expanse of unique sandstone formations and historic home to the Navajo Indian Nation rises dramatically from the ground, far and away from any major town or airport in a place void of most links to modernity. Connecting this time warp to a lucrative tourist industry, the Gouldings Lodge (gouldings.com) offers dining, overnight accommodations, day tours and activities

to dutifully experience Monument Valley.

Goulding’s safari-style tour trucks navigate the bumpy, roller coaster trails through the Valley with the help of an experienced Navajo driver and guide. The open-aired truck makes stops at superlative locations to photograph the most famous rock formations like the Three Sisters, the Eye of the Sun, Submarine Rock, and the Mittens. Inside the Valley, descendants of domestic sheep and horses from the conquistadors’ days roam freely. Those hoping to explore the valley on their own should think twice. Most rental vehicles struggle to handle the terrain, and the majority of the Valley is restricted to use by official tour and park vehicles. Through Gouldings, it’s possible to arrange Monument Valley activities in advance, like the tour described above, horseback group rides, and also ATV or hiking excursions to other near sites outside of the Monument Valley Preserve.

While Monument Valley consummates a childhood fantasy of playing “Cowboys and Indians,” getting to this clandestine destination is half the adventure. When planning a Utah tour de force, the most logical and spectacular way to reach here is via Bicentennial Scenic Byway 95, coming from Hanksville, 45 minutes east of Capitol Reef National Park. Pictures, pit stops, deep thoughts and all, this drive could easily take all day. Indeed, it’s likely that you will hope this road trip will never end.

Carved through the pinnacle of southeastern Utah’s Canyon country, the Bicentennial Scenic Byway showcases the diversity of the state’s landscapes. The byway passes through Bridges National Monument, the world’s largest display of natural bridges clocking in at 225 million years old, as well as the aquamarine oasis of Lake Powell. Veering south at Highway 261, the valleys of Southern Utah paint a jaw-dropping panorama as you descend the Moki Dugway, an 11 percent grade, gravel zigzagged road lowering 1000 feet to the valley floor. It is here on Moki Dugway that the greatness of the Monument Valley first comes into view.

But the sights don’t end yet unless your early end game is the town of Bluff at the Desert Rose Inn (desertroseinn.com) for a comfortable respite from the day’s driving and sightseeing. Whether overnighting in Bluff or heading all the way to Gouldings in the same day, take a short detour west before reaching the town of Mexican Hat (appropriately named for the rock formation that forms a figure resembling the profile of a Mexican sombrero on the head of a serape-covered person) and you’ll soon arrive at Goosenecks State Park (utah.com/stateparks). Over 300+ million years old, the San Juan River has carved out a stunning display of a rare labyrinthine geologic formation known as “entrenched meander.” As you exit your vehicle and grow mesmerized by these natural “goose necks,” not having seen more than a dozen vehicles in the entire day, enjoying nothing but the sounds of wind and rock in a land void of radio and cell phone coverage, the epiphany hits. Utah’s sandstone-strewn canyon lands have become the pages of your personal Choose Your Own Adventure Book, each detour or turn another page number, leading you to our bespoke conclusion. The Earth seems limitless and inviting and somehow all yours.

To learn more about travel in Utah visit  www.utah.travel.

Part 1 of this Travel Story is here:  Utah Unleashed Part I: Capitol Reef & Torrey

BY PAUL RUBIO

A ruddy, rugged land imaginatively painted by the geological time clock, Utah boasts some of the world’s most unsurpassed natural beauty.

Though the homophobic rhetoric of the LDS church and HBO’s Big Love have made Utah a household name for the GLBT community, there’s far more to the Mormon-centric state than meets the cautious queer eye. The all-welcoming, towering collections of weather-torn sandstone that have formed nature’s Wild West playground of canyons, arches, and promontories are indeed some of Earth’s most breathtaking landscapes. A land of “cowboys and Indians” comes to life traversing the great distances between hamlets dotting the sparsely populated state, with historic trading posts and random watering holes revealing glimpses of a time bygone. Rustic lodges dole out world-class luxury amidst the craggy, mountainous terrain. And trepidation of Salt Lake City fades after experiencing the silent GLBT revolution of the state capital, where a blossoming gay population is successfully making its way with a mini-gayborhood, awesome gay bars, trendy hotels, and plenty of fair-skinned hotties eager to unbutton their “magic underwear” (Google for added explanation).

