By ROBERT ELIAS DEATON

It is tough being gay in Moscow. Up until 1993, homosexuality was deemed a crime in Russia; and it was only thirteen years ago that it was removed from a list of mental illnesses. As the world at large has embraced tolerance, and is increasingly accepting same-sex marriage, Russia has moved in the opposite direction, sending gays underground to meet and greet.

Attempts to organize Gay Pride parades in Moscow have been labeled “satanic” and met with police brutality. Last week, some 400 miles away, Saint Petersburg enacted a law that makes it illegal for anyone to disseminate “homosexual propaganda” among minors, or to suggest that homosexual relations are a normal form of human interaction on a par with heterosexual relations. Moscow has a similar law on the table.

Even so, this city of 11,000,000 people has a wealth of historical sites and attractions that are must-see stops should you ever make it to the Russian capital. You will need a visa to visit Moscow, or any other place in Russia. Your hotel can expedite these arrangements. If the sugar daddy recently cashed in his Apple stock or made a killing in Google, choose the Ritz Carlton Moscow (Tverskaya Street 3). Among the features of this 11-story architectural monument are a fully functioning spa including indoor pool, and just-hip-enough rooftop lounge called O2. You’ll feel right at home, instantly.

If money is tight, consider the Petrovka Loft Hotel (Petrovka 17/2, 41), housed in a Stalinesque building that once served as communal apartments in the old days. A complete gutting and remodeling changed all that a few years back, leaving a dozen low-budget yet elegantly designed private rooms. Both places are near Red Square (Red Square, 1), Saint Basil’s Cathedral (Red Square, 4) and close by the Bolshoi Ballet (Teatralnaya pl 1), now in its 236th season—tourist no-fail-zones all.

For art, we highly recommend the Garage Center for Contemporary Culture (19A Obraztsova Street; 7-495- 645-0520; garageccc.com/eng) where large modern works of art have been assembled in what was a former bus depot designed by the Constructivist architect Konstantin Melnikov in the 20s.

There are 96 parks in the city (as well as 18 public gardens), so there is no shortage of green space, which becomes multi-colored in the spring and summer.

Our favorite is the Central Park of Culture and Leisure, popularly known as Gorky Park (on the bank of the Moskva, just southwest of the city center). Once the site of aging amusement rides and fast-food stands, Central Park of Culture and Leisure has been transformed in the past year and become the place to go for outdoor aerobics, yoga, and all things physical— including roller and ice skating. It’s the perfect spot to see Russian men, straight and gay, in various degrees of undress. Remember: look but don’t touch.

Novoslobodskaya

Do not miss the Moscow Metro. It is not only the perfect way to get from place to place, but its stations also provide a quick tour of marble, crystal and limestone craftsmanship. On the Ring Line, you’ll be amazed at the Novoslobodskaya and Komsomolskaya stops. On the Arbatsko-Pokrovskaya Line, don’t miss the Park Pobedy station—the world’s deepest, buried 308 feet underground and with the longest escalator in town.

Now if we could just get the Russians to lighten up on the anti-gay rules. The vodka wouldn’t taste any better, but all those gymnastic and ballet stars certainly would! P.S. Goluboi, the Russian word for “blue,” also translates as “gay.” Remember where you heard if first.