Florida Agenda

Calgary offers Western culture up north

By JIMMY IM

Downtown Calgary (courtesy of Wikipedia.org)

Wearing a cheap, white cowboy hat, I’m with my friend Dennis at Upper Lake in Kananaskis Country just 45 minutes outside Calgary. Behind us is the commanding backdrop of the Canadian Rockies: magnificent ice-capped mountains rising at the foot of a tranquil lake and nestled against a vast blue sky.

Surrounded completely by untainted nature, I look deep into Dennis’ eyes and say: “I wish I knew how to quit you!” Dennis folds into my arms. “Dammit, Jack!” he cries and we both surrender to dramatic tears before bursting into laughter.

Childish, I know, but we couldn’t resist. After all, this was the exact film location for the unforgettable scene in Brokeback Mountain, which remains a paramount moment in gay film history.

We absorb the scenario for quite some time then head out to other prominent settings where each visit stirs moving, significant moments from the movie in our heads.

Filming Brokeback Mountain outside Calgary couldn’t have been more apt, as the city itself is known for its western (as in cowboy) culture and traditions. The largest city in the province of Alberta, Calgary (known mostly for ecotourism and winter sports) is unsurprisingly low on high rises and population (they just hit the 1 million mark). The sprawled-out, simple city can feel like tumbleweeds roll through on occasion and it doesn’t get as much attention as more popular Canadian destinations but don’t underestimate this small town—it’s got more kick than A-1 sauce and the small-town charm and Calgarian pride will win you over.

Lacking the progressive flair of Montreal or the diversity of Toronto, Calgary cultivates an identity with its rodeos and country bars, appropriately the “wild west” of Canada. Offering hundreds of events throughout the year, a western theme is usually its forte, most notably the famous Calgary Stampede, an annual summer event that attracts visitors from all over the world. Guys and gals don cowboy hats, boots and western shirts and proceed to celebrate the tradition of this stampede Mardi-Gras style but with whiskey shots and yee-has. While it gets a bit rowdy, the gay community can appreciate the annual ARGRA Canadian Rockies International Gay Rodeo (www.argra.org), which takes place at Symon’s Valley Ranch, a short drive from the downtown core. This year, more than 4,000 people attended the only gay rodeo in Canada, while 1,200 set up camp on the grounds of the ranch in RVs and trailers. Spectators watched as 100 contestants participated in a variety of events, including steer riding, goat dressing and bareback bronc. The course of the weekend also included the traditional outdoor pancake breakfast, Bud Light Barn Burner dance and awards ceremony.

While the western aspect is the most distinguished reflection of Calgarian culture, it’s not overly saturated (and often spills outside the downtown core). A subtle approach to cosmopolitan lifestyle is turning the city over, most recently with the new Hotel Arts (www.hotelarts.ca) boutique which, with a $10 million dollar renovation, transformed a former Holiday Inn into Calgary’s first designer hotel and lends a sense of progressive spirit to the streets, and the renaissance of Inglewood, Calgary’s oldest neighborhood now burgeoning with chic dining and cool shopping. 17th Avenue remains the hottest destination for trendy restaurants and lounges (including the gay-laden Ming), bars and boutiques (the ever-popular Gravity Pope shoe store stocks the trendiest designer footwear), and even cruisy coffee shops for the boys who like boys (Starbucks anyone?)

If you keep your cruising to after dark, your selection is quite limited. The gay scene in Calgary is larger than the handful of gay bars and one club can contain, thus many “mixed” bars extend the options and reflect the gay-friendly attitude of Calgary in general. New faces in the city are always welcome, so saddle up and ride em, cowboys!

Jimmy Im is a freelance travel writer based in New York City. He is one of the hosts of “Confessions of a Travel Writer” on the Travel Channel and writes regularly for top publications around the world.

