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The Many Sides of Bali Part I: “New Bali”

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By PAUL RUBIO

Bali. The name alone parlays an image of tranquility, wanderlust, exoticism, and romanticism. It conjures visions of a far-off land, blessed with eternal natural beauty and time-honored culture. This island utopia, sandwiched between the Indian Ocean and the Bali Sea, captivated hoteliers more than three decades ago, who took the risk of developing property on a densely forested, volcanic sand beach in a village called Seminyak. It was difficult to predict then that, from the late seventies onward, a mad scramble for Bali’s coastline would ensue, desperately satiating the world’s growing appetite for sun-drenched bliss and cultural tourism smack in the heart of the vast Indonesian archipelago.

For village elders, modern day Bali is hardly recognizable in its highly globalized southernmost reaches. This area, dubbed “New Bali” by locals and expats alike, consists of the southern mainland and a small peninsula housing the highly popular and populated regions of Nusa Dua, Uluwatu, Jimbaran Bay, Kuta, Legian, and Seminyak. It is here where the majority of high-end tourism development continues, often delivering show-stopping flagship hotels and iconic resorts well worth the exhausting long haul. However, limiting an epic journey within “New Bali” or South Bali forgoes the essence of Southeast Asia’s island gem – “Traditional Bali,” which we’ll explore in the second and third part of this series.

Anchored by the surfer hotspot, Kuta, South Bali has evolved as the archetypal holiday destination, catering to all budgets and lifestyles. While Kuta fulfills a niche for HOT Aussie backpackers living on $20/day, neighboring Seminyak and Legian house a mix of mid-range and high-end accommodations to complement the world-class shopping, restaurant and nightlife scene that have advanced this highly touristic zone. Though not recommended as a stand-alone reason to visit Bali, all visitors invariably end up at Seminyak and Legian at some point on their journey, due to its proximity to the international airport or because they are eager to experience Indonesia’s most progressive metropolis equivalent. Big-city sophistication concentrates on this small stretch of dark volcanic sands, including obligatory sunset cocktails at the legendary and gay-friendly Ku De Ta or the worldly, rooftop SOS Supper Club, and dinner at the restaurant leading Bali’s foodie revolution, Sarong. Come late night, most of the bars, gay or otherwise, are located along Seminyak’s nightlife thoroughfare – Jalan Dyana Pura. Since the main gay club, Q Bar, closed down for repairs and has yet to set a reopening date, the gay scene tends to congregate on weekends at Bali Joe and Mixwell, with their wildly popular drag shows and campy pop music.

There’s even a loose version of a gay beach in Seminyak, referred to as Taman Ganesha Beach or Petitenget Beach or Callego Beach (near the Oberoi Hotel, in front of Callego Café). It’s not the nicest stretch of sand and you’ll hardly find more than a handful of wanderers also searching for this elusive gay beach. The main problem is that lounge chairs are prohibited on the beach; and the beach itself is dangerously rough, so there’s no reason to “hang out” on the beach more than a mere stroll or amble.

 

In general, Bali’s definitely more of a couples’ than a singles’ destination, though gay Javanese guys often make the trek here to free themselves of the conservative confines of their home island. It’s a hotspot for Asian-Western gay couples living in Asia or gay westerners experiencing SE Asia, looking for some of the world’s coolest and eclectic hotels.

Speaking of hotels, the all-suite Anantara Seminyak (online at bali.anantara.com), is ideal for a weekend jaunt immersed in “New Bali’s” young hustle, bustle, and evolving vanguard scene. The gregarious pool scene, the crowd, and the modern luxury design stand reminiscent of South Beach’s preeminent trendsetting hotels, with the added bonus of an outdoor Jacuzzi and daybed to watch Bali’s sunsets from the privacy of your own balcony. With just 59 suites and stellar staff, the Anantara Seminyak delivers a more personalized, boutique version of its mammoth party-time neighbor, the W Retreat & Spa Bali (online at whotels.com/baliseminyak).

Further afield, along the southernmost tip of the peninsula, The Banyan Tree Ungasan (banyantree.com), also flaunts an ultra-glam factor, about half an hour from the rapidly beating pulse of “New Bali.” The remarkable all-villa enclave straddles a picturesque precipice, emphasizing the perfect contemporary design blend of height, light, and space. While its sumptuous fusion of outdoors and indoors echoes a constant “wow” factor, one feature indisputably impresses the most – the glass-paneled doors opening directly onto each villa’s frangipani-fringed infinity pool.