Over the next few issues, we’ll be looking at some of Utah’s greatest natural wonders and points of interest for the intrepid GLBT traveler, from the stunning rock formations of Capitol Reef National Park to the Wild West’s Monument Valley to the impressive arches near Moab to pockets of big city sophistication in Salt Lake City! Get ready for Utah unleashed!

Capitol Reef National Park
In the heart of southern Utah’s canyon lands, Capitol Reef National Park (nps.gov/care) comprises 378 square miles of multihued canyons, ridges, buttes (pun intended), and monoliths, doling out spectrums of reds and oranges in coral-reef like formations you never dreamed possible.  These jagged edges of glowing sandstone, defined by a 100-mile long warp in the Earth’s crust known as Waterpocket Fold, begin to take center stage heading towards the town of Torrey, reaching scenic Highway 24 roughly 3.5 hours south of Salt Lake City.

One of Utah’s lesser-known national parks, Capitol Reef is a prime opportunity for personal bonding with Mother Nature. In what feels like your own private land of canyons, ridges, and domes, Earth’s essence proves boundless – whether hiking the steep 3.5 mile trail to Chimney Rock, a weathered layered sandstone obelisk, capturing the sun’s late PM radiance at Sunset Point or traipsing through the beginner’s 1 mile path to Hickman Bridge, an impressive natural arch in a scenic side canyon far above the Fremont River. Blink quickly and you might miss the chipmunks, squirrels, birds, hawks, eagles, and lizards, eager to greet you or soaring above you. Or you might overlook the stunning petro glyphs, linking the park to its rich Native-American history.

More experienced hikers will be handsomely rewarded with Capitol Reef’s near-dozen moderate and strenuous hiking trails.  But even keeping to the Capitol Reef basics–the winding roads, hairpin turns and short trails of the park’s ten-mile paved “scenic drive”–you’ll experience exquisite rock formations producing an array of vibrant and contrasting earthly colors. Some of these rock formations have been weathered to resemble their given names of “The Castle” and “The Egyptian Temple.” These natural formations play out like works of natural art, easily venerated for hours and photographed ad nauseam.

Torrey
Post mind-boggling days exploring Capitol Reef, the superlative way to relax in comfort and share your Utah experience with other fellow travelers is an overnight stay or two at the nearby Lodge at Red River Ranch (redriverranch.com) ($150-$245 per night) along Highway 24’s Pony Express Route. Here, an old farmhouse has been transformed into a bed and breakfast with an irresistible “how the West was won” ambience and the full gamut of ultra cozy, period furniture circa late 19th century. Come evening, the foyer and living room come alive with guests returning from the day’s outing, eager to indulge others in their stories. The Lodge at Red River Ranch offers breakfast, lunch and dinner for their guests at the dining room, the breakfasts particularly satisfying before hiking the beautiful trails of Capitol Reef or a day of ATV off-roading.

Hands down the best place to spend your evening in Torrey is at Café Diablo (cafediablo.net), with its fanfare of eclectic southwestern appetizers and dishes. Not sure how this innovative farm to table restaurant has fallen off the Anthony Bourdain radar, but the Rattlesnake Cakes ($9), the Coconut Calamari & Marmalade Salad ($10), and the Marinated Loin of Utah Lamb ($28) are the stuff of Travel Channel-meets-Food Network dreams. Meals are capped with homemade ice creams and gastronomic ingenuity from the in-house pastry team. Of note, Diablo remains open only during peak season from mid-April to late October, so plan accordingly.

To learn more about Capitol Reef and travel in Utah visit www.CapitolReef.travel and www.utah.travel.

Click for  Part II Here: Utah Unleashed Part II: Monument Valley and the Byways Beyond

Timeless elegance and irresistible opulence fuel this epic train journey through the Scottish highlands

By Paul Rubio

Reinstituting the glory and grandeur of train travel circa early-to-mid-20th century, the Royal Scotsman pays homage to a bygone era of luxurious peregrinations through Europe’s most romantic landscapes. A series of delicately restored vintage Pullman cars, the Royal Scotsman journeys along the tracks less traveled of Scotland’s remote countryside, passing through sleepy fishing villages, pastoral backdrops of sorrowful beauty, and palatial estates frequented by Her Majesty, Queen Elizabeth II.

