By ROBERT ELIAS DEATON
When Philadelphia was nicknamed the City of Brotherly Love, they were originally speaking of Quakers, not gays. However, all that has changed within the past six years as this town of the Liberty Bell, Independence Hall, and the Betsy Ross House has evolved into a rather gay-hip collection of clubs, B&Bs, restaurants, and gyms.
To keep your history straight and your nightlife gay, the first thing you need to know about Philly is that many of the yellow-brick roads here are cobblestone, particularly in the historical district located in the Olde City, a square mile officially bordered by Race, South, Sixth, and Front Streets—or the Delaware River if you’re reading your guide map and walk too far East.
All the historical must-sees can easily be toured during a one-day outing, with locals dressed as town criers and the like to guide you down the appropriate alleys. Do not miss checking out this part of town, for there is something very humbling and essential in discovering the Birthplace of America for yourself. You don’t have to be gay to be proud in this section of town.
For the real fun, travel toward Washington Square West, home to the gayborhood and, as you might expect, the nightlife— ranging from cultured to sleazy and all within easy walking distance. This is particularly true if you lodge the bod in a place called the Independent Hotel (1234 Locust St., 215-772-1440), a 24- room boutique hotel which is not only on the National Register of Historical Places, it’s been given a total fluff-and-fold for comfort and style with rooms starting at $239.
The fitness center of choice is located nearby. More than just a workout gem, the 12th Street Gym (204 S 12th St., 215-985-4092) is 60,000 square feet of cruisy inspiration, with all the expected equipment and more. For tips on form, check in with baby Joe Burke, our recommended personal trainer.
For good local eats and plenty of it, try Lolita (106 S 13th St., 215-546-7100), owned by dolls and partners Valerie Safran and Marcie Turney. The ladies know their business and pack this place right out the front door. It’s a bring-your-own-tequila kinda place. They’ll supply the pitcher of fresh-squeezed margarita mixes (watermelon and wild mint) and you supply the hootch, which is available a block away at Premium Collection Wine & Spirits (1218 Chestnut St., 215-560–4380).
The girls also own Bindi (105 S 13th St., 215- 922-6061), the Indian restaurant across the street, as well as the one-stop-convenience shop Grocery and homewares store Open House next door.
After you roll out with full bellies and a smile on your lips, a wonderful local place to peoplewatch and experience Philly at its most literate is Giovanni’s Room (345 S 12th St., 215-923- 2960), the oldest gay bookstore in the country.
This particular place has the distinction of having been a gay and lesbian refuge during a time when the LGBT community was not so welcome in the Birthplace of America. Even if it didn’t have 7,000 books on its shelves— many of which you’ll find nowhere else—this bookstore is alive with our history. Get kissed by one of the staff—which, quite frankly is not so tough—and you’ll continue a love which began with Walt Whitman and was passed on to Edward Carpenter to E.M. Forster to Allen Ginsberg, then to Bern Boyle, one of the founders of Giovanni’s Room.
Next week, we’ll give you the inside scoop on the real Philly nightlife, and the basement you won’t want to miss.
READ PART 2 HERE: PHILADELPHIA II -Betsy Ross Would Be Pleased
Robert Elias Deaton is a world-traveling epicure who enjoys the finer things in life.
