By PAUL RUBIO
Bali. The name alone parlays an image of tranquility, wanderlust, exoticism, and romanticism. It conjures visions of a far-off land, blessed with eternal natural beauty and time-honored culture. This island utopia, sandwiched between the Indian Ocean and the Bali Sea, captivated hoteliers more than three decades ago, who took the risk of developing property on a densely forested, volcanic sand beach in a village called Seminyak. It was difficult to predict then that, from the late seventies onward, a mad scramble for Bali’s coastline would ensue, desperately satiating the world’s growing appetite for sun-drenched bliss and cultural tourism smack in the heart of the vast Indonesian archipelago.
For village elders, modern day Bali is hardly recognizable in its highly globalized southernmost reaches. This area, dubbed “New Bali” by locals and expats alike, consists of the southern mainland and a small peninsula housing the highly popular and populated regions of Nusa Dua, Uluwatu, Jimbaran Bay, Kuta, Legian, and Seminyak. It is here where the majority of high-end tourism development continues, often delivering show-stopping flagship hotels and iconic resorts well worth the exhausting long haul. However, limiting an epic journey within “New Bali” or South Bali forgoes the essence of Southeast Asia’s island gem – “Traditional Bali,” which we’ll explore in the second and third part of this series.
Anchored by the surfer hotspot, Kuta, South Bali has evolved as the archetypal holiday destination, catering to all budgets and lifestyles. While Kuta fulfills a niche for HOT Aussie backpackers living on $20/day, neighboring Seminyak and Legian house a mix of mid-range and high-end accommodations to complement the world-class shopping, restaurant and nightlife scene that have advanced this highly touristic zone. Though not recommended as a stand-alone reason to visit Bali, all visitors invariably end up at Seminyak and Legian at some point on their journey, due to its proximity to the international airport or because they are eager to experience Indonesia’s most progressive metropolis equivalent. Big-city sophistication concentrates on this small stretch of dark volcanic sands, including obligatory sunset cocktails at the legendary and gay-friendly Ku De Ta or the worldly, rooftop SOS Supper Club, and dinner at the restaurant leading Bali’s foodie revolution, Sarong. Come late night, most of the bars, gay or otherwise, are located along Seminyak’s nightlife thoroughfare – Jalan Dyana Pura. Since the main gay club, Q Bar, closed down for repairs and has yet to set a reopening date, the gay scene tends to congregate on weekends at Bali Joe and Mixwell, with their wildly popular drag shows and campy pop music.
There’s even a loose version of a gay beach in Seminyak, referred to as Taman Ganesha Beach or Petitenget Beach or Callego Beach (near the Oberoi Hotel, in front of Callego Café). It’s not the nicest stretch of sand and you’ll hardly find more than a handful of wanderers also searching for this elusive gay beach. The main problem is that lounge chairs are prohibited on the beach; and the beach itself is dangerously rough, so there’s no reason to “hang out” on the beach more than a mere stroll or amble.
In general, Bali’s definitely more of a couples’ than a singles’ destination, though gay Javanese guys often make the trek here to free themselves of the conservative confines of their home island. It’s a hotspot for Asian-Western gay couples living in Asia or gay westerners experiencing SE Asia, looking for some of the world’s coolest and eclectic hotels.
Speaking of hotels, the all-suite Anantara Seminyak (online at bali.anantara.com), is ideal for a weekend jaunt immersed in “New Bali’s” young hustle, bustle, and evolving vanguard scene. The gregarious pool scene, the crowd, and the modern luxury design stand reminiscent of South Beach’s preeminent trendsetting hotels, with the added bonus of an outdoor Jacuzzi and daybed to watch Bali’s sunsets from the privacy of your own balcony. With just 59 suites and stellar staff, the Anantara Seminyak delivers a more personalized, boutique version of its mammoth party-time neighbor, the W Retreat & Spa Bali (online at whotels.com/baliseminyak).
Further afield, along the southernmost tip of the peninsula, The Banyan Tree Ungasan (banyantree.com), also flaunts an ultra-glam factor, about half an hour from the rapidly beating pulse of “New Bali.” The remarkable all-villa enclave straddles a picturesque precipice, emphasizing the perfect contemporary design blend of height, light, and space. While its sumptuous fusion of outdoors and indoors echoes a constant “wow” factor, one feature indisputably impresses the most – the glass-paneled doors opening directly onto each villa’s frangipani-fringed infinity pool.
Finally, sagacious beach lovers gravitate towards Nusa Dua on the peninsula’s east side – one of the only spots on Bali to sport luscious, golden and white, downy sands. The superlative hotel here, Amanusa (amanresorts.com), towers over the manicured gardens and forest patches, perched on a hillside that offers stunning panoramas of sparkling greens and oceanic blues. Unlike Nusa Dua’s recent cookie-cutter construction, Amanusa’s 32 spacious villas retain a distinctive indigenous flair, each temple-like structure complete with a full suite of luxury offerings, including the decadent outdoor shower and queen-sized bale, and private pool in nine suites. The quintessential relaxing “beach vacation” materializes over long, lazy days at Amanusa’s Beach Club, via the idyllic mingling of crystalline waters, impeccable service, and exclusivity.
Click to Read : The Many Sides of Bali Part II: The Rich Interior