Every April, the Royal Scotsman begins its annual 6-month pilgrimage along, between, by and within Scotland’s stunning east and rugged west with a full gamut of two to seven day journeys available to thoroughly experience the best of stately Scotland. The popular four-night “Classic Journey,” for example, begins and ends in Edinburgh, venturing north towards Keith, then west towards Inverness and Kyle of Locash, returning by way of boat to Garten and Pitlochry.

Onboard, the Royal Scotsman delivers the intrigue and excellence that matches a period when train travel was indeed epic. The varnished wood interiors complement the kaleidoscope of Scottish plaid flooring and regal accessories, a fitting backdrop for formal dining among the who’s who of the train’s 36 guests.

Channeling the age of vintage glamour, come nightfall guests peruse the train in haute couture and dazzling diamonds, fostering a James Bond-esque scene of elegance and mystery (but without the imminent danger). The train’s “Observatory Lounge” surfaces as a point of congregation for aperitifs, after dinner drinks and entertainment, and hours of sheer day dreaming, mesmerized by the contrasts of dull, olive and bright greens through the Scottish highlands.

Traversing this sparsely populated, mysterious land of glens, lochs, and picturesque mountain ranges, the train stops frequently – often twice per day – allowing guests to get up close and personal with the robust personalities, cultural heritage, and fascinating living history of Scotland’s lesser-known regions. Distillery tours, wildlife cruises, bespoke estate tours, castle hopping, clay pigeon shooting, fly fishing, and visiting farms with “highland coo” are part of the greater Royal Scotsman experience. The daily activities are idyllic for working off the day’s three decadent farm-to-table meals, which showcase the best of Scottish gastronomy from local Haggis (or the revolutionary vegetarian Haggis) to globally renowned smoked salmon to sweet seafood from the Herbrides.

For the train journey of a lifetime, visit: www.royalscotsman.com or call 1.800.524.2420.

By PAUL RUBIO

According to the American Consumer Credit Council, the average American spends $935 on Christmas gifts, but we all know people who fork out thousands for the holidays. This year, think twice about wasting money on the latest consumer fads or even cut a few peeps from the gift-giving list.

Be selfish and use some of that Xmas kitty to start the year in style. Or go totally altruistic and surprise someone special in your life with a grand vacation or a mini staycation.

All I Want for Xmas is… A Private Island

A one-stop shop for serenity, beauty, gastronomy, spirituality, relaxation, and devotion, Parrot Cay in the Turks and Caicos champions the distinctive inspirations of “Eat,” “Pray,” and “Love” within a single private island. The island’s barefoot luxury is seductive and irresistible, best appreciated on aimless ambles to clandestine coves and uninhabited sandbars or cocktail in hand lounging poolside. The food at Parrot Cay is so blow-your-mind delicious that each meal is nothing short of experiential. parrotcay.como.bz

All I Want for Xmas is…  An Overwater Bungalow

Hands down the two ultimate destinations for the overwater bungalow experience are the Maldives and French Polynesia. If you can’t fork out the cash for the 1K/night often commanded by hotels in Bora Bora and the Maldives, try the Hilton Moorea Spa and Lagoon. The overwater huts here perch over the world’s most crystalline waters; and they happen to be more affordable than similar product on other islands around the world. Request suites numbered between 71-75, 82-87 or 105-109 and prepare to indulge in the some of the world’s most  breath taking scenery. www.hilton.com/FrenchPolynesia

All I Want for Xmas is…  A Winter City Experience

Whether visiting for the first or the fourteenth time, Boston imbues visitors and residents alike with a patriotic spirit and a sense of American enchantment. In America’s great city of “firsts,” the Lenox Hotel is revered as one of the country’s first luxury hotels. The Lenox boasts the only in-room wood burning fireplaces in Boston, and the hotel’s authentic British pub, Solas, was shipped over from Liverpool.  It’s all within short walking distance to GLBT institutions like Club Café and the gay-friendly South End. lenoxhotel.com

All I Want for Xmas is…  A Taste of Old Florida

Florida’s Southern Belle, the Ritz-Carlton, Amelia Island, is a classic, oceanfront resort in an untouched part of Old Florida, in close proximity of pristine state parks like Fort Clinch, Big Talbot Island, and Little Talbot Island. Charming amenities such as the ubiquitous Adirondack chairs facing the wide swaths of ocean, and the cozy, fireplace-lit seaside common room make this resort idyllic in both summer and winter. The resort recently unveiled its new $18 million dollar spa, with a revamped menu that includes novel additions like “Heaven in a Hammock.” ritzcarlton.com/AmeliaIsland