Finally, sagacious beach lovers gravitate towards Nusa Dua on the peninsula’s east side – one of the only spots on Bali to sport luscious, golden and white, downy sands. The superlative hotel here, Amanusa (amanresorts.com), towers over the manicured gardens and forest patches, perched on a hillside that offers stunning panoramas of sparkling greens and oceanic blues. Unlike Nusa Dua’s recent cookie-cutter construction, Amanusa’s 32 spacious villas retain a distinctive indigenous flair, each temple-like structure complete with a full suite of luxury offerings, including the decadent outdoor shower and queen-sized bale, and private pool in nine suites. The quintessential relaxing “beach vacation” materializes over long, lazy days at Amanusa’s Beach Club, via the idyllic mingling of crystalline waters, impeccable service, and exclusivity.

Click to Read : The Many Sides of Bali Part II: The Rich Interior

Caribbean Blue – Grand Bahama Redux

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By PAUL RUBIO

Though mass tourism of the seventies and eighties had severed all associations between luxury and Grand Bahama, ironically the hurricanes of 2004 blew away the touristy riff raff that had become the island’s Achilles heel. In the wake of Frances and Jeanne, Grand Bahama has begun to rebuild and return to its more illustrious period circa 1958, when it rivaled Cuba as the vacation grounds for wealthy Americans.

Grand Bahama’s revival is concentrated in the West End district in a region known as Old Bahama Bay. Heavy public and private investment to the tune of 5 billion has translated into the construction of a new marina, a private airport, refurbished docks, an expansive golf course, restructured inlets, bike paths, and secluded beaches – an overall tropical utopia for luxury homes, condos, and resorts.

At the westernmost reach of the West End, Nandana resort (www.nandanaresort. com; 877.220. 0737; 212.621.0350) rises from the Caribbean blue as a palatial Thai-inspired mansion segued between Earth and sea through placid waters of the surrounding 120’ infinity pool. The architecturally inspiring oceanfront wat impresses with soaring 40’ ceilings, oversized outdoor shower lounges, Burmese teak and stone clad interiors, and a 2000 square foot air-conditioned safari tent fashioned after the Indian campgrounds at Aman-i-Khas. The resort comfortably accommodates one dozen, regularly tended to by an entourage of smiling attendants and service professionals trained in the Maldives. During mealtimes two dedicated chefs ingeniously combine Florribean flavors with Peruvian and Cuban influences for novel gastronomic experiences. At all times, the resort’s 50′ deep sea fishing yacht, 20′ tender, bikes, jet skis, motorbikes, DVD library and well-stocked bar remain at guests’ disposal.

Nevertheless, it’s the natural raw beauty of Grand Bahama combined with Nandana’s magnificence that fosters the most lasting memories. Spectacular sunsets viewed from the infinity pool, mountains of conchs on barrier islands, the reflection of enormous red and orange starfish in shallow waters, the downy sands on isolated beaches, and the ever-changing shades of blue in a single panorama – together with Nandana’s glorious infrastructure – revive a time bygone of exclusive Bahamian hideaways.

Outside of the West End, a more stripped back and subdued Grand Bahama prevails. A single artery, Queens Highway, connects the West End to Grand Bahama’s capital, Freeport. Void of most the casinos and cheese of its heyday, Freeport is now a simpler port city with a renovated pier catering to cruise ship passengers and decent dutyfree shopping. East of Freeport, another sole highway, Grand Bahama Highway, links the rest of the island. True island life east of Freeport is quiet and simple; and the beaches are plentiful. Some of the softest sands and bluest waters are found in Lucayan National Park near the island’s midpoint. Below the walking trails and the sparkling beach areas, Lucayan’s underworld gives way to six miles of caves, caverns, and tunnels.

Come nightfall, Grand Bahama’s gay nightlife is very much on the down low. So much so that the seven of us who visited never discovered the rumored gay club in Freeport. It wasn’t a big deal however. We boys (and our token straight girl) made our own fun at Nandana. In what became a nightly ritual, the hotel’s super welcoming, gayfriendly staff fed us fresh conch fritters and late night Bahamian treats while we downed late night champagne in the fabulous infinity pool.

Paul Rubio, LGBT Travel writer, has
authored numerous articles and an
award winning book Out Traveler:
South Florida. Paul can be reached
at editor@FloridaAgenda.com

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