Southeast Asia’s most illustrious ambassador
Photo: Authors Lounge at Mandarin Oriental Bangkok Courtesy Paul Rubio
By Paul Rubio
On the upper lines of the world’s greatest bucket lists, few destinations garner the unanimous esteem of Southeast Asia’s most illustrious ambassador, Bangkok. The East’s seductive temptress has charmed all who’ve met her and left them wanting more. The main artery of Bangkok, the Chao Phraya River, glistens with the gold sparkle of historic royal temples, unveiling a fast-flowing reflection pond in this frenetic bastion of spirituality. The streets teem with an urban pulse, a splendidly delightful chaos that rages on 24 hours a day. The sights, smells, tastes and sounds of Bangkok awaken and enlighten the senses with vast, foreign offerings. In recent times, modern architects and designers have made the city their muse, constructing funky rooftop bars above the clouds, and rivaling the contemporary vanguard exteriors with artsy and edgy interiors. Indeed, hotels like the skyscraping, minimalist chic Metropolitan Bangkok (+66 (2) 625 3333, www.metropolitan .bangkok.como.bz) have transformed the city landscape.
Nevertheless, it’s the city’s classic landmarks that engender the most unabashed global reverence. Year after year, the Mandarin Oriental Bangkok (+66 (2) 659 9000, www.mandarinoriental.com/bangkok) resurfaces as Earth’s most outstanding hotel, an accolade printed in magazines the world over, an honor relentlessly legitimized by word of mouth in social circles.
The historic Oriental hotel has evolved from a modest 50-room hotel circa 1876 to a sprawling, ultra-luxurious enclave. In the global capital of service excellence, Mandarin’s staff imparts the innate, genuine hospitality of legends. From the graceful elevator attendant who never forgets a guest’s floor number to the delicate “Sawadee Krup” and “Sawadee Ka” greetings at every turn, the VIP t r e at m e n t extends to each and every patron. The lavishly a p p o i n t e d rooms and stunning river views have served as an inspiration for several of the world’s most famous authors. The hotel pays homage to their literary genius in the form of personality driven Authors Suites, the creatively driven Author’s Lounge, and reflective quotation cards offered during turn down service.
The Mandarin Oriental Bangkok has perfected the design and execution of its individually exalted venues, boasting the country’s finest Thai, French, and Chinese restaurants, most celebrated tea saloon, and most picturesque common areas. While Le Normandie flaunts the best of French gastronomy, Sala Rim Naam honors Thailand through a divine showcase of bountiful native delicacies. The stylish V e r a n d a h Lounge unveils a world of deep thoughts, on the edge of the majestic Chao Phraya River. The hotel’s house boats cross the river several times per hour linking the hotel’s western riverside amenities like the Spa, gym, and Sala Rim Naam with its principal structures and outlets. The short journey on these traditional wooden Thai boats plays out like an intoxicating Disney ride, inducing a childlike sense of excitement and adventure with each crossing.
The River connects with endless series of labyrinth canals in every which direction. An hour east of Bangkok this water bound maze turns into pockets of floating markets, some authentic, some tourist traps. The difference – real floating markets offer every day consumer goods for the Thai people, tourist traps are ripe with waterfront souvenirs and trinket shops. The most popular one, Damnoen Saduak (Klong Lat Phli) is the least genuine. Others like, Bang Khu Wiang, Taling Chan, and Tha Kha reveal a fascinating force of the Thai economy but operate on real market hours, like 4am to 7am, weekends only, or in accordance with the Thai lunar calendar. Back on land, the splendid insanity of Samut Songkhram or Maeklong Railway Market is a photographer’s dream. From still squirming catfish to mounds of hairy rhambutans and dirtcheap frog skewers, this market exposes the pulsating underbelly of Thailand’s rural economy. With the market’s main thoroughfare on and along active rail tracks, the real pandemonium sets in when a distant train horn mandates vendors push their goods to either side of the tracks to avoid catastrophe! As the train passes through, it skims the stalls, the products, and even the patrons, leaving tourists in a state of disbelief (though vendors barely blink)!
Beyond markets, temples, and blatant pampering, Bangkok is also famous for its irresistible cuisine and awesome gay nightlife. Far off the beaten path, Café Ice (www.cafeicethailand.com) triples as a restaurant, art studio, and a functioning home for the mastermind chef, “Ice.” An exceptional combo of French and Thai food, Cafe Ice is a gastronomic tour de force in an innovative, intimate setting. After dinnertime, Silom Soi 2 and Silom Soi 4 teem with dozens of bars, clubs, and pubs, balancing a fair mix of frisky Thai guys and party-going foreigners. With most of the fun happening on the street, it’s hard to miss out on the early evening action. Come late night, gay life converges at DJ Station (www.dj-station.com) for the world famous shows of Bangkok’s remarkable gender illusionists. The queens of DJ station take to the stage at 11:30pm nightly, re-defining Christian Serriano’s term, “Tranny fierce!” The outrageous costumes, predictable choreography, high energy, uncanny female semblance, and the performers’ ability to “lip-synch for [their] lives” without understanding a single word is priceless!
Paul Rubio, LGBT Travel writer, has authored numerous articles and an award winning book Out Traveler: South Florida. Paul can be reached at editor@FloridaAgenda.com
