Big City Tavern on Las Olas Blvd in Fort Lauderdale
By TIM SLIVINSKI
After enjoying a spectacularly sunny Sunday afternoon soaking up the sun and bopping to the beats at the Depot Cabana Bar’s inaugural poolside Tdance, my partner and I decided we required something a little more sedate and out of the sun for Sunday dinner. Something pulled us toward Las Olas and, as we meandered down the street, we commented on that place we always walk by but have never gone into: Big City Tavern. We decided to rectify that situation on the spot and walked in and requested a table.
Though Big City has the look and the energy of a tavern in a place like New York City, if you request to be seated in one of the oversized booths, you can sink into your own relaxing space. After ordering a martini for me and a craft beer for my partner, we realized that the sun had made us famished. Our server promptly informed us of that day’s featured crispy flatbread, and we said “bring it.” The flatbread was topped with salmon and feta cheese in a sort of variation on bagels and lox. When it arrived, we each quickly grabbed a slice and tasted. The natural saltiness of the feta played well against the tender sweetness of the salmon. The crispy crust was definitely firm enough to hold the toppings because a wimpy, limp flatbread is never a winner in my book. It did not take us long to consume each bite of its savory — sweet — salty goodness.
When it’s time to order entrees, Big City allows you many options so you can eat as light or as hearty as your appetite dictates. Feeling perhaps a need to be healthy, my partner ordered the Maryland jumbo lump crab cake from the appetizer portion of the menu along with a market greens salad. The crab cake was filled with large pieces of tender crab, and the cake itself was savory and not overly “bready” because of too much filler. He particularly liked the piquant flavor that the accompanying dill-lime tartar sauce added to the delicate flavors of the crab cake. His salad was crispy fresh, no wilted limp greens, with a light Dijon-shallot vinaigrette dressing.
Feeling the need for something a bit heartier, but also desiring seafood (maybe it was all that afternoon time near the pool), I opted for the pecan crusted snapper. I will admit in full disclosure that I am freak for nut encrusted seafood. It seems to allow the fish to remain succulent and moist while adding a crunchy texture as contrast to the tenderness of the fish. When it arrived, I was greeted by a more than ample serving whose aromas were savory, nutty and sweet. When I put my fork into the fish, it was juicy and steaming, not at all overdone. Another aspect I liked was that I was able to eat it without all the pecans falling off with each forkful.
The roasted winter vegetables that accompanied the snapper offered a nice touch of earthiness to the plate. I had no trouble joining the clean plate club that evening.
Big City Tavern offers choices in sandwiches, pizzas and pastas, as well as in beef, poultry and seafood entrees. It also offers a late night limited menu on Fridays and Saturdays for those evenings when you may have attended a show or concert and have the munchies afterwards. Outdoor seating along Las Olas is available, and Big City also offers a vibrant bar area to the left as you walk in the main door.
Service is friendly and attentive, and the booths allow you sink back and enjoy your experience. If you have walked past Big City Tavern and not yet walked in, maybe it’s time to give it a try. I know I will not be a mere “passerby” any longer!
Big City Tavern is located at 609 East Las Olas Blvd. Fort Lauderdale, FL 33301 Phone: 954-727-0307