In South Australia everybody knows your name

By JIMMY IM

I’m drinking a Cooper’s Light on the rooftop indoor patio of Mars Bar when a tall, hot Australian approaches me with two of his very young Asian-Australian friends. “Who are you?” Tall-guy Josh says with his thick Aussie accent, smiling, leaning into me as if hard to hear, though there’s no music (the dance club is downstairs), just chatter. “We’ve never seen you around here before.” One of his Asian friends pipes in. “Yeah. You’re hot. What are you, Vietnamese?” “Are you visiting, or are you straight?” the other friend asks. In any other circumstances, this moment would have been a little too overwhelming for me to absorb. But we are in small-town Adelaide (at the only gay bar, mind you) which means the whole city is kinda like a gay Cheers: everybody knows your name. And if they don’t, they want to. Comfortable, friendly and burgeoning with gay couples and visitors: South Australia is unarguably the most charming region on the continent. It’s fueled by an unspoiled natural environment with pockets of cosmopolitan flair, the hybrid of geology, wildlife and culture a remarkable creation.

Embracing a liberal attitude, South Australia’s leftist mentality makes virtually any attraction within its boundaries safe and gay-friendly (it was the first state in Australia to decriminalize gay sex). While it effortlessly owns panoramic landscapes, gourmet food and wine and sublime hideaways, South Australia proves its no longer “that excursion” in Australia and a worthy destination of its own.

Adelaide

With only one gay club, the scene here is by no means thriving but it’s the small, community feel that makes it truly worth a visit. The gayest time to come is November for the gay and lesbian Feast! Festival, which kicks off the week of Adelaide’s Pride march. The twoweek festival celebrates art, culture, cinema and community with more than 8,000 homos. Adelaide’s main attraction isn’t a tourist site but—believe it or not—the Central Market.

It’s actually the most visited place in all of South Australia, and considered “the center of the world in Adelaide.” All family owned shops and vendors sell everything from local spices and produce to cafes brewing strong coffee or serving “frog cake,” an iconic chocolate and cream dessert that comes in the shape of a—gasp—frog. The market is conveniently located near Gouger street, the preeminent “restaurant district” where you can find everything from authentic Asian cuisine to fresh seafood. A short tram-ride will take you to the popular Glenelg beach district, a quaint and quiet oasis by the ocean. Stop for a coffee at Zest, a bustling gay-owned and operated cafe tucked away on Sussex Street. The owner is an ex-cop (swoon!).

Barossa Valley

Winos take note: fermented grape juice doesn’t get any more divine than Barossa Valley’s stash. More than 600 grape growers are responsible for 65% of Australia’s wine export. Clean your palettes and hit more than 70 cellar doors across the region. If you want a little more than wine tasting, stop by Penfold’s winery, the largest winemaking organization in Australia. For $45, you can mix from a range of varietals to make your own wine and receive a 375 ml bottle of your best concoction. Willow’s vineyard is worth a visit to stop for some sparkling Shiraz; it’s lauded as one of the most popular in the country. Known especially for its food and wine, Barossa Valley effortlessly entrances its visitors with rolling valleys and beautiful vineyards. The landscape is so mesmerizing, visitors best experience the view from the air, whether floating in a hot-air balloon or taking a short helicopter ride.

Adelaide Hills

Still thirsty? Head over to Adelaide Hills for some more wineries, but make sure you get lost: some of the best views can be seen from driving the long, windy streets. Make sure you stop at Mount Lofty Summit. At 710 meters, it’s the highest point in South Australia, providing sublime views of the city of Adelaide and its coastline. Just a short drive is the Mount Lofty House Country Estate, a beautifully restored, gracious former mansion (now converted into a 29-suite hotel) with some panoramic views of the hills and conveniently adjacent to the Mount Lofty Botanic Garden.

Kangaroo Island

Kangaroo Island is to South Australia as safaris are to South Africa. There’s no shortage of koalas, kangaroos and wallabies and— if you’re lucky— you may encounter the exotic achidna.