All I Want for Xmas is…  Sundrenched Relaxation

If you don’t feel like standing and posing in a one-piece or two-piece at a crumbling, overpriced Art Deco hotel on South Beach, seek sunny refuge a dozen miles north at Acqualina Resort & Spa. A self-contained world of high-end seaside fun, Acqualina sits on Miami Beach’s finest sands and boasts amenities that outshine almost any South Beach trendsetting hotel. Nightlife options are limited, but the point here is simplyunapologeticrelaxation. acqualinaresort.com

By PAUL RUBIO

There’s a lot of talk about “foodies” these days. This relatively new entry to the urban dictionary has become one
of American society’s most overused words, albeit with good reason. Finally we have a politically correct term that accounts for our unapologetic indulgence in our greatest fat kid fantasies, extra reason to go Paula-Dean-heavy or Mary-Kate-Olsen-light on the butter, and an excuse to take meticulous note of the ingredients and preparation of food (without being classified as clinically food obsessed). It’s no longer shameful to travel distances far and wide with the sole purpose of a personal feeding frenzy; in fact, it’s now trendy and almost mainstream.

That said, in my global travels and 365-days-a-year restaurant lifestyle, I’ve found only a handful of cities anchored by such great eats to warrant a foodie pilgrimage – none more so than the San Diego area. It seems that central and northern California’s farm-to-table revolution has trickled down to the state’s southern reaches, gaining some extra personality, audacity, and robustness on the way. Think: blow-your-mind experiential gastronomy with drink lists to match.

Below are three restaurants that should headline your foodie bucket list and will send you packing your loosest jeans for a west coast eating and drinking orgy.

Flavor
(www.flavordelmar.com, 858-755-3663, Del Mar). Doling out breathtaking views of the SoCal coastline through its panoramic glass windows, this Über-creative restaurant plays up the yin and yang elements of gastronomy, with acclaimed Chef Brian Redzikowski engineering some wildly new taste sensations. The meal begins with house bread and butter accompanied by a quarta of rotating salts (e.g. black garlic, honey jalapeno, sage, and basil). Next up, “raw,” and “warm” starters like the “Tartare of Hawaiian Ahi” with yuzu aioli, black garlic, and chili oil and “braised local baby beets” over a citrus-beet puree, Maytag blue cheese and toasted macadamia nuts. For the main course – divine interventions of “surf,” “turf,” and veg, such as the “local halibut en sous vide” over rock shrimp and “Meyer lemon risotto, pancetta, pea tendril salad, and saffron hollandaise.” Flavor’s idyllic upper story location means a front row ticket for the best sunset in town, and naturally a few sunset libations not to be missed, like “Salt & Pepper,” grey goose, yellow bell pepper, lime, agave, sprinkled salt and pepper garnish and “Tangerine Jalapeno,” tequila, Cointreau, tangerine, lemon, lime, house made jalapeno puree, and a chili-lime salt rim. Bursting with Flavor, this is American’s raging “foodie and cocktail revolution” at its best.

Grant Grill
(www.grantgrill.com, 619-744-2077, Downtown San Diego). Grant Grill proves that you don’t need to be a newbie to be a foodie favorite. For six decades, the renowned restaurant of The US?Grant Hotel has consistently reinvented its menu with each approaching season, letting the creative juices simmer through the season’s top produce and ingredients. The 3, 4, or 5 course monthly tasting menu (with or without wine pairings) offers varying degrees of indulgence, and a divergence from other seasonally returning favorites like the “Dungeness Crab Risotto,” the “Grant Grill Mock Turtle Soup” and the “Frontiere All Natural Buffalo Loin” with Butterball potatoes, Maui onion rings, King trumpet mushrooms, and Marrow gremolata. Despite an evolving menu, the restaurant stays delightfully true to its circa 1951 roots, with the dark and elegant feel of a gentleman’s club that transforms into an old school speakeasy on weekends. It should come as no surprise then that the Grant Grill serves as a drinking institution in San Diego. Manager-Sommelier Jeff Josenhans is regionally famous for his wine and cocktail menu. Josenhans says the trick to a fabulous cocktail is “ingenuity and balance,” followed by a process of “sketching and experimenting.” Josenhans reveals that a major synergy of forces merits the Grill’s house of libations reputation; but house made syrups, reductions, and daring ingredients don’t hurt. This holiday season, Josenhans brings back the “Smashing Pumpkin” from the Grill’s Food Network fame – pumpkin infused rum, all spice liqueur, Ginger liqueur, Meyer lemon, Grand Marnier, and cardamom bitters. Now, I’ll toast to that!

