By RICHARD DAVID CHAMBERLAIN
2045 Wilton Drive
Wilton Manors, FL 33305
954-990-6282
There’s something new happening on Wilton Drive in Wilton Manors. Already, we can hear you saying “Yea, yea, yea… isn’t there always?” And, of course, you’re right. In this case, however, we’re talking great food and plenty of it at the new Mexican joint Pinché Taqueria—which in Spanish means something like “kitchen boy’s taco bar.” The name came from the original Pinché, which was on a dusty side street in Tijuana, Mexico, where workers could pick up inexpensive tacos, burritos and quesadillas.
When owner Jeff Chartier packed the kitchen supplies, the groceries, and the Mexicans in the trunk of a bus and brought them across the border and up to his first two Taqueria’s in Manhattan, his goal was to make his taco bars the most authentic in town. Sweet Stephanie Lee continues the theme running the newest outlet of the Mexican chain, adding her own touch of Florida heat in the process.
The meats are butchered on the premises, the organic groceries still shipped in from South of the Border, the mesquite grill flame roasts meats, corns and peppers to perfection in an atmosphere that can best be described as “hold on to your stool seat; there’s a new game in town.”
As you might expect from a taqueria, there’s an array of tacos on the menu, including a seasoned chicken Taco de Pollo Asada ($2.95); a battered fried or grilled mahi-mahi Taco de Pescado ($3.95), served with shredded cabbage and a delicious cilantro dressing; spitgrilled pork Taco al Pastor ($2.95), or the even more tender braised grilled pork Taco de Carnitas ($2.95); and the traditional stand-by Taco de Carne Asada ($2.95), made with grilled steak.
The most popular items on the menu, as confirmed by our oh-so-personable waiter Johnny (we compared abs; mine won), were Carnitas Michoacanas ($12.95) and Arrachera Steak ($13.95). The carnitas platter was a healthy serving of tender pork arranged art-house perfect on several tortillas with rice and beans, topped with a mystery broth that was aromatic enough to bring neighborhood cats purring, and a delicious piece of corn-on-the-cob, labeled Elote on the side. It’s grilled on the fire and seasoned with salt, crumbly cotija anejo cheese, butter and mayo (so good that it’s sold by itself at $3.50). The steak is a masterwork of thinly sliced skirt steak that’s been marinated within an inch of its life in tequila and garlic. The moist and flavorful end result is far too delicious to be thought of as pure Mexican, but you’ll clean your plate and that of your neighbors.
Our favorite ensalada on the menu is a burst of freshness called Tortilla Lime Salad ($11.95) which normally comes on soft tortillas but we special ordered the dish in a crispy tortilla bowl. Overflowing with shrimp, beans, tomatoes, fresh sliced peppers, corn, onions, the entire entrée is topped with tortilla strips, making it more an event than a mere dish.
Though you can check it out now, the Grand Opening of Pinché Taqueria is on Wednesday, March 28 at which point the restaurant is certain to have its few rough edges smoothed to a spit-shine. The margaritas are too weak and too expensive in a town where the $3.00 margarita is standard. They have no chunky pico de gallo salsa for the delicious freshly made chips, preferring to use a flavorful but thin variation. And they have no option of crispy shell tacos—only soft tortillas, which may be authentic Mexican, but, hello, this is Florida.
But these are small issues compared with the main theme—filler-up food with fun, fun servers. The manager’s name is Josh. Tell him Florida Agenda sent you!
