By TIM SLIVINSKI
Coconuts Waterside Grill
429 Seabreeze Ave., Ft. Lauderdale, FL
954-525-2421
On a recent balmy evening with a friend visiting from Brooklyn, where it has already tumbled down to thirty degrees, we found ourselves heading to Coconuts. He wanted to maximize his outdoor time before returning north, so an al fresco dinner on the Intracoastal held great appeal for him. The fact that we could eat waterside just sweetened the idea. Coconuts now offers valet parking, so you no longer have to circle its small but crowded lot looking for a space. Just let the valet do it!
We were shown to a table on the lower deck directly on the Intracoastal, and settled in for a relaxing evening looking at the water, the stars in the sky, and getting caught up. It was a Tuesday evening, but the entire place was buzzing with conversation as it was quite crowded. On Monday and Tuesday evenings, Coconuts offers 50% off all bottles on their wine list, a deal that is difficult to pass up.
Even better, the wine list carries some unusual varietals and labels, giving diners the option to order something beyond the usual suspects on most restaurant wine lists.
In keeping with the outdoorsy feel that we were enjoying, my friend and I ordered a bottle of Whispering Angel Rosé from Provence. It is on the list at $28.00 a bottle, so it’s a steal at 50% off. It’s a light, slightly dry Rosé with a bit of fruit, not at all sweet; light, crisp, and refreshing. Jason, our friendly server, brought us a chiller, and informed us of that night’s featured appetizers.
We decided to share Coconuts famous heirloom tomato salad ($15.00), as Jason informed us that it would be large enough to split and that it was the restaurant’s biggest appetizer seller. When it arrived, we could see why. Beautiful, yellow, red, and purple heirloom tomatoes are tossed with a light vinaigrette dressing and crumbles of blue cheese, topped with crispy croutons. Each tomato was bursting with juicy goodness, tasting like the tomatoes you could grow in your own garden. The dressing was piquant and tangy, and the salad was not overly dressed. We enjoyed each forkful as the salad quickly disappeared.
As we savored the wine and the breeze, Jason returned to go over dinner features. Coconuts is a place where it is imperative to listen to your server go over the features. The kitchen turns out interesting, unique, flavorful dishes that always delight me every time I venture to try something new. This night, however, the paella ($28.00) cooking on the outdoor deck under the watchful eye of a chef caught my friend’s attention. This savory and hearty combination of seafood, sausage, and chicken in saffron rice was calling his name. When it arrived, he swore he would never eat it all, as the portion is very generous. Wrong! His plate was clean. He said the flavors of all the ingredients were well-married, with no one item overpowering the others. It had simmered and cooked to perfection, offering a meld of savory, spicy flavors.
I, on the other hand, had my heart set on one of my favorite entrées at Coconuts: the Barbecued Back Ribs ($22.00). I am not a rib eater, but I fell in love with them long ago when coaxed by a friend to try one rib from her order. I was hooked – immediately. I do not order ribs in any other restaurant, but I find myself craving Coconuts version of this eat-with-your-fingers dish. They are “fall off the bone” tender in a BBQ sauce that combines just the right amount of tang, heat, and sweetness, without letting any one of them take over. I dove into my entrée, also thinking that a portion would go home for lunch the next day. They never made it. I ordered them with a side of mac ‘n cheese, which was very cheesy (in a good way) and a side of roasted cauliflower, my nod to healthy eating.
The cauliflower was actually delicious, as roasting it brings out a flavor profile in the vegetable that no other preparation can match.
As we enjoyed the remaining wine in our bottle, I realized why Coconuts beckons me to return so often. It is a comfortable outdoor venue in a beautiful setting that serves amazingly delicious food in an unpretentious and unfussy way. The wait staff is always friendly and knowledgeable of their menu’s food. It is a place that is dog-friendly, and the sight of so many people relaxing and enjoying themselves is calming. Coconuts’ motto is “be nice.” They are very nice and expect the same from their patrons. Somehow, I can’t imagine not being nice at a place that makes dining do delicious and comfortable.