By JIMMY IM
I’m drinking a Cooper’s Light on the rooftop indoor patio of Mars Bar when a tall, hot Australian approaches me with two of his very young Asian-Australian friends. “Who are you?” Tall-guy Josh says with his thick Aussie accent, smiling, leaning into me as if hard to hear, though there’s no music (the dance club is downstairs), just chatter. “We’ve never seen you around here before.” One of his Asian friends pipes in. “Yeah. You’re hot. What are you, Vietnamese?” “Are you visiting, or are you straight?” the other friend asks. In any other circumstances, this moment would have been a little too overwhelming for me to absorb. But we are in small-town Adelaide (at the only gay bar, mind you) which means the whole city is kinda like a gay Cheers: everybody knows your name. And if they don’t, they want to. Comfortable, friendly and burgeoning with gay couples and visitors: South Australia is unarguably the most charming region on the continent. It’s fueled by an unspoiled natural environment with pockets of cosmopolitan flair, the hybrid of geology, wildlife and culture a remarkable creation. Embracing a liberal attitude, South Australia’s leftist mentality makes virtually any attraction within its boundaries safe and gay-friendly (it was the first state in Australia to decriminalize gay sex). While it effortlessly owns panoramic landscapes, gourmet food and wine and sublime hideaways, South Australia proves its no longer “that excursion” in Australia and a worthy destination of its own.
With only one gay club, the scene here is by no means thriving but it’s the small, community feel that makes it truly worth a visit. The gayest time to come is November for the gay and lesbian Feast! Festival, which kicks off the week of Adelaide’s Pride march. The twoweek festival celebrates art, culture, cinema and community with more than 8,000 homos. Adelaide’s main attraction isn’t a tourist site but—believe it or not—the Central Market. It’s actually the most visited place in all of South Australia, and considered “the center of the world in Adelaide.” All family owned shops and vendors sell everything from local spices and produce to cafes brewing strong coffee or serving “frog cake,” an iconic chocolate and cream dessert that comes in the shape of a—gasp—frog. The market is conveniently located near Gouger street, the preeminent “restaurant district” where you can find everything from authentic Asian cuisine to fresh seafood. A short tram-ride will take you to the popular Glenelg beach district, a quaint and quiet oasis by the ocean. Stop for a coffee at Zest, a bustling gay-owned and operated cafe tucked away on Sussex Street. The owner is an ex-cop (swoon!).
Winos take note: fermented grape juice doesn’t get any more divine than Barossa Valley’s stash. More than 600 grape growers are responsible for 65% of Australia’s wine export. Clean your palettes and hit more than 70 cellar doors across the region. If you want a little more than wine tasting, stop by Penfold’s winery, the largest winemaking organization in Australia. For $45, you can mix from a range of varietals to make your own wine and receive a 375 ml bottle of your best concoction. Willow’s vineyard is worth a visit to stop for some sparkling Shiraz; it’s lauded as one of the most popular in the country. Known especially for its food and wine, Barossa Valley effortlessly entrances its visitors with rolling valleys and beautiful vineyards. The landscape is so mesmerizing, visitors best experience the view from the air, whether floating in a hot-air balloon or taking a short helicopter ride.
Still thirsty? Head over to Adelaide Hills for some more wineries, but make sure you get lost: some of the best views can be seen from driving the long, windy streets. Make sure you stop at Mount Lofty Summit. At 710 meters, it’s the highest point in South Australia, providing sublime views of the city of Adelaide and its coastline. Just a short drive is the Mount Lofty House Country Estate, a beautifully restored, gracious former mansion (now converted into a 29-suite hotel) with some panoramic views of the hills and conveniently adjacent to the Mount Lofty Botanic Garden.
Kangaroo Island is to South Australia as safaris are to South Africa. There’s no shortage of koalas, kangaroos and wallabies and— if you’re lucky— you may encounter the exotic achidna.
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