Searsucker
(www.searsucker.com, 619-233-7327, Downtown San Diego). It’s a magical equation of originality plus calories at Searsucker – the colossal, vibrant, and trendy eatery that’s still commanding a hefty wait nearly a year after opening. The menu breaks things down simply into categories of: “bites,” “smalls,” “greens,” “ocean,” “ranch,” “farm,” and “milk + sugar,” further revealing pithy descriptions of the dishes themselves, like “farm bird lollipops + snake oil + blue fondue” and “crab cake ‘carb free.’” Yet these short descriptions are loaded like a one pound baked potato!

The “crab cake ‘carb free’” is indeed rich in protein, but it’s also coated in lemon aioli, tomato jam, and cilantro reduction. It’s more than a nice surprise; it’s heaven
on a plate! Similarly, the “butternut” arrives as rich, squash lasagna; and the “mahi mahi” as a beautiful presentation of fresh fish over a bed of fried onions and chipotle, topped with balsamic reduction and blue cheese. No matter what you order, Searsucker is an all out love affair with food and all things caloric!

By Paul Rubio

Beyond South Bali’s crowded shorelines, life quickly changes heading east.

Frenetic traffic gives way to isolated roads bordered by stacked rice terraces and lush jungle. Scenes of daily village life quickly usurp the fast food and motorcycle calamity. Circumventing the eastern coastline towards the traditional villages of Manggis, Cadidasa, and Tenganan, colossal vines and palm trees vie for space along dramatic cliffsides. Secluded beaches usher in the rising tides from the Straits of Lombok.

Navigating this shoreline feels like a journey back in time. Women stroll along roadsides, balancing buckets of salak (snake fruit) on their heads, and children weave delicate floral arrangements called banten canang as religious offerings for life cycle ceremonies within the village. The colors, the smiles, and the sounds – they’re all so vibrantly expressive. Many of these traditional scenes stem for the Balinese devotion to their own version of Hinduism – Agama Hindu Dharma. This fidelity has resulted in an island of “1000 temples,” none more important than east Bali’s 11th century Mother Temple of Besakih, the inspiration for every temple found in Bali’s countless villages.

Unobtrusively situated in this land of time bygone, east Bali’s most prized resort, the 34-villa Amankila (amanresorts.com) serves as an ambassador and gateway to the island’s coastal stronghold of anthropology and ecology, fostering cross-cultural interactions in near-by villages and facilitating day trips throughout the magnificent countryside. Amankila, or “peaceful hill,” is romanticized utter seclusion at its finest, tranquility in the shadow of the island’s apex, Mount Agung.

The majority of guests at Amankila strive for equilibrium between tropically breezed, unabashed pampering and immersion in Bali’s nature and traditions; and the resort offers the best of both worlds. An early morning sunrise trek to picturesque Gumang Hill or a snorkeling cruise aboard Aman XII is complemented by an afternoon of spa treatments and a beachside private candlelite dinner.

Likewise, a full afternoon of exploring villages, frolicking in renowned water palaces, and bargaining in local markets, often begins with a picnic breakfast on top of the world at either of Amankila’s romantic satellite bales and later ends with a Rijsttafel dinner, a ten course Indonesian dining extravaganza. For those wanting to simply enjoy the understated elegance and outstanding amenities of the resort, opportunities for sheer relaxation are infinite – whether in-suite, beachfront, hilltop, or hillside. Your best memories may well surface as long afternoons, sampling each level of the three-tiered infinity pool or nursing glasses of fine wine at the exclusive beach club amidst a coconut grove.

Next to Amankila, here in the rustic East, you’ll also find Alila Manggis (www.alilahotels.com/manggis) a moderately priced hotel offering exceptional value in a tremendous location. The hotel’s extensive list of activities – from treks to snorkeling trips to visits to uninhabited nearby islands – are experiential and dutifully capture the essence of east Bali.