By RICHARD HACK

She’s naked and she’s hot, and hiding in plain sight right on Wilton Drive. We’re speaking, of course, of the Naked Grape Wine Bar, which manages to mix cozy with industrial in a welcome mat of stainless steel, plush seating and dark walls mixed with a friendly cliental that seemed to flow as couples throughout a recent Saturday night visit.

Nutritional counselor and fitness trainer Andy Kress joined me to taste our way through the Grape’s new tapas menu with features flatbread pizza, panini sandwiches and an assortment of crisp and tempting salads. But it was the cheese sampler plate ($15) that attracted Andy’s palate. Three half-servings from the extensive cheese case sounds like it should be a gourmand’s dream, but making a choice from their huge selection was hardly simple.

The first taste of  Humboldt Fog ripened goat cheese, with its layer of edible vegetable ash, combined creamy texture with a tangy overglow. A great start to a varied assortment. The cave-aged gruyere made with cow’s milk was far subtler, but no less tasty.

Perfectly creamy while still maintaining its shape. Our third sample, the  sheep’s milk manchego, the definitive Spanish cheese, had a piquant, buttery and nutty flavor, distinguishing it from the trio, which came with British biscuit crackers and was accompanied by a caramelized Vidalia onion compote.

While still on the Small Plates section of the menu, we were lured by Manny’s Lower East Side Chopped Liver ($5) that was supposed to be served with a French baguette, but instead came with saltines. Either way, Manny knows his stuff—for the thick and rich chopped liver was laced with onions and eggs and a symphony of ethnic undercurrents.

The freshly prepared lump-crab cakes were easily the best deal on the entire menu at a scant $10 for two. Served on a bed of arugula, the crab cakes featured a sun-dried tomato finishing butter that left a lingering taste of garlic, basil and oregano just behind our smiling lips.

Our ever-informative server Johnny sold us on trying a dish called Three Little Pigs ($10), which at that point in the evening was exactly how we were beginning to feel as we loosened our belts and continued to graze the way Americans increasing do these days. As it turned out, the “pigs” of the title were actually slightly-larger-than-cocktail-size wieners, snuggled in a fresh bun and decorated with a host of accessory items that gave each a regional twist.

Not surprisingly, the least inspiring and tasty was the American: with its roasted red pepper catsup and mustard relish. Far more of a standout was the Mexican: an excellent combination of corn relish, jalapeno, and chipotle mustard dressing. Hot, sweet and delicious. But the triple-crown went to the out-of-the park Greek: a baby weiner covered in feta cheese, diced cucumber, Kalamata olives with a Greek tahini dressing. All three were served were can’t-stop-eating-them blue potato chips. Yum!

As I went wondering through the bar-restaurant, chatting up customers and joining in various celebrations in progress, it was evident that the Naked Grape is a happy place. There’s a fireplace warmth to the space without a fireplace. That glow you feel is from the friendly faces and outstretched hands. Not only are you encouraged to linger here, there are scattered board games—Yahtze, Monopoly, Trivial Pursuit among them—to keep you fastened to your seats.

At the far end of Naked Grape, a retail section features jars of specialized chutneys, antipastos, jellies, relishes plus warm and cold dips, fresh from the Virginia Chutney Company in Arlington. And then, of course, there are the walls of wines—available for purchase by the bottle, glass, or two-ounce taste beginning at $2.50. What a clever way to explore the vineyard without committing half-a-paycheck in the process.

Co-owner/proprietor Caleb Ben-Avram is always in the kitchen, positioned right next to the eight-seat bar where the cute bartender Ben is a blur of activity and effervescence, while co-owner Tim Slivinski works the room.

Walk through the door at the Naked Grape and you’re family. And like family, you’ll immediately feel at home, and come back again and again.