Florida Agenda

By RICHARD HACK

She’s naked and she’s hot, and hiding in plain sight right on Wilton Drive. We’re speaking, of course, of the Naked Grape Wine Bar, which manages to mix cozy with industrial in a welcome mat of stainless steel, plush seating and dark walls mixed with a friendly cliental that seemed to flow as couples throughout a recent Saturday night visit.

Nutritional counselor and fitness trainer Andy Kress joined me to taste our way through the Grape’s new tapas menu with features flatbread pizza, panini sandwiches and an assortment of crisp and tempting salads. But it was the cheese sampler plate ($15) that attracted Andy’s palate. Three half-servings from the extensive cheese case sounds like it should be a gourmand’s dream, but making a choice from their huge selection was hardly simple.

The first taste of  Humboldt Fog ripened goat cheese, with its layer of edible vegetable ash, combined creamy texture with a tangy overglow. A great start to a varied assortment. The cave-aged gruyere made with cow’s milk was far subtler, but no less tasty.

Perfectly creamy while still maintaining its shape. Our third sample, the  sheep’s milk manchego, the definitive Spanish cheese, had a piquant, buttery and nutty flavor, distinguishing it from the trio, which came with British biscuit crackers and was accompanied by a caramelized Vidalia onion compote.

While still on the Small Plates section of the menu, we were lured by Manny’s Lower East Side Chopped Liver ($5) that was supposed to be served with a French baguette, but instead came with saltines. Either way, Manny knows his stuff—for the thick and rich chopped liver was laced with onions and eggs and a symphony of ethnic undercurrents.

The freshly prepared lump-crab cakes were easily the best deal on the entire menu at a scant $10 for two. Served on a bed of arugula, the crab cakes featured a sun-dried tomato finishing butter that left a lingering taste of garlic, basil and oregano just behind our smiling lips.

Our ever-informative server Johnny sold us on trying a dish called Three Little Pigs ($10), which at that point in the evening was exactly how we were beginning to feel as we loosened our belts and continued to graze the way Americans increasing do these days. As it turned out, the “pigs” of the title were actually slightly-larger-than-cocktail-size wieners, snuggled in a fresh bun and decorated with a host of accessory items that gave each a regional twist.

Not surprisingly, the least inspiring and tasty was the American: with its roasted red pepper catsup and mustard relish. Far more of a standout was the Mexican: an excellent combination of corn relish, jalapeno, and chipotle mustard dressing. Hot, sweet and delicious. But the triple-crown went to the out-of-the park Greek: a baby weiner covered in feta cheese, diced cucumber, Kalamata olives with a Greek tahini dressing. All three were served were can’t-stop-eating-them blue potato chips. Yum!

As I went wondering through the bar-restaurant, chatting up customers and joining in various celebrations in progress, it was evident that the Naked Grape is a happy place. There’s a fireplace warmth to the space without a fireplace. That glow you feel is from the friendly faces and outstretched hands. Not only are you encouraged to linger here, there are scattered board games—Yahtze, Monopoly, Trivial Pursuit among them—to keep you fastened to your seats.

At the far end of Naked Grape, a retail section features jars of specialized chutneys, antipastos, jellies, relishes plus warm and cold dips, fresh from the Virginia Chutney Company in Arlington. And then, of course, there are the walls of wines—available for purchase by the bottle, glass, or two-ounce taste beginning at $2.50. What a clever way to explore the vineyard without committing half-a-paycheck in the process.

Co-owner/proprietor Caleb Ben-Avram is always in the kitchen, positioned right next to the eight-seat bar where the cute bartender Ben is a blur of activity and effervescence, while co-owner Tim Slivinski works the room.

Walk through the door at the Naked Grape and you’re family. And like family, you’ll immediately feel at home, and come back again and again.

By Cliff Dunn

Invoking the legendary 1970s and 1980s T-Dances at Fort Lauderdale’s long-dead Marlin Beach Resort, and the 1990s version at Club Caribbean Resort, The Depot Cabana Bar & Grill on Federal Highway has launched its Sunday T with a cross-promotion at the adjacent America’s Best Inn & Suites, which makes for an affordable Summer Staycation. The hotel – less than a mile from Wilton Drive and Fort Lauderdale’s beaches – is offering a $149 weekend special (Friday through Sunday night stay) when guests mention The Depot. Says Depot owner Jim Babb: “This is a great and very affordable alternative to some of the more costly choices for accommodations elsewhere in Fort Lauderdale and Wilton Manors. Instead of spending $150 to $200 a night in another establishment, you can spend a third of that and bank the difference or spend it shopping and dining – and having a great time at The Depot.”

Grape Expectations

Following the closing of The Painted Pickle delicatessen on Wilton Drive this spring, its business space was briefly occupied by the briefly open Drive Café, which marked its own swansong last month with an auction of its accoutrements (tables, chairs, food cases, et al.). The now-empty bay won’t remain long unoccupied, as the owners of The Naked Grape Wine Bar have plans to move from their current location (2039 Wilton Drive) just up the street to the 2163 spot vacated by Pickle and Café. Owners Caleb Ben-Avram and Tim Slivinski say they are looking at an August 1 opening at their new digs.

Federal Court Judges: DOMA is Bankrupt

Yet another panel of jurists has found legal flaws within the federal Defense of Marriage Act (DOMA), the 1996 law that bars federal recognition of same-sex marriage, declaring that the law is unconstitutional.

In a decision last week of the United States Bankruptcy Court for the Central District of California, Judge Thomas B. Donovan wrote: “In this court’s judgment, no legally married couple should be entitled to fewer bankruptcy rights than any other legally married couple.”

And, in an extremely rare action, 19 other judges, comprising the vast majority of the 24 judges of the Central District, also signed the ruling; the presence of the other judges’ names suggests that they would rule similarly to Donovan in their own courtrooms.

The case involved two men, Gene Douglas Balas and Carlos A. Morales, who were legally married under California’s marriage equality law. The couple wanted to file jointly for bankruptcy, but federal officials moved to dismiss their petition under DOMA. Balas and Morales requested that the court allow them to file jointly, and last week’s ruling was the result.

In his decision, the judge notably quoted a letter sent in February by U.S. Attorney General Eric Holder to members of Congress. In that letter, Holder announced that, while the Obama administration would continue to enforce DOMA, it would no longer defend the law in court. In his 26- page opinion, Judge Donovan wrote: “The Holder Letter demonstrates that DOMA cannot withstand heightened scrutiny.”

Ciao, Pasta!

One of the area’s newest eateries is hosting a getting-to-know-you party at Fort Lauderdale Beach this Saturday, June 25. Oakland Park’s Ciao Pasta & Grill is inviting everyone (and they mean everyone) to their first annual Pre-July 4 Beach Party. Co-owner Brian Allan Harris promises “a great American Summer BBQ menu.” The soiree begins at 10 a.m. and costs $20 per person, which includes the aforementioned full American BBQ meal, water, assorted Drinks, and the like. Harris & Co.’s party will be held on Fort Lauderdale Beach where the parking starts ocean side on A1A. “This is a great spot, not as crowded,” says Harris, “we should have a nice space for our group and the water is absolutely beautiful there.” Attendees are requested to bring their own coolers and ice, beach chairs, towels and sun screen.

By the Numbers

• 29,000: Approximate number of words used by William Shakespeare in his plays

• 10,000: Approximate number of words invented by Shakespeare (never previously used in any surviving English literature)

• 6,000: Approximate number of words that only appear once in Shakespeare

• 2,026: Number of words attributed to Jesus Christ in the New Testament

• 2,262: Number of times the word “You” appears in songs by The Beatles.

If you’re “Open for Business”, you can contact Business Writer and Director of Sales, Cliff Dunn with your story at Business@FloridaAgenda.com