My partner Vero is French, but her grandmother was Italian, and like all Italian “mamas,” she ruled over the roost. Tiramisu is the dessert she would always bring to the table after the leg of lamb à la Provençale we had every Sunday. She taught me to make this one, and it’s really easy ‘cause you don’t actually bake this. It’s simply layers of coffee-soaked biscuits and a sweet mixture of mascarpone cheese, eggs and sugar. Cocoa powder is sifted on top (and sometimes between the layers) for the garnish and it’s also a bitter counterpoint to the sweetened cheese mixture.

To prepare the biscuit layer, “Boudoirs” (the light, finger-sized sponge cakes, you call ladyfingers here in the States) are soaked in espresso or strong coffee, often with an addition of flavorful liquor such as sweet Marsala wine or dark rum.

Loads of variations for tiramisu exist. Some chefs use sponge cake or yeasted breads, like panettone, in place of ladyfingers. Other liquors are often used instead of the traditional Marsala wine in both the coffee and the cheese mixture, including dark rum, Madeira, port, brandy and cognac. I have even experimented with Baileys® Irish Cream. So you can choose, and as I always say, “you are the chef.”

• 3 large eggs, with yolks and whites
separated
• 1/2 cup sugar
• 8 ounces mascarpone
• 20 Ladyfingers
• 1 cup of espresso or strong coffee

• 1 tablespoon dark rum
• 2 tablespoons of cognac or brandy
• 1/8 cup of cocoa
• Shaved chocolate

Combine 3 egg yolks, 1 tablespoon of coffee, sugar, and cognac in a large mixing bowl. Beat for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the mascarpone and beat 3 to 5 minutes until the consistency is smooth. In another bowl, combine the 3 remaining egg whites and a pinch of sugar.

Beat like mad until mixture forms stiff peaks, and then gently fold into the mascarpone mixture. Pour rest of the coffee into a “dipping” dish, with the rum and dip each ladyfinger, and layer them on the bottom of a serving dish. Spread 1/3 of mascarpone mixture over that and sprinkle with cocoa. Continue layering and finish with a mascarpone layer. Sprinkle with the shaved chocolate and refrigerate 1 hour before serving.

Jean Doherty is the Chef and Owner of Le Patio Restaurant in Wilton Manors (954) 530-